Battery troubles or something else? (1 Viewer)

[Kansas Scott]

I have a 2015 LC with a Slee installed IBS system with a second battery.

This morning when I opened the door, the interior lights came on. I pushed the start button and all the power dropped. I popped the hood to check the battery terminals. They were on tight.

I linked the batteries using the IBS controller and the vehicle started. All the onboard electronics had reset itself. I drove ~20 miles to work. After I turned off the vehicle, I checked to see that the batteries were no longer linked. I then started the vehicle without issue.

After work, I went to start the vehicle and what happen this morning, happen again.

Any thoughts on what is wrong?

Scott in Kansas

 

[ekberger]

Do you have AGM batteries installed? I have some experience using AGM batteries in various vehicles and I find, and have been told by others more knowledgeable than me that they should be charged with a "smart charger" from time to time.

When Slee installed my system they put in Interstate AGM's. I hook them up to a smart charger, e.g., Ctek in my case and make sure they get a full charge. When I do this I separate each one so that there is no parasitic drain by either. Don't know if this is your case or not, however AGM's need to be treated differently than wet cells.

 

[Sandroad]

I won't be the only one to note that a tight battery connection can still be bad. Double check those for a good connection, not just a tight one. I also won't be the first to say that early battery failures are much too common. It's worth testing the battery, but it may also be worth just eliminating that variable immediately and replacing it. There have been too many cuss words invented and too much hair pulled out chasing everything but the battery for electrical issues when in fact it was the battery.

Oh, and @ekberger may be on to something, at least with certain brands of AGM batteries (not sure which, other than maybe Odyssey).

 

[uclafan]

Do you have AGM batteries installed? I have some experience using AGM batteries in various vehicles and I find, and have been told by others more knowledgeable than me that they should be charged with a "smart charger" from time to time.

When Slee installed my system they put in Interstate AGM's. I hook them up to a smart charger, e.g., Ctek in my case and make sure they get a full charge. When I do this I separate each one so that there is no parasitic drain by either. Don't know if this is your case or not, however AGM's need to be treated differently than wet cells.

I don't have a dual battery system, but do have a Slee battery bracket with the military grade terminals with the Interstate 31 AGM type, and was just curious whether the issue that @Kansas Scott mentioned was due to the dual battery configuration, or to the AGM battery? I'm not sure that I understand the comment about having the AGM battery being charged by a "smart charger" from time to time, is this only necessary if it's a part of a dual battery system? There was a post on here not too long ago by a few owners experiencing battery drain potentially due to the use of the Slee military grade terminals, I think the cause was attributed to the use of dissimilar metals on the connectors. Not sure if this was ever verified.

 

[spressomon]

I am not familiar with the IBS battery isolator system; but this isn't the first time I've read about problems with this brand/type.

It sounds like you either have a failing battery or an unusually high parasitic drain or a bad isolator. Either way, get yourself a multimeter (about $25) and find out what the voltage is of both batteries (static, engine off) when the problem presents itself. The multimeter will be useful to you downstream at some point too.

It would be a good idea to also check the output voltage of the alternator on both sides of the isolator to be certain ~14v is getting to each battery. With the engine running check the voltage of each battery. You should see ~14v at each.

Then have the low voltage battery load tested at your local auto parts store. A few simple diagnostic tests will lead you to the culprit.

 

[sleeoffroad]

There was a post on here not too long ago by a few owners experiencing battery drain potentially due to the use of the Slee military grade terminals, I think the cause was attributed to the use of dissimilar metals on the connectors. Not sure if this was ever verified.

People reported high resistance between the terminal extenders and battery terminals we supply with our group 31 kit. We measured new components and when tightened down the resistance over that interface was negligible. We also looked at installations that we had on trucks that has been installed for some time and did not see any corrosion or any issues. Not saying it could not happen, but the only mention I have seen on this has been on the forum. Never had a call to the shop regarding that.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

People reported high resistance between the terminal extenders and battery terminals we supply with our group 31 kit. We measured new components and when tightened down the resistance over that interface was negligible. We also looked at installations that we had on trucks that has been installed for some time and did not see any corrosion or any issues. Not saying it could not happen, but the only mention I have seen on this has been on the forum. Never had a call to the shop regarding that.

I’ll add an unbiased observation with @sleeoffroad battery terminals. I don’t have their 31 group battery kit, but I do have their terminal adapters and checked for resistance also.

Pretty much none, no issues with them, they are simply aluminum that moves power nicely. I run a fridge off a single battery and have the proper charging profile for an AGM battery, so lots of energy being moved. And Slee’s battery terminals have performed flawlessly.

 

[uclafan]

I’ll add an unbiased observation with @sleeoffroad battery terminals. I don’t have their 31 group battery kit, but I do have their terminal adapters and checked for resistance also.

Pretty much none, no issues with them, they are simply aluminum that moves power nicely. I run a fridge off a single battery and have the proper charging profile for an AGM battery, so lots of energy being moved. And Slee’s battery terminals have performed flawlessly.

Christo/Rob - thanks for the clarification, good to confirm that the resistance as suggested in other posts is not an issue.

 

[kevinfoutch]

I agree with the positive comments on Slee's terminal upgrade kit. On the other thread I had posted that I had an issue with the battery itself. That was a fluke and covered under warranty, but since that incident I've been monitoring all key connections and the terminals have always been spot on. (and the new battery is performing flawlessly)

 

[9780LC]

I had this very thing happen to me. I have the IBS system with dual Odyssey AGM's. My guess is the problem the OP experienced is that the alternator is not charging his batteries at a high enough voltage, for the short amount of time he's driving the vehicle. AGM's like 14.4 to 14.8v when charging. The alternator is not providing that. The alternator at best, when cold, is putting out about 14.2v. When the alternator gets hot, does not take long, the charging voltage can drop below 13v. Over time, the main battery is getting charged less and less since the IBS system links both the batteries once the charging voltage on the main battery reaches 13.1v. It will take a long time, a long drive, to fully charge both batteries up to a full charge of around 12.84 volts each. In my case, I have witnessed the 200 not start where the main battery voltage was 12.5v. Battery voltages are for the Odyssey AGM's since this is what I have researched. There is help for this alternator under charging situation. You can buy a diode from Australia and have it in 4 days that replaces the alt-s fuse that tricks the alternator into putting out a higher voltage.....@.5v more. It's not exactly high enough for me but it has provided better charging results from short drives. I know all this because I obsessed over it for a week!

 

[TonyP]

I had this very thing happen to me. I have the IBS system with dual Odyssey AGM's. My guess is the problem the OP experienced is that the alternator is not charging his batteries at a high enough voltage, for the short amount of time he's driving the vehicle. AGM's like 14.4 to 14.8v when charging. The alternator is not providing that. The alternator at best, when cold, is putting out about 14.2v. When the alternator gets hot, does not take long, the charging voltage can drop below 13v. Over time, the main battery is getting charged less and less since the IBS system links both the batteries once the charging voltage on the main battery reaches 13.1v. It will take a long time, a long drive, to fully charge both batteries up to a full charge of around 12.84 volts each. In my case, I have witnessed the 200 not start where the main battery voltage was 12.5v. Battery voltages are for the Odyssey AGM's since this is what I have researched. There is help for this alternator under charging situation. You can buy a diode from Australia and have it in 4 days that replaces the alt-s fuse that tricks the alternator into putting out a higher voltage.....@.5v more. It's not exactly high enough for me but it has provided better charging results from short drives. I know all this because I obsessed over it for a week!

This guy speaks the truth.

I ordered my diode from the link below, in the US. Not cheap considering what you get but it fixed my low alternator output issue. Though I still plug in my inverter/charger to top the batteries off before camping.

Dirty Parts

 

[9780LC]

This guy speaks the truth.

I ordered my diode from the link below, in the US. Not cheap considering what you get but it fixed my low alternator output issue. Though I still plug in my inverter/charger to top the batteries off before camping.

Dirty Parts

Me too.... and once every 2 weeks

 

[Kansas Scott]

The battery is the Interstate 31P-AGM7. Eight or nine days ago I put the battery on the charger overnight and did not experience any further issues... until yesterday.

The same things happen when I tried to start the vehicle after work: the vehicle would not start, I hit the "auto" button on the IBS and was able to start. When I got home, the IBS volt meter for the Main battery showed no charge. I checked it with my VOM and it showed 12.6 volts. This morning I check again and it had dropped to 5.4 volts.

I am going to go ahead and get a new battery. I also ordered the recommended diode replacement. With the new battery, it sounds like I need to get into a routine of putting the battery on an AGM charger once a month. Does anyone have a recommendation for a AGM charger? I have a IOTA DLS-45/IQ4 12 VOLT 45 AMP 4 STAGE AUTOMATIC SMART BATTERY CHARGER that I use to charge my travel trailer batteries (2x Trojan T-105). Should that do the trick or does someone recommend a better charger for these type of AGM batteries?

I really appreciate everyones help - thank you!

Kansas Scott
2015 LC

 

[ekberger]

CTEK 7002 charger

 

[9780LC]

After reading the specifications for your charger, I believe it will work for your needs.

In the q&a section from the link.........puts out 14.8 during bulk charging and 13.6 float stage

I'd recommend charging each battery separately.....not linked through the IBS.

 

[Markuson]

I have a 2015 LC with a Slee installed IBS system with a second battery.

This morning when I opened the door, the interior lights came on. I pushed the start button and all the power dropped. I popped the hood to check the battery terminals. They were on tight.

I linked the batteries using the IBS controller and the vehicle started. All the onboard electronics had reset itself. I drove ~20 miles to work. After I turned off the vehicle, I checked to see that the batteries were no longer linked. I then started the vehicle without issue.

After work, I went to start the vehicle and what happen this morning, happen again.

Any thoughts on what is wrong?

Scott in Kansas

I have had nearly identical issues with my 31P AGM7 in the last week.
Took it to Interstate... they tested the battery, and it came back as BAD. They guessed perhaps an internal short.


The problem I had in addition, though, was after the truck sat for several hours, the 2nd battery would also be drained to about half voltage unless I physically disconnected the 2nd battery. If disconnected, it would hold full charge, but if left connected, it would severely drain. This left me to wonder if the system was keeping the two linked after shut-off, so that the bad main was draining the good 2nd via a continuous link. I don't know if that is what is happening, but if a bad battery stayed linked, it would make sense that the 2nd battery would be drained.

I'm wondering if Interstate may have had a bad batch of 31P AGM7 batteries... But the second question is whether batteries are remaining linked somehow after shutdown. It's a very rare battery (rarely stocked) so I'm thinking they are not made in large production runs. Perhaps we both got lemon batteries?

Question for you: Are you seeing your second battery drained when you return to your truck after work and its been sitting in the lot for 7 or 8 hours? If so...that would be helpful to know as I try to track down what's going on.

 

[Kansas Scott]

Question for you: Are you seeing your second battery drained when you return to your truck after work and its been sitting in the lot for 7 or 8 hours? If so...that would be helpful to know as I try to track down what's going on.

No - the aux battery (an Interstate AGM K5(?)) has been holding its charge. I was curious as well if the batteries were remaining linked once the vehicle was turned off. I've checked a few times and verified that the batteries are not linked when once the vehicle is turned off. The fact that the aux battery hasn't been draining has allowed me to start the vehicle when the main battery was showing a voltage below 11.2.

It does sound like there was a bad batch of the 31P AGM7 if this is happening to many of us. My 31P AGM7 was installed March 2016 by Slee when I got the IBS system.

 

[Markuson]

No - the aux battery (an Interstate AGM K5(?)) has been holding its charge. I was curious as well if the batteries were remaining linked once the vehicle was turned off. I've checked a few times and verified that the batteries are not linked when once the vehicle is turned off. The fact that the aux battery hasn't been draining has allowed me to start the vehicle when the main battery was showing a voltage below 11.2.

It does sound like there was a bad batch of the 31P AGM7 if this is happening to many of us. My 31P AGM7 was installed March 2016 by Slee when I got the IBS system.

Ah! My battery was manufactured in January of 2016...so likely the same batch, considering how few of these batteries are stocked.

 

[Kansas Scott]

This guy speaks the truth.

I ordered my diode from the link below, in the US. Not cheap considering what you get but it fixed my low alternator output issue. Though I still plug in my inverter/charger to top the batteries off before camping.

Dirty Parts

I received the replacement for the ALT-S fuse from Dirty Parts and have two questions:
(1) The directions for installation are specific for FJ Cruiser, 4 Runner, or Tacoma. They show removing the ALT S fuse but are showing the fuse as a 7.5 amp fuse. The ALT S fuse in a 2015 200 LC is a 5 amp fuse (pg 576 of owners manual: 45 - ALT S - 5 amp - IC ALT). Is the 5 amp ALT S fuse the one I am suppose to replace?

(2) The directions say to start the engine and check the voltage reading with a voltmeter. I should see an increase in 0.6 - 0.8 volts. Where do I check this voltage? Across the battery terminals?

Thank you!

Kansas Scott

 

[TonyP]

I received the replacement for the ALT-S fuse from Dirty Parts and have two questions:
(1) The directions for installation are specific for FJ Cruiser, 4 Runner, or Tacoma. They show removing the ALT S fuse but are showing the fuse as a 7.5 amp fuse. The ALT S fuse in a 2015 200 LC is a 5 amp fuse (pg 576 of owners manual: 45 - ALT S - 5 amp - IC ALT). Is the 5 amp ALT S fuse the one I am suppose to replace?

(2) The directions say to start the engine and check the voltage reading with a voltmeter. I should see an increase in 0.6 - 0.8 volts. Where do I check this voltage? Across the battery terminals?

Thank you!

Kansas Scott

Yes, that's the one. Use at your own risk. I figured 2.5a isn't an enormous difference considering the vehicle. I've been running it for several months with zero issues.

That being said, I'm planning on swapping it back and going with a Redarc BCDC1225D due to the added features of the Redarc unit.