Best battery for stock LX570? (1 Viewer)

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As mentioned a 27F seems a direct fit with poles in the factory position.

This looks like an option (Duracell Ultra or Ultra Gold) with specs at or better than the Panasonic, minus Made in Japan and likely less durable.

The Duracell car batteries appear East Penn Manufactured, same as the Deka mentioned. Do not know whether Deka or Duracell are similar in design or one better than the other.

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If my free replacement battery starts to go, this is the one I am going with next. Thx.
 
My forever crusade continues...B+B is awful to deal with should you have battery issues. IME, I would rather take the unknown quantity that is the Autozone Diehard, etc than go back with B+B. Godspeed if you go down that road.
Who is B+B? I had Autozone put a Diehard in a Jeep, no problems.
 
Went with the DieHard Silver 27F, gotta say it appears to be the exact same as the Lexus (not original Panasonic) unit.

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I'm pretty sure at least 80 percent of the lead acid batteries on the market are all the same thing with different stickers on top :eek:
 
Replaced the original 10 year old battery on my 2013 at 15k miles as a proactive measure. There's got to be something else causing the drain on your rig.
 
Replaced the original 10 year old battery on my 2013 at 15k miles as a proactive measure. There's got to be something else causing the drain on your rig.
10 YEAR old battery?!?!? I don’t know that I’ve ever gotten more than 4 from mine on any car.
 
10 YEAR old battery?!?!? I don’t know that I’ve ever gotten more than 4 from mine on any car.
The original Panasonic unit is a serious… unit.

And a damn shame we can’t get them here in the states to definitively end the “which battery is best” conversation.
 
The original Panasonic unit is a serious… unit.

And a damn shame we can’t get them here in the states to definitively end the “which battery is best” conversation.
I agree. I replaced the 6 year old Panasonic in my LC before a month long camping trip just because. I gave to a friend who needed a battery for his Tundra and it’s still going strong.
 
If my free replacement battery starts to go, this is the one I am going with next. Thx.
Eventually, post free replacement... be great to keep us posted as to a) what you choose next , b) install experience/fit, c) general use experience and d) durability.
Thanks in advance!
 
Eventually, post free replacement... be great to keep us posted as to a) what you choose next , b) install experience/fit, c) general use experience and d) durability.
Thanks in advance!
I am now at a loss for a diagnosis. I charged the battery yesterday and disconnected the negative terminal. This morning, I reconnected it expected it to be dead but it read 13v and car started right up!? Maybe not the battery after all.
 
Our 2004 e320 is only on its 2nd battery. The first one lasted 14 years, in Alaska. The MB AGM batteries are stout.
I have a similar experience with the MB E350 and now the BMW 535d. Seems a couple of reasons:
- Placement of the battery in the boot at near ambient temperatures all the time -> not the Toyota approach and this is probably a good thing
- A more advanced power management/charging control system which in turn needs reset upon installing (eventually) a new battery (my 535d factory VARTA AGM lasted 10 years) - not the Toyota approach and this maybe for durability a good thing
- Higher quality battery build, yet also more expensive so lifecycle cost wise probably similar to running Costco batteries. You pay for what you get. -> under the hood beside the engine the higher spec battery may not last that long either
 
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I am now at a loss for a diagnosis. I charged the battery yesterday and disconnected the negative terminal. This morning, I reconnected it expected it to be dead but it read 13v and car started right up!? Maybe not the battery after all.
The volt meter set to amps on the negative side can determine a parasitic drain issue or not, followed by pulling fuses.

Like in this video, start at around 5min.

 
I am now at a loss for a diagnosis. I charged the battery yesterday and disconnected the negative terminal. This morning, I reconnected it expected it to be dead but it read 13v and car started right up!? Maybe not the battery after all.
Update on battery drain issues. My mechanic found fuse 38 pulling over .8 amps. He said it goes to the starter button. He cleaned it off and reinstalled it, no more than .025 amp drain after several starts. If it acts up again, probably time for a new start button.
 
Excellent news. Did he use the volt meter in amp setting on the battery ground connection and pull the fuses one by one?
 

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