Builds Barn Find 1983 FJ45 Troopcarrier

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gmac said:
Thanks for the response. Is this something that came originally with the Troopies, or was it an option? I have an Australian 1982 Troopy, and I see I have provisions for it on the axle, but do not have the LSPV. I'll go and so some research, but do they really work well? Do they really help on an old Troopy? I have had mine pretty loaded on long trips, and will be doing longer trips with heavy loads.
Thanks
Guy
Click to expand...
I think they were stock standard after a certain production year but if its in the 80' it should have been there anyway.
Some are removing it however. The idea is that you need more brake force on the rear if you carry increased load and less if carry nothing. The valve needs to work otherwise they intend to rust as anything that is not working. Its a bit like the 4wd. Toyota recommends to run your 4wd regularly. Same with the LSPV. If you never carry anything or always carry load its best to get rid of it because it will not work and may stuck in one position. Therefore it is only good if you sometimes run with load and sometimes without, so the LSVP keeps working.
Further, it may happened that it was not loaded for very long then suddenly got loaded and the valve stuck open under weight. Then when it was run without the rear brake force was way too much for a loadless back and the brakes blocked upon braking at the rear.
This can cause terrible skidding and accidents in slippery roads, so people got rid of them instead of servicing and using.
You need to have two lines going to the rear obviously one forward one return for the LSVP. The reat axle must have a brace welded for the sensor arm. Those are the indicators that you must had this on the vehicle previously.
I have a few LSVP if you want to put it back, let me know.
 
koxfarm said:
I think they were stock standard after a certain production year but if its in the 80' it should have been there anyway.
Some are removing it however. The idea is that you need more brake force on the rear if you carry increased load and less if carry nothing. The valve needs to work otherwise they intend to rust as anything that is not working. Its a bit like the 4wd. Toyota recommends to run your 4wd regularly. Same with the LSPV. If you never carry anything or always carry load its best to get rid of it because it will not work and may stuck in one position. Therefore it is only good if you sometimes run with load and sometimes without, so the LSVP keeps working.
Further, it may happened that it was not loaded for very long then suddenly got loaded and the valve stuck open under weight. Then when it was run without the rear brake force was way too much for a loadless back and the brakes blocked upon braking at the rear.
This can cause terrible skidding and accidents in slippery roads, so people got rid of them instead of servicing and using.
You need to have two lines going to the rear obviously one forward one return for the LSVP. The reat axle must have a brace welded for the sensor arm. Those are the indicators that you must had this on the vehicle previously.
I have a few LSVP if you want to put it back, let me know.
Click to expand...

Wow,
Thanks for the detailed information.
Let me do a little research on my Troopy, but I do have the brace welded for the sensor arm, so it looks like it should be there but has been removed.
Thanks so much.
Guy
 
gmac said:
Wow,
Thanks for the detailed information.
Let me do a little research on my Troopy, but I do have the brace welded for the sensor arm, so it looks like it should be there but has been removed.
Thanks so much.
Guy
Click to expand...
Take a look at the inner RH of your chassis for more evidence.. (double brake pipes, etc
I have asked an old toyota scrapper who is in business since the early 70' and he say all LWB had LSPV. He also said people hated it when it got stuck, so many were removed instead of repaired.

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I'd say it'll be from the mid 70's onwards as my 1970 FJ45 doesn't have one and I'm pretty sure never did.
 
So.. Surely many have seen this troopy..1980 Toyota Land Cruiser HJ45 (not FJ45 not FJ40 ) | eBay I've been looking and couldn't figure out what is it that is not right. Then I realised its like the difference between a house and a home. Its the detail that is called personality that I realised missing. Its possible to throw away every bolt and nut and since they are metric and plenty available new, but then it'll only be a vehicle with nada personality. One of the 40' series's beauty is in its mechanical functioning through personality and old school adjustment.
Literally every part can be fixed, rebuilt.
It is the effort of the restorer what extend to keep or to replace that personality, creating naturally the final product.
Another result show how tiny clips and clasp worth keeping. They make such a difference when there. They need to be stripped, yellow zinc coated and then plastidipped. Dip about 9-10 with gaps of 8 minutes. Good way to pick like two dozens so to just keep on dipping till its thick enough.
I had a hot sunny day to do it outside and the sun helped a lot. Btw, plastidip is UV resistant so it can be cured outside.

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Mint! Jealous!
 
Today I got back my p/s pump from Michael at Southside Power Steering | Carlisle - Welshpool, Perth WA
His work speaks for itself, the pump and the box got complet overhaul with all seals and custom made bushing. That bushing in the pump was never a part available and one had to change the whole unit when started acting up.
Thanks to Michael another trouble is solved..

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ginmtb said:
Can you please detail the solution/process on this? Amazing how nice they turned out! It's a shame that they'll be covered. I may have to do this the next time I flush my cooling system.
Click to expand...
First you have to clean off the insulation that was glued around the core. It can be done with acetone or any paint stripper. When you removed all the glue - you got to be careful not to damage the cells of the core especially on the sides, then flush the core with running water both directions till the outcoming water is clear. Then prepare the first bath which is table salt and white vinegar. You get enough vinegar to cover the core in your bucket or container.
I used a funnel to fill up inside so the acid will clean the inside too.
It is not that corrosive so you can use your hands, however some people prefer using gloves.
When you see appearing a nice copper colour then you are done.
You can flush down the salt/vinegar and rinse your core and bucket. Prepare the second bath of water and baking soda.
Put enough soda so the water turn milky.
Soak your core in it for a few minutes also fill the inside and keep it soaked.
This solution will neutralise the vinegar so further corrosion stopped.
I kept mine in there for 10-15 mins just to make sure its done ok.
Once this is done flush down the second solution and rinse rinse rinse with running water inside outside until perfectly clean. Once you done and dry you can straighten carefully the bent cells with a tweezer.
Next step is if you want you can give it a gloss black radiator spraypaint.
The smooth painted surface attract less dust. Once paint dried you can either glue new foam insulation around or just glue them at the tanks so next time you want to flush it you don't need to work hard removing the adhesives.
 
Next interesting detail is about the swing out spare wheel carrier.
I have removed the pins of the hinges to get the tyre carrier frame organised.
It is pulled apart and the got the usual sandblasting and epoxy priming process.
All knows how the hinge always loose and sagged under the tyre weight. The plastic bushes grind within the steel and no lubrication at all only dry and rust.
Got to be a better way..
I will get the pins machined from marine grade stainless steel and the bushes made of self lubricating bronze.
Toyota spot welded the pins at the bottom hole of the hinge. I will get the pins gun drilled from the bottom and across at about the middle of the hinge so I can inject grease to the hinge.I will get a special gun drilled M10 bolt and washer to tight the pin from under and get an M4 grease nipple zerk in the head of the bolt to be able to inject grease into the hinge. Hope you apologise for the free hand sketch.. it'll soon be ready and photos will follow.

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ginmtb said:
Can you please detail the solution/process on this? Amazing how nice they turned out! It's a shame that they'll be covered. I may have to do this the next time I flush my cooling system.
Click to expand...
In the United States you can buy a new heater core very cheaply. Just search for "HVAC Heater Core APDI 9010346".
 
Baby steps forward.. slowly but surely.
Another tedious one here. Radiator side seals. Frame blasted, powder coated and assembled with original rubbers after thorough clean.

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