Can cruiserdan or someone with experience say what this resto would cost in USD? I wouldn't take it this far but would like to restore mine (same FJ) in the next few years and don't have a clue what kind of budget this takes. TIA
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Alot depends on how much of the work you farm out,what you are willing to restore vs. replace, and how complete/rusty your truck is to start with.
New oem parts are starting to dry up and used are getting harder to find in decent shape. Paint materials will shock you if you have never shopped them before.
If you look at some of the recent selling prices on the restored 40s, there isnt alot of meat left on the bone unless you do 100% of the work yourself. Highjack over.
I could, but I promised myself I would never add up all the receipts in the shoe box! That is for the next guy.
I think it varies from geographic area and the condition your rig is in when you start. I probably have 13K in paint and body work. That includes replacing front fenders rear quarters, rear sill, and bottom of doors. I had someone else do the welding, body, and paint. You just never know what you are going to find when it comes apart. Plus, in the two years since I did mine I think a lot of parts are NLA, and used stuff seems to be harder to get. Then again, there are folks like Racer65 saving us.
A professional restorer I know starts his jobs at somewhere around $60,000.00. An average 40 restoration is at least 900 hours to start. This does not include the acquisition cost of the subject vehicle. koxfarm probably has well over 1,200 hours in his. That is if he scared himself by keeping track.
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- #645
Giant Rainbow over the troopy... make a wish come true!
- Thread starter
- #646
1218hrs and 15mins precisely
Never mind, its not work but work therapy, so if I was put a tag on that would be 40k parts and 40k rarity fee thats 80grand.. probably same value like a new troopy plus 10% as you can have as many new troopy as you want but not a 1983 new
Would it be possible to share some closeup pictures of the rear glovebox, the door, hinge and latching mechanism? I need to fab one up as mine is missing. I can’t think of a better example to base it off of than yours!
Thanks in advance!
-Geoff
Thanks in advance!
-Geoff
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- #648
..jist shoot me a PM. 
Just seen this on CarSales. I couldn't imagine selling one of if not the most perfect trophy on the planet. I wish I had the money.
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- #650
T
Also I thought of placing her at a fealership but due to some of the reasons discussed here I have decided not to. The only option I left was to build her a new shed but its not possible this stage. So she needs to find a new and loving home, period.
that is true, she is looking for the appropriate new home. I don’t have the facility to keep her within the conditions she needs. Unfortunately I had to realise that it is an entirely different setup to re-create these and to keep/store them.
Also I thought of placing her at a fealership but due to some of the reasons discussed here I have decided not to. The only option I left was to build her a new shed but its not possible this stage. So she needs to find a new and loving home, period.
I sent this info up the food chain.
You need to raise the price! That is a steal.
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- #653
..here are a few cherry on the cake.
I have another 40’ series enthusiast friend Todd, who recommended me of how to re-attach stickers with a 3M product 467MP /200MP Adhesive.
So I have managed to peel off and save the 82 Aus 2F Emission regulation decal on the lower RH of the hood, the factory decal above the RH footvent and the a/c warranty plate on the LH/top centre of the firewall. These were carefully temoved during the disassembling of the body panels. Luckily I had a friend who advised of how to put them back.
Today was the day to make this move and finally complete all the decals in place.
I have another 40’ series enthusiast friend Todd, who recommended me of how to re-attach stickers with a 3M product 467MP /200MP Adhesive.
So I have managed to peel off and save the 82 Aus 2F Emission regulation decal on the lower RH of the hood, the factory decal above the RH footvent and the a/c warranty plate on the LH/top centre of the firewall. These were carefully temoved during the disassembling of the body panels. Luckily I had a friend who advised of how to put them back.
Today was the day to make this move and finally complete all the decals in place.
- Thread starter
- #654
Original decals on. Note the photo document showing the a/c plate on the firewall is not straight. Of course it is purposely crooked as the original were sticked up by the person who installed the a/c in 1983. We know that a/c was an optional equipment and the Denso units were installed by authorised subcontractors under supervision of Toyota dealerships as all Land Cruisers came from Japan without aircondition.
Now, if someone is interested how to do it, then:
1. Remove by peeling from one of the corners without stretching the decal.
As you pull the decal use a lightly acetoned cotton board (ear cleaner) to get the adhesive release.
2. When decal is off place it on baking paper and clean the remedy of old adhesive by acetone
3. Sandwitch the decal in a folded baking paper and iron it as it was your shirt.
4. Stick back on using the double sided 3M as advised above
5. When cut out the carrier 3M cut it slightly larger so when you peel off to stick back up you have enough adhesive foil at the edges.
Nothing is uglier when your decal is nicely up except the corner you’ve held it.
Have a beer or two in between if hands are shaky.
Now, if someone is interested how to do it, then:
1. Remove by peeling from one of the corners without stretching the decal.
As you pull the decal use a lightly acetoned cotton board (ear cleaner) to get the adhesive release.
2. When decal is off place it on baking paper and clean the remedy of old adhesive by acetone
3. Sandwitch the decal in a folded baking paper and iron it as it was your shirt.
4. Stick back on using the double sided 3M as advised above
5. When cut out the carrier 3M cut it slightly larger so when you peel off to stick back up you have enough adhesive foil at the edges.
Nothing is uglier when your decal is nicely up except the corner you’ve held it.
Have a beer or two in between if hands are shaky.
just started your thread.
should be some fun reading!
I have a 55 but troopies really catch my eye!
should be some fun reading!
I have a 55 but troopies really catch my eye!
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- #656
Have a nice weekend for all those voted for genuine colour bumperettes vs black.
Now that's pretty!
- Thread starter
- #658
All right, so this is perfection time.. she Is back to stock exhaust manifold instead of the Hurricane brand 6 in 1 down pipes. This conversion involves with a crazy complication as many of you aware the hotbox and its function.
This device the Hotbox in the middle of the exhaust manifold is instrumental for the proper cold running of the 2F. It aids to reach working temperature by redirecting some of exhaust gas to heat up the inlet mixture. This of course help the combustion and save some fuel on the choke. You need to know when you drive a hotbox that it’s sensitive for running the cold engine at top revs.
A misconception that its a bad design often comes from those who never read the user’s manual.
So again, there is nothing wrong with the hotbox nor its design, is just has to be treated in concert with the water gauge. Until the engine is cold (that is below working temperature) it must not be raced. When it is raced the temperature of the exhaust gas increases, and while the gate is open the exhaust gas is diverted to heat the aluminium made inlet manifold which cannot resist like an exhaust and it burns through overtime causing a lot of trouble.
The idea of the hotbox is about a spring, when heated up it loose its tension and then it is no longer a spring.
The tensioned (cold) spring is set to open a gate that diverts the exhaust. It is connected to the gate’s shaft that overtime gets hot so the spring gets hot.
When the engine reach working temp. the spring is hot then it releases the gate which then shuts the exhaust to exit directly without bypassing to the inlet manifold above the hotbox. The box is designed so there is a significant blowby around the gate to avoid blockage the exhaust flow.
Of course none of the parts available for the control side of the valve. I had to get the springs made and the retainer stud machined. There was a groove inside the hole for the pivot sitting in the cast steel housing. Without tight tolerances and constant movement and corrosion those gaps became blow holes for exhaust to leak into the engine bay.! (Another point for the importance of correct and good condition firewall grommets).
I couldn’t figure out if there was replaceable seal around the shaft as passing through the casing. Blocking that potential leak I needed to come up with a idea..I had to see the machine shop. We made a cap to the one end and turned a compressed washer to seal the spring end. Also we made an end cap to the spring where the slit had originally been tackwelded. Now the whole assembly looks uniform and fit for the original purpose.
I show on the photos what remained from the original spring and its retainer stud ..
Installation will soon follow.
This device the Hotbox in the middle of the exhaust manifold is instrumental for the proper cold running of the 2F. It aids to reach working temperature by redirecting some of exhaust gas to heat up the inlet mixture. This of course help the combustion and save some fuel on the choke. You need to know when you drive a hotbox that it’s sensitive for running the cold engine at top revs.
A misconception that its a bad design often comes from those who never read the user’s manual.
So again, there is nothing wrong with the hotbox nor its design, is just has to be treated in concert with the water gauge. Until the engine is cold (that is below working temperature) it must not be raced. When it is raced the temperature of the exhaust gas increases, and while the gate is open the exhaust gas is diverted to heat the aluminium made inlet manifold which cannot resist like an exhaust and it burns through overtime causing a lot of trouble.
The idea of the hotbox is about a spring, when heated up it loose its tension and then it is no longer a spring.
The tensioned (cold) spring is set to open a gate that diverts the exhaust. It is connected to the gate’s shaft that overtime gets hot so the spring gets hot.
When the engine reach working temp. the spring is hot then it releases the gate which then shuts the exhaust to exit directly without bypassing to the inlet manifold above the hotbox. The box is designed so there is a significant blowby around the gate to avoid blockage the exhaust flow.
Of course none of the parts available for the control side of the valve. I had to get the springs made and the retainer stud machined. There was a groove inside the hole for the pivot sitting in the cast steel housing. Without tight tolerances and constant movement and corrosion those gaps became blow holes for exhaust to leak into the engine bay.! (Another point for the importance of correct and good condition firewall grommets).
I couldn’t figure out if there was replaceable seal around the shaft as passing through the casing. Blocking that potential leak I needed to come up with a idea..I had to see the machine shop. We made a cap to the one end and turned a compressed washer to seal the spring end. Also we made an end cap to the spring where the slit had originally been tackwelded. Now the whole assembly looks uniform and fit for the original purpose.
I show on the photos what remained from the original spring and its retainer stud ..
Installation will soon follow.
- Thread starter
- #659
profile snaps
Awesome
