Builds Atnolan94 Land Crooser Build Thread

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Been too long since I've posted on here! The truck did great all throughout HIH. After my last update, we ran Black Bear, Kendall Mountain, Poughkeepsie Gulch, Corkscrew Pass, Clear Lake, Engineer Pass, and even ran up to Leadville to run mosquito pass, the highest drivable mountain pass in Colorado. On the long drive home I noticed some major vibrations, which about 3-4 weeks ago turned into popping and clicking. i'm guessing after all the abuse of HIH, my 244k mile CVs finally gave up. I got some OEM CV avles and new sway bar end links to replace while I'm in there. I attached a pic below of the rig on Imogene taken by our very own @geanes

The passenger CV took me a couple of days, I simply could not get it to pop out of the diff. I tried all my pry bars, all of my screwdrivers, all my punches, etc. it would not budge. I eventually invested in a tempered steel pry bar that is about 24" long, and after an hour of hammering it witha 4.5 lb sledge, the CV finally came out. I had it back together and on the ground in no more than 10-minutes after that.

The drivers CV was very different. My big pry bar wasn't fitting between the diff and CV end, so I decided to the a really fat flathead screwdriver, put it in the gap between the Diff and the CV, two taps of the hammer, and the whole thing popped out.

Many people said that you need to pull the entire knuckle to do this job, and that's just not true. I undid my tie rod (really didn't need to), and UBJ just to allow me enough room to slide the very long hub-end of the CV out of the hub. To undo your UBJ, you need to also undo the brake and ABS sensor brackets that are held onto the knuckle with 12mm bolts. The drivers side, since the CV came out easily, took me 60 minutes. and this included the ~10 minutes it took to replace my sway bar end link.

So far on my front end I have replaced:
Outer tie rods
Inner Tie rods
CV axles
Sway bar End Links

This truck literally feels brand new. No vibration or humming, no front end clunk AT ALL. It was a pain but I'm glad I spent the time to fix all of this properly. I was test driving Colorado ZR2's the other day and seriously considering calling it on this cruiser, but these repairs have really brought me back into the fold. Now I need to buck up and do my steering rack bushings....

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Did you go with OEM cv axles? I need mine done but dang they are pricey for OEM and I get why but just looking at alternative options potentially...

Been too long since I've posted on here! The truck did great all throughout HIH. After my last update, we ran Black Bear, Kendall Mountain, Poughkeepsie Gulch, Corkscrew Pass, Clear Lake, Engineer Pass, and even ran up to Leadville to run mosquito pass, the highest drivable mountain pass in Colorado. On the long drive home I noticed some major vibrations, which about 3-4 weeks ago turned into popping and clicking. i'm guessing after all the abuse of HIH, my 244k mile CVs finally gave up. I got some OEM CV avles and new sway bar end links to replace while I'm in there. I attached a pic below of the rig on Imogene taken by our very own @geanes

The passenger CV took me a couple of days, I simply could not get it to pop out of the diff. I tried all my pry bars, all of my screwdrivers, all my punches, etc. it would not budge. I eventually invested in a tempered steel pry bar that is about 24" long, and after an hour of hammering it witha 4.5 lb sledge, the CV finally came out. I had it back together and on the ground in no more than 10-minutes after that.

The drivers CV was very different. My big pry bar wasn't fitting between the diff and CV end, so I decided to the a really fat flathead screwdriver, put it in the gap between the Diff and the CV, two taps of the hammer, and the whole thing popped out.

Many people said that you need to pull the entire knuckle to do this job, and that's just not true. I undid my tie rod (really didn't need to), and UBJ just to allow me enough room to slide the very long hub-end of the CV out of the hub. To undo your UBJ, you need to also undo the brake and ABS sensor brackets that are held onto the knuckle with 12mm bolts. The drivers side, since the CV came out easily, took me 60 minutes. and this included the ~10 minutes it took to replace my sway bar end link.

So far on my front end I have replaced:
Outer tie rods
Inner Tie rods
CV axles
Sway bar End Links

This truck literally feels brand new. No vibration or humming, no front end clunk AT ALL. It was a pain but I'm glad I spent the time to fix all of this properly. I was test driving Colorado ZR2's the other day and seriously considering calling it on this cruiser, but these repairs have really brought me back into the fold. Now I need to buck up and do my steering rack bushings....

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Did
 
Did you go with OEM cv axles? I need mine done but dang they are pricey for OEM and I get why but just looking at alternative options potentially...


Did

Yes I did. You can find them online for like 375 each. CVJ axles make OEM remanufactured axles the some people have good results, they’re something like $125 a piece plus shipping. But that includes basic boots which leave much to be desired. Detroit Axle also makes an OEM reman that’s unbelievably cheap, but no long-term reviews yet.

All reports still show OEM is the way to go to have no quality concerns.
 
Took the cruiser out to Northwest OHV Park outside of Dallas today. Apparently there was a big group of Softroaders out there, so it was a little congested. I have been out before but never in the cruiser. This thing got all up and down everything as I needed. Took it easy in a couple spots since I was alone. There is one steep rocky climb out of the quarry at the park and I watched a number of Tacoma’s, 4Runners, and even JKU’s that couldn’t make it up. The 100 slid right on up!

 
Some pics

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Nice work!

I think about taking my flares off as well but don't want to be stuck with all the adhesive afterwards.
 
Nice work!

I think about taking my flares off as well but don't want to be stuck with all the adhesive afterwards.

The flares shouldn’t be affixed with adhesive, that was just the dealer I bought his from being extremely lazy.
 
Looking good! Now..........you NEED to go up to Colorado again and properly wheel that rig with Connor, Brian and myself!
 
Looking good! Now..........you NEED to go up to Colorado again and properly wheel that rig with Connor, Brian and myself!

I know I know!! I’m having withdrawals.
 
The flares shouldn’t be affixed with adhesive, that was just the dealer I bought his from being extremely lazy.

I pulled mine off a bit and theres some old double sided tape on the back of the flares sticking to the paint. Gonna get a clay bar and some detailing stuff before the removal.
 
I pulled mine off a bit and theres some old double sided tape on the back of the flares sticking to the paint. Gonna get a clay bar and some detailing stuff before the removal.

Yeah thats not too hard to remove. Mine were hastily installed with thick, black epoxy.

Looks good! Keep up the good work.

Thank you! It's definitely been a struggle, alot of hard work, but its running pretty good lately.
 
Been a minute since an update! Biggest change since last update is I got a Dobinsons rear bumper. I bought it off @Peabody since he decided to jump to a 4x4 labs bumper. overall, you get what you pay for and the quality of this bumper is good. The powdercoat is good, all the mechanisms work well, and it gets the job done. I smacked it hard 2-3 times at the deer lease and no issue. i'm excited to really wheels with it.

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Shortly after the bumper, I found a used set of BORA spacers here on mud for a good deal. These spacers are actually 1.75" front and 1.5" rear, which is really significant. The front spacers have the "teeth" in them to allow for the hub studs, however these spacers are so wide they would easily clear the hubs with out these special notches.

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My fan clutch started sticking and it killed my mileage and drivability. $75 on an Aisin clutch and we are back in action. Not a hard install at all with a super helpful 1A Auto video and some patience. I was getting 225 miles a tank with the clutch stuck, and now I'm back up to my typical 300-315 miles. While I was in the engine bay, I went ahead and replaced my fuel filter due to some sluggish starts and it made a noticeable difference, however it still has been sluggish on a few tries. its a fuel issue since the truck is cranking fine, so a new fuel pump may be in order. For now it is working and time will tell.

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So far this winter the truck has been a deer lease vehicle, including some innovative ways to get the deep back to camp! We have gottena ton of rain this fall and the entire property is a mud pit. Aired down, this truck will literally go anywhere we take our polaris rangers. I could not be any happier with this truck right now!

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A few minor mods this weekend. The Dobinsons bumper has no recovery points so this was a major priority to me. Toyota engineers were smart as always, and the hitch mounting captive nuts in the frame are the same exact size and spacing as the the holes up front. I was able to just buy a second pair of @reevesci Trail tailor tow points. I have to mount them facing inward due to the frame bracket from the bumper, but they are functionally perfect! I just re-used the hitch bolts and they threaded right in with plenty of thread to pass all the way past the end of the captive nut.

I also chopped off that ugly resonator which really cleaned up the rear end of the truck now that there is no hitch and no spare. It also allows that little bit of extra clearance back there so I don't have to show off my dented up resonator to everyone driving behind me.

I have some really FUN mods coming in the next two weeks that I'm very excited about. I have a couple big orders coming up from Metaltech and Trail Tailor. I will post my installs here in my build thread. This truck is really getting to a place where I really am happy with it.
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A few minor mods this weekend. The Dobinsons bumper has no recovery points so this was a major priority to me. Toyota engineers were smart as always, and the hitch mounting captive nuts in the frame are the same exact size and spacing as the the holes up front. I was able to just buy a second pair of @reevesci Trail tailor tow points. I have to mount them facing inward due to the frame bracket from the bumper, but they are functionally perfect! I just re-used the hitch bolts and they threaded right in with plenty of thread to pass all the way past the end of the captive nut.

I also chopped off that ugly resonator which really cleaned up the rear end of the truck now that there is no hitch and no spare. It also allows that little bit of extra clearance back there so I don't have to show off my dented up resonator to everyone driving behind me.

I have some really FUN mods coming in the next two weeks that I'm very excited about. I have a couple big orders coming up from Metaltech and Trail Tailor. I will post my installs here in my build thread. This truck is really getting to a place where I really am happy with it.View attachment 1830338

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I'm curious, would there be any adverse affects if you remove the tire carrier cross member? I'm gonna need to drop my spare soon and I won't ever use the tire carrier again once I get a rear carrier. Just curious.
 
I'm curious, would there be any adverse affects if you remove the tire carrier cross member? I'm gonna need to drop my spare soon and I won't ever use the tire carrier again once I get a rear carrier. Just curious.

None at all but I stripped the bolt heads haha. I pulled my spare down by unbolting the little winch up there. I thought about cutting it off with the sawzall I bough today but it wouldn't have looked great. I'll just live with it.
 
A few minor mods this weekend. The Dobinsons bumper has no recovery points so this was a major priority to me. Toyota engineers were smart as always, and the hitch mounting captive nuts in the frame are the same exact size and spacing as the the holes up front. I was able to just buy a second pair of @reevesci Trail tailor tow points. I have to mount them facing inward due to the frame bracket from the bumper, but they are functionally perfect! I just re-used the hitch bolts and they threaded right in with plenty of thread to pass all the way past the end of the captive nut.

I also chopped off that ugly resonator which really cleaned up the rear end of the truck now that there is no hitch and no spare. It also allows that little bit of extra clearance back there so I don't have to show off my dented up resonator to everyone driving behind me.

I have some really FUN mods coming in the next two weeks that I'm very excited about. I have a couple big orders coming up from Metaltech and Trail Tailor. I will post my installs here in my build thread. This truck is really getting to a place where I really am happy with it.View attachment 1830338

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Notice any signification increase in exhaust noise? I cut then end off my Tacoma exhaust to get it out of the way but it didn't include the resonator/muffler. I'd like to do this on my truck but not if it is going to be much louder.
 
Notice any signification increase in exhaust noise? I cut then end off my Tacoma exhaust to get it out of the way but it didn't include the resonator/muffler. I'd like to do this on my truck but not if it is going to be much louder.

Not a lick of difference. One less thing to bang up on the trail.
 

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