I just installed these yesterday on my 2004 Land Cruiser. I recorded everything and will be making a youtube vid soon, but few notes...
1. Seems like these are meant to be stacked starting with the rear... meaning the rear small transfer case skid goes on first, then the large middle one goes on top of that and finally the front plate goes on top of the middle one. That said, I'd still recommend installing front to rear as it makes it easier to install the middle plate. I installed the front skid first and left the rear 2 bolts almost completely loose. Once the front 3 and 1 middle bolt were in to the point where they were holding the skid well, I took out the rear 2 bolts. Then I installed the middle skid by wedging the front of it between the front plate and the car and installing only 2 outside bolts (there are 4 total for the front skid plate in the back of the plate. (NOTE: Make sure you place the large plate nut into the subframe before putting on the middle plate). Once the 2 outside bolts are holding up the rear of the middle plate, I put in the 2 front bolts (these go through the front plate, then through the middle plate and tighten both together). Lastly, the rear plate goes on pretty easily by squeezing it between the rear of the middle plate and the subframe, bolting up the rear and then the front of it. Obviously you have to install the rear cross member first that has the exhaust cutout, then you do the rear plate.
The only tricky part was trying to catch that big plate nut but once the rear and middle plates are pretty stable it's easy to look up from the rear and "find the right hole"
2. I didn't install the cross member for the middle plate because the u-bolts for my sliders interfere with it. I will be cutting and welding that cross member so that it goes around my u-bolts. That said, even without that cross member the middle skid is very sturdy and well mounted... I imagine the middle brace is for some heavy rock crawling in case you actually "sit" on a rock in that section it will be protected. Some have mentioned spacers, but I imagine that pushes the whole plate down about 1/2-3/4" so I have no clue how the other mounting holes would be affected. I guess you can get spacers for the rear too but that means you're losing that 1/2-1" clearance so my fix will be to simply mod the sides of the brace a bit... instead of being flat it will simply be a "U" going around the u-bolts.
3. I did have to drill out the holes on the rear of the middle plate where those flush mount washers go... They simply wouldn't line up for me so I used my dremmel, but I it was only for the 2 outside holes. The 2nd driver side hole is where the plate nut is in the subframe so that can move around and fit no problem. The 3rd hole from driver (so 2nd from passenger side) fit fine so I didn't touch it.
4. When I get around to modding the middle plate brace I will also notch out the front mounting points of both the middle and rear plates for easier removal down the line. My 3rd gen 4runner plates were designed with the notched edges so they just slide in around the bolts, but I didn't have time to do it on the 100 right away. It's on the list!
5. The ASFIR logo cutouts are a horrible idea and I hope they eliminate that from the design. Sure it makes it weaker overall but that's not a big deal for most. Bigger issue is dirt and oxidation... the holes let dirt and dust through making the engine dirtier than it needs to be and those sharp edges are just notorious for oxidizing/rust spots etc. My solution will be a strip of paint protection film both on the under and top side of the logo, but would've been so much better if they simply left it whole or maybe etched the logo somewhere.
Overall the design is great and I think it bolts up really well.
(Inside joke - my day job is lawyer)
