An illustrated guide to replacing your APPS - Part 1 (5 Viewers)

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I replaced both tps and apps but still limp mode ... :(

Off to a indie mechanic .. i hope they dont guess around randomly and straight away make sure wiring is A OK then tb or the motor inside tb.....


I heard some people got this fixed under warranty back in 2015. Anyone know about it? Or has any info? Its gotta be related to the big news around toyota unintended accelaration problem.. thx
 
Focus group of one, I mean a single drive this morning in 37F and it seems to have resolved by replacing the APPS.

Never found any codes pointing me to either the APPS or TPS. The only symptom was in cold weather the RPMs would just drop and I had to re-depress the pedal to get the truck to go again. Sometimes it would happen several times in my 4 mile commute. Only when it was cold - near freezing and below.
 
I have been having such bad luck so far.
I spent $$ on OEM TPS and APPS. and 4 hour of indie mechanic.

the outcome from 4 hour diagnose, is that I have to replace my ECU? I am having second thought to follow that suggestion. plus the indie mechanic didn't seen want to help me finding the replacement ECU.

So of I go to another indie. his name is JOHN. John seems to be really helpful
but now all his manual for wiring diagram did not match my truck.

can someone post ECM ECU wiring diagram for 1998 LX470?
thanks
 
1. APPS (part no 22060-50011)
2. TPS (part no 89452-30140)


And If you are unlucky like me
Mind as well spend the whole throttle body assembly
Part no 22030-50142
 
Focus group of one, I mean a single drive this morning in 37F and it seems to have resolved by replacing the APPS.

Never found any codes pointing me to either the APPS or TPS. The only symptom was in cold weather the RPMs would just drop and I had to re-depress the pedal to get the truck to go again. Sometimes it would happen several times in my 4 mile commute. Only when it was cold - near freezing and below.


I am in the same boat....what you stated happened to me exactly 2x over the last month....I can’t replicate nor do I get a cel or code....
 
I am in the same boat....what you stated happened to me exactly 2x over the last month....I can’t replicate nor do I get a cel or code....

Hasn't happened since my post earlier this year and now it's been below freezing for days and no symptoms.
 
Just replaced the APPS on my 2000 LX470 (part number 22060-50011).

Similar to some others, I was sitting at a stoplight and when the light turned green I had virtually no throttle response when I stepped on the accelerator, and I had a CEL and both VSC lights on. Turning the engine off and then back on allowed normal driving, although the dash lights stayed on. The problem "fixed" itself by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, and then everything was normal for a few weeks, although the problem would come back. The only code I had was p1121. Time will tell if the APPS was causing my problem.

The only things I can contribute to this thread are:
1. The APPS is held in place with three screws. Consider swapping out the screws for bolts. I find screws are too easy to strip and then you're, uh, screwed. I don't know what the equivalent bolt would be but maybe someone on here does.

2. You don't need to completely remove the intake tube that connects the air filter to the engine. You can loosen the hose clamps at each end, and remove the bolt that holds it in place, and then just kind of move it out of the way a couple of inches to be able to get a screwdriver socket (aka bit driver socket) onto the screws. This saves you from removing the vacuum hoses.

3. I put a piece of paper under the APPS to catch anything I dropped so it wouldn't disappear into the engine compartment.

4. I bought my APPS off of Ebay seller "xpectrum" and the shipping was quick. New OEM and it cost me $185.
 
Just replaced the APPS on my 2000 LX470 (part number 22060-50011).

Similar to some others, I was sitting at a stoplight and when the light turned green I had virtually no throttle response when I stepped on the accelerator, and I had a CEL and both VSC lights on. Turning the engine off and then back on allowed normal driving, although the dash lights stayed on. The problem "fixed" itself by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, and then everything was normal for a few weeks, although the problem would come back. The only code I had was p1121. Time will tell if the APPS was causing my problem.

It's a few months and a thousand miles later, and the problem has not returned, so it looks like the new APPS solved my problem. Hope that helps others that have these same symptoms.
 
I hadn't similar event a couple months ago. Was pretty cold, 0°F and vehicle showing APPS code. Replaced with OEM from Partsouq for around $200 (dealer price $500). Issue hasn't returned. I'm on my second or third throttle body at 200k miles, all dealer replaced.

I agree about the screws, does anyone know why toyota randomly uses Phillips heads when a hex head would work? I use a T-handle and squared head Phillips for stuff like that.
 
Same issue has been happening since the cold weather arrived. Ordered APPS from Amazon for 170.00.

I never got and lights or codes....we shall see if this is it when the part arrives. <fingers crossed>
 
Just installed everything, now my idle is at 1500rpm and threw a code...

I can’t seem to figure out how this Apps sits in the housing....when I put it in and rotate as the FSM indicates, I run out of cable the throttle is applied...
You can see in the pics below the gap on the apps. However, the factory apps seems to have the gap as well. (At least the way I am installing it)

A4D39D9F-D840-4273-BC1D-7065F957C34F.jpeg
2EB62817-882C-471A-A7EF-BF771A5BC457.jpeg
 
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That looks installed correctly. If you did APPS and TPS and still getting limp mode. then you need to get a new throttle body ...



Thats how I fixed mine, part no 22030-50142 ( pricey as heck, 800USD ish)
22030-50142 ( comes with a new APPS and TPS already installed). and where I am at , I have to get it special release form otherwise they will not sell just the part.

I spent almost $2000 going against what the dealer said. went to three well know toyota indy shop, they all cannot figure it out.
finally I caved in and dealer replaced the TB.


one last try is to clean TB like hell , and see if you can get it to spec properly again.
 
That looks installed correctly. If you did APPS and TPS and still getting limp mode. then you need to get a new throttle body ...

Limp mode can also occur if there is a problem with the throttle control motor or its clutch. The '99 models have a 'link ETCS-i' throttle control. See the attached document. Link-style throttle control starts at page 8. A helpful picture can also be found in Figure 7-01 lower left of the same document.
 

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That looks installed correctly. If you did APPS and TPS and still getting limp mode. then you need to get a new throttle body ...



Thats how I fixed mine, part no 22030-50142 ( pricey as heck, 800USD ish)
22030-50142 ( comes with a new APPS and TPS already installed). and where I am at , I have to get it special release form otherwise they will not sell just the part.

I spent almost $2000 going against what the dealer said. went to three well know toyota indy shop, they all cannot figure it out.
finally I caved in and dealer replaced the TB.


one last try is to clean TB like hell , and see if you can get it to spec properly again.

I actually did clean the throttle body while I was in there.

Is there a “learning period” for the ECU to recalibrate the idle? I just did the apps replacement.

I never got limp mode, I would temporarily lose power when it was cold out. Let off the gas and gun it and it would start working again.

However, as soon as I started it, after installing the new one, my idle was 1500rpm.

I now have every ripped back a part trying to figure it out.
 
Limp mode can also occur if there is a problem with the throttle control motor or its clutch. The '99 models have a 'link ETCS-i' throttle control. See the attached document. Link-style throttle control starts at page 8. A helpful picture can also be found in Figure 7-01 lower left of the same document.

Never got limp mode, I just have an overly excited idle since the install.
 
Limp mode can also occur if there is a problem with the throttle control motor or its clutch. The '99 models have a 'link ETCS-i' throttle control. See the attached document. Link-style throttle control starts at page 8. A helpful picture can also be found in Figure 7-01 lower left of the same document.

I guess today is not my day...I can’t get your link to open either. :bang:
 
right click the attachment and then click "save link as"

you will need a buddy or piece of rope, but, try disconnecting the cable and make sure the gas pedal is fully "OUT" (pull towards the drivers seat) and keep tension on it. then reattach cable. never having dealt with this before, but that is my friday night stuck at work fix.
 
right click the attachment and then click "save link as"

you will need a buddy or piece of rope, but, try disconnecting the cable and make sure the gas pedal is fully "OUT" (pull towards the drivers seat) and keep tension on it. then reattach cable. never having dealt with this before, but that is my friday night stuck at work fix.

I will give it a try tomorrow. The throttle cable didn’t seem to be any tighter after I installed the new one. In fact the throttle cable seems perfect. It doesn’t have slack in it, yet it isn’t pulling on the apps either.

I am starting to think maybe it is a wiring issue. However, prior to installing the new apps, I never had high idle issues.

I know the walk-through stated to reset the mil prior to starting, but I never had a mil, so I just started it up....maybe now that I have a mil, a reset will readapt the apps. (That is what I am hoping for anyway)
 
have you disconnected the battery for a few minutes so the whole thing can relearn together so to speak? a warm start sends it to 1500 or a dead cold start? my truck goes to about 1100 on a dead cold start.
 

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