An illustrated guide to replacing your APPS - Part 1 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter davidsob
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Thanks for the post. My '99 LC threw a p1120 code about a month ago on the way back to Denver from Salt Lake City. I checked the code and cleared it. Then 2 weeks in a row I've gotten the P1126 code. I'm not sure if I should start with this part or not. Anyone have any ideas?
Per the FSM, the p1120 code would lead a technician through diagnosising the APPS. My truck recently threw P1121 which led me to replace the APPS last night. So far so good after a few test drives.
The P1126 code indicates a malfunction in the Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction which seems to point to replacing the throttle control motor.
Hope that helps.
Bumping this post as it helped me last night. I had the usual symptoms on Monday - CEL came on and truck went into limp mode at a busy intersection. Got the truck to a side street and shut it down and restarted. Seemed to drive ok after that, though CEL stayed one. Had the APPS delivered yesterday and knocked out the job in about 20 minutes (I'm slow).
The super charger made for less things to take apart. The intake on my vehicle has been modified as well so I only had to remove a small section of the hose to get to the APPS. An offset bit driver was a key to making this an easy repair.
The super charger made for less things to take apart. The intake on my vehicle has been modified as well so I only had to remove a small section of the hose to get to the APPS. An offset bit driver was a key to making this an easy repair.
I had the 1126 for a while, but no limp mode. I replaced the APPS and it was still there. Replacing the TPS made it go away.
Double post
Thank you! I’m assuming these are 2 separate parts? Where’s a good source for the TPS?
Called my local lexus dealer for part 22060-50011.
And the part guy said there's a stop sale on it.
if it is not stop sale it cost $895 cad to sell it over the counter...
Where and who is cdan? How can i get in touch?
Also is stop sale mean anything? Is there a new part number replacing accelerator pedal position sensor?
Thx
And the part guy said there's a stop sale on it.
if it is not stop sale it cost $895 cad to sell it over the counter...
Where and who is cdan? How can i get in touch?
Also is stop sale mean anything? Is there a new part number replacing accelerator pedal position sensor?
Thx
Ordered a new OEM lever sensor 22060-50011 from a dealer in FL from ebay for $223. It'll be here next week...
arrived and installed. Hoping for the best.
My 2002 Lx470 was having all the same symptoms as listed above; but I had different set of diagnostic codes
P0171 and P0174
Which refer to the engine running lean. I also noted the short trim on both banks was -20 and long term was 10 percent on both banks. Initially I just changed the TPS but there was no change. I just decided to bite the bullet and change the APPS as I had experienced the no throttle response and inability to go over 50 mph. So I changed the APPS. It seems more responsive. The diagnostic codes went away and the both long term and short term trims went back to normal. I did the pinch test on the fuel return line, appears my fuel pressure was fine. I hope this was the fix. If not my final fix will be the MAF sensor and just changing the fuel filter.
Thoughts?
P0171 and P0174
Which refer to the engine running lean. I also noted the short trim on both banks was -20 and long term was 10 percent on both banks. Initially I just changed the TPS but there was no change. I just decided to bite the bullet and change the APPS as I had experienced the no throttle response and inability to go over 50 mph. So I changed the APPS. It seems more responsive. The diagnostic codes went away and the both long term and short term trims went back to normal. I did the pinch test on the fuel return line, appears my fuel pressure was fine. I hope this was the fix. If not my final fix will be the MAF sensor and just changing the fuel filter.
Thoughts?
Okay, it appears I've just had my APPS go out and this thread was rock solid information, but I thought I'd confirm a few things and give some diagnostic suggestions as well. I am at 186k and have replaced O2 sensors previously.When it finally went out, it threw the following genius bar lights:
-CEL
-DSC TRAC
-DSC OFF
P1121 is the only code that was found. Power decreased rapidly and the accelerator became completely unresponsive. I sailed to the side, got it up on a curb, put it in/out of a few gears and had enough power to go home on 2nd gear, since I was a few blocks from my house. This could be a real deal killer if you're on the highway, so here's my contribution...
Note: I believe there were slow, subtle signs of deteriorating performance of the APPS over the past 5k miles. I had convinced myself that the fuel pump I'd replaced earlier had problems. This was not correct. Most notably, small drops of power at higher rpm and speeds. As if it's catching up, or shifting into gear. In my case, the APPS clearly 'flickered' and dropped power in small, sudden amounts while at 60mph. Also, outside temperature was 22 F
Immediately preceding today's event, the power became almost erratic and was very noticeable at lower speeds. So there was a full 50 miles where power was erratic in flowing from the accelerator to the engine. Bottom line, if you start to notice small drops or shift in power delivery, keep it to a place where you can recover and get off the road quickly.
-CEL
-DSC TRAC
-DSC OFF
P1121 is the only code that was found. Power decreased rapidly and the accelerator became completely unresponsive. I sailed to the side, got it up on a curb, put it in/out of a few gears and had enough power to go home on 2nd gear, since I was a few blocks from my house. This could be a real deal killer if you're on the highway, so here's my contribution...
Note: I believe there were slow, subtle signs of deteriorating performance of the APPS over the past 5k miles. I had convinced myself that the fuel pump I'd replaced earlier had problems. This was not correct. Most notably, small drops of power at higher rpm and speeds. As if it's catching up, or shifting into gear. In my case, the APPS clearly 'flickered' and dropped power in small, sudden amounts while at 60mph. Also, outside temperature was 22 F
Immediately preceding today's event, the power became almost erratic and was very noticeable at lower speeds. So there was a full 50 miles where power was erratic in flowing from the accelerator to the engine. Bottom line, if you start to notice small drops or shift in power delivery, keep it to a place where you can recover and get off the road quickly.
I’m on ten lane highways, tractor trailers and quite a few uninsured drivers. 60 mph min. While that might certainly work, it really begs the question of whether it’s worth the risk.
I paid $290. Probably could have gone cheaper but I wanted a dedicated Toyota part dealer.
I paid $290. Probably could have gone cheaper but I wanted a dedicated Toyota part dealer.
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I'll reiterate this again. I'm doubtful that the APPS sensor just fails without complete warning. Rather there are very subtle signs of power dropping as if there is a problem with the fuel pump or transmission. After about 2k RPM you might notice very slight power drops where it's almost a hiccup. That can continue for a thousand miles or more, in my case it did.
It will go full crazy when the temperature drops and will almost seize erratically where the responsiveness of the accelerator is erratic.
Don't wait until it hits limp mode, go ahead and replace it.
Pulled trigger on these seller on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y5BCM4W/ref=oh_aui_i_r_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Installed the part. Then guess what
Item defective. Lucky my original part still work intermittently to confirm the wiring is not the issue.
Am i the un luckiest ever to order this item.
Good thing its amazon return hopefully i dont get any trouble returning it ..
Any suggestions which seller i should go with?
Thx u
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y5BCM4W/ref=oh_aui_i_r_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Installed the part. Then guess what
Item defective. Lucky my original part still work intermittently to confirm the wiring is not the issue.
Am i the un luckiest ever to order this item.
Good thing its amazon return hopefully i dont get any trouble returning it ..
Any suggestions which seller i should go with?
Thx u
