Builds An Accidental Frame Off.................. (21 Viewers)

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Anyone know who makes that plug that goes in the hole in the fuel tank cover? The hole for the sending unit.
 
Toyota Matt…. Some 16ga and 3 or 4 M5 rivnuts would do the trick.
I thought someone was repopping that rubber cover that went there. Was it Toyota Matt? I'll have to browse his goods.
 
I thought someone was repopping that rubber cover that went there. Was it Toyota Matt? I'll have to browse his goods.
He’s got it on his website- it might take awhile.
 
He’s got it on his website- it might take awhile.
Maybe not. Word is he’s pretty focused on his shop while not being on mud. 🤷🏽
 
3rd time was a charm.

It was HOT though, mid 90's, dry as a furnace fan in Phoenix Arizona.

The dry fly action was hot too.
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I miss being able to go trout fishing! That one looks like he's trying to bite that circle on your forearm. LOL
That circle must have been from my reel, at least that's all I can think of.
 
Friday night tacos and tequila are on the slate for a few.
 
I've been wanting to do something with the radio slot in my dash for a long time now, with the new seats that included heaters in them it gave me a good excuse.
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The switches included with the seats are dumb in my opinion, yeah, they're cheap, and that gets passed along to the consumer. Nevertheless, I don't like them.
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After countless hours of browsing 40 tech here in mud, I found some pics of a 6 gang rocker switch panel from somewhere. I started a thread about it and received some solid input.

Along came some stuff from Waytek and OTRATTW switch place.

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More to come later...



The fun began when I wanted lighted switches. I had already decided on the V series rockers from Carling.

The seat heater wiring design runs the 12vDC power supply to a magic black box under the seat, from there a 3.5(ish)vDC switching circuit goes up to the switch. Hi-off-lo switching circuitry (SPDT).

That wouldn't work with a 12vDC light in the Carling switch, after reviewing some wiring diagrams on their switches I figured out i could run with a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch would work. Using one set of contacts for the heater switching, and the other I brought 12vDC to power the lighting circuit in the switch.
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I found a wiring connector kit on Amazon that mated up with the existing connector bodies from the heater harness.

Female Sta-Kons from Waytek.
Klein tools from my trade life.
Heat shrink tubing from my existing parts stash to help clean up each switch harness.

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More to come later...



The fun began when I wanted lighted switches. I had already decided on the V series rockers from Carling.

The seat heater wiring design runs the 12vDC power supply to a magic black box under the seat, from there a 3.5(ish)vDC switching circuit goes up to the switch. Hi-off-lo switching circuitry (SPDT).

That wouldn't work with a 12vDC light in the Carling switch, after reviewing some wiring diagrams on their switches I figured out i could run with a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch would work. Using one set of contacts for the heater switching, and the other I brought 12vDC to power the lighting circuit in the switch.
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I used 60 series seat heater switches in my 40 to power the BMW seats. Works great.
 
I've been wanting to do something with the radio slot in my dash for a long time now, with the new seats that included heaters in them it gave me a good excuse.
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The switches included with the seats are dumb in my opinion, yeah, they're cheap, and that gets passed along to the consumer. Nevertheless, I don't like them.
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The "Foot Lights" switch will be perfect for your underglow and spinning hubcap lights!
 

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