Kitty 's gotta eat...
Builds An Accidental Frame Off.................. (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter rkymtnflyfisher
- Start date
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rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,962
I was doing a little troubleshooting on the carb last night, it seems that when the accelerator pump plunger is depressed fuel isn't being sprayed into the primary barrel.
Pics, because we like pics.
Pics, because we like pics.
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
My all time favorite is the lifted 2x4 truck sporting truck nuts…. Next level special
With no accelerator pump they run fine until you step on the gas - then they choke and die unless you are ever so gentle about opening up the throttle.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,965
A little soaking from a quick spray of carb cleaner, and a couple good blasts after it was freed up and it seemed to work as it's is supposed to. Throttle response was peppy, all seemed well until I drove to work today. At a stop sign it felt like it wanted to fall on its face when I started to drive off, not much response from the pedal when I feathered the fuel to it.
The next spot I had to stop at I decided to just give it about half throttle to see how it would respond, it acted like it wasn't getting enough fuel to get motivated again.
Guess I'll continue playing with it tonight. I have a rebuild kit on the way (791B) and I'm getting another from Cruiser Outfitters to compliment the parts in the other one.
The next spot I had to stop at I decided to just give it about half throttle to see how it would respond, it acted like it wasn't getting enough fuel to get motivated again.
Guess I'll continue playing with it tonight. I have a rebuild kit on the way (791B) and I'm getting another from Cruiser Outfitters to compliment the parts in the other one.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Don’t know about your carb, but on most that I’ve worked on there is a small ball in the bottom of the accelerator pump well to keep pressure from the pump back pushing fuel out the inlet hole. Sometimes those balls get lost or forgot about when rebuilding. Your inbound kit may have one, a carb rebuild manual will show it if needed for your carb. Just something to check. GL.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
In my experience on carbs with a plunger type accelerator pump, when it fails it's done and needs a rebuild or a replacement plunger/pump.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,968
Yup.
That ball came out and got cleaned, spring checked, all back together and hit with the carb cleaner.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,969
I actually had a spare one in my parts bin, it's not the leather plunger, so it's currently temporary.
I did smear a dab of oil on it before I put it back in.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,970
Maybe I'll quit being a dumbass and try driving without the choke closed.
Seems to run better that way.
Jeeeeezzz.
Seems to run better that way.
Jeeeeezzz.
In the winter I need to leave the choke on (at least a little) for a long while due to the header. The fluid heat riser does help but the engine needs to have some heat in the coolant to work.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,972
Old one.
It's unknown when that damage occurred, it may have happened while I was fiddling with the top.
It's unknown when that damage occurred, it may have happened while I was fiddling with the top.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,973
Cheap cornbred gasoline doesn't help anything.
Looks like a leather pump cup. Neatsfoot oil heavy dose. Put it back in; it will work for a while, maybe not perfect.
On a good you can wet form a cup with a round tube the right size - ID is of bore in carb hole and a forming wood dowel who's OD is tune ID - 2x the thickness of the leather. A slight taper in the dowel, with good chamfer at the open end. Cut disk of leather about 5/8" larger than OD. Soak leather in warm water, center on tube, skin side down, insert dowel to push leather in tube, forms into a cup, let dry in tube. Remove, with smaller dowel pressing it out from other end of the tube or push it all the way threw. Trim to depth, Neatsfoot oil. Punch center mounting hole. Install. Start with leather a little thicker than what you have now in the cup (about 1/8")
On a good you can wet form a cup with a round tube the right size - ID is of bore in carb hole and a forming wood dowel who's OD is tune ID - 2x the thickness of the leather. A slight taper in the dowel, with good chamfer at the open end. Cut disk of leather about 5/8" larger than OD. Soak leather in warm water, center on tube, skin side down, insert dowel to push leather in tube, forms into a cup, let dry in tube. Remove, with smaller dowel pressing it out from other end of the tube or push it all the way threw. Trim to depth, Neatsfoot oil. Punch center mounting hole. Install. Start with leather a little thicker than what you have now in the cup (about 1/8")
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
Cheap cornbred gasoline (voodoo magic) doesn’t help anything.
Testify….Corn comes in mason jars it’s not meant for your gas tank..
I’ve been using Lucas Ethanol Stabilizer to try and ward off (some) the effects of E-10. To soon in the “study” to beat the results drum.
You know back in the day Ethanol had a 140 Octane rating and many of the world land speed records were set with that as fuel. Methane was rated as 105 Octane.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,978
Most of the larger gas stations here have ethanol free pumps as well, I just drive my 40 so much I got tired of spending an extra $1 a gallon on the high test.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
In my Tundra the mileage boost vs the extra cost is an exact wash.
I’m not a fan even though I grow it and my livelihood depends on it, still wish it’d go away.
Definitely not worth it if you are driving enough. A can of sea foam helps as well if you dont.
