Thanks for the info ... when I eventually have to replace the original alternator I'll try going out the top because the bottom was a real pain ... turned out that the battery needed replaced and there was a thick uniform coating of corrosion on the inside of the negative battery clamp ... I didn't see this originally because it was so uniform and my eyes aren't what they used to be ... the corrosion was tougher to remove than other corrosion I've wire brushed off in the past ... I had to use the sharp edge of a small electronics flat bladed screwdriver to scrape the corrosion off and out of those vertical slots around the inside of the clamp. I checked the brushes on the alternator (based on someone's recommendation) and blew/shook the carbon dust out and reinstalled the originals since they seemed to have plenty of length remaining. All appears well now.
Alternator Replacement (1 Viewer)
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Thanks for the info ... when I eventually have to replace the original alternator I'll try going out the top because the bottom was a real pain ... turned out that the battery needed replaced and there was a thick uniform coating of corrosion on the inside of the negative battery clamp ... I didn't see this originally because it was so uniform and my eyes aren't what they used to be ... the corrosion was tougher to remove than other corrosion I've wire brushed off in the past ... I had to use the sharp edge of a small electronics flat bladed screwdriver to scrape the corrosion off and out of those vertical slots around the inside of the clamp. I checked the brushes on the alternator (based on someone's recommendation) and blew/shook the carbon dust out and reinstalled the originals since they seemed to have plenty of length remaining. All appears well now.
After thinking about it, it'd be best just to do it the way the factory manual has it. Drain the radiator, remove the hose, etc. Probably much less frustrating (lots of steps though...). If you broke down somewhere out in the field, then go out the top (you'll still take the skip plate off to reach some of the lower bolts on the alternator and the PS pump...
Coldest day of the year so far in Chicago and I attempted to do this in my nonheated garage. Failed miserably after many many hours of trying to simply take the black clip that holds the harness to the side of the alternator off. I had my Charbroil grill running on the other side of the garage to act as an improv propane heater, but that only worked till someone in my family opened the garage door...
I might give this another go later this week, but I might just take my truck to a back alley mechanic since I don't have the patience in this weather.
Does anyone have pictures that managed to get it out of the top? Or advice for taking that one clip off?
I might give this another go later this week, but I might just take my truck to a back alley mechanic since I don't have the patience in this weather.
Does anyone have pictures that managed to get it out of the top? Or advice for taking that one clip off?
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
I got mine out this weekend from the bottom. Didn't remove any cooling hoses or anything else. The clip is held on with a 10mm bolt. It's fairly easy to access from the bottom. Just take the skid plate off and you have access to it.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Check this thread out...
100 series / lx470 alternator replacement quick tips no pictures
It was a huge help to me when I replaced my alternator last week.
100 series / lx470 alternator replacement quick tips no pictures
It was a huge help to me when I replaced my alternator last week.
YardPig
SILVER Star
I replaced alternator and power steering pump today. Lots of room all from the top in 1 hour. 
So quiet now and rock solid charging on the gauge. Lights used to dim at idle and brighten when revving, had whine from power steering pump. I forgot how quiet these v8's are! 250,000 Miles.
So quiet now and rock solid charging on the gauge. Lights used to dim at idle and brighten when revving, had whine from power steering pump. I forgot how quiet these v8's are! 250,000 Miles.
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^^^ Hope you used an OEM alternator. If you used a refurbished, don't return your OEM DENSO alternator. Many at T4R.org got reman alternators (with lifetime guarantee) but replace it once a year!
The only thing that goes bad in terms of generating the current in a DENSO alternator is the brush kit. New brush kit is $23 at the dealer, and install new (Japanese) bearings. It is good for another 250K miles.
The only thing that goes bad in terms of generating the current in a DENSO alternator is the brush kit. New brush kit is $23 at the dealer, and install new (Japanese) bearings. It is good for another 250K miles.
dogdaysindurham
SILVER Star
I've been trying to find OEM parts to do an alternator rebuild on my 2005 100 series; but I have only been able to find made in China replacements for the rectifier and voltage regulator.
So this made me wonder, do the Denso "factory" rebuilds use chinese made rectifiers / voltage regulators replacement parts? Or can they source OEM/JDM/Denso replacement parts?
Toyota does list the combined stator, rectifier, and voltage regulator part # 27039-50370 or 27360-0L021 at >US$500. But not separately and is way more than a remanufactured Denso (210-0607)!
Another interesting finding when researching is that the Toyota 130A 100 series alternator uses avalanche diodes (05-07 trucks)?
The rectifier replacements I've been finding say they are avalanche diode based. The rectifier replacement part number is INR422 (copper heatsinks) or INR433 (aluminum heatsinks) with the following specifications: 117mm OD, M8 x 1.25 Batt. Term, 12-50A avalanche diodes.
The cross listed Denso p/n: 021580-6520
The closest rectifier I can find that is an Toyota OEM part is for the 120A alternator for the 105 series: 27357-17230
New Era has a rectifier p/n: D-097
The voltage regulator replacement is IN6015 (no luck in finding a made in Japan part) with the following specifications: 12 Volt, B-Circuit, IG-S-L-M(FR) Terminals, 14.2 Vset.
The cross listed Denso p/n: 126600-0150
Interestingly, IN6004 looks to be 1 to 1 fit (but not having them physically side by side not 100%), has a higher Voltage set of 14.5.
Also IN6315 looks to be 1 to 1 fit (4 pin squarish plug, but not 100% they would be compatible), has a higher than stock voltage set of 14.35.
The closest voltage regulator Toyota p/n: 27700-50040 has the right connector shape but much larger body.
Oh, New Era a japanese parts company makes a replacement voltage regulator p/n: IVR-5017 this looks to be the best bet for JDM replacement part, but not one seems to stock it stateside.
The first alternator replacement bearing is Toyota P/N:90099-10142 which are bearing std size 6303 : ID x OD X W: 17 x 47 x 14 (mm)
The second alternator replacement bearing is Toyota P/N: 90099-10140 which are bearing std size 6202W: ID x OD X W: 15 x 35 x 15 (mm), (6202 is normally 13 mm wide).
The brush replacement is Toyota P/N: 27370-58460
Will update if I find anything more, but please correct if anything is erroneous! I also emailed New Era to find if they have any US distributors and to confirm that those 2 parts are made in Japan, I also asked them (New Era) if they are the OEM manufacturer of the components.
So this made me wonder, do the Denso "factory" rebuilds use chinese made rectifiers / voltage regulators replacement parts? Or can they source OEM/JDM/Denso replacement parts?
Toyota does list the combined stator, rectifier, and voltage regulator part # 27039-50370 or 27360-0L021 at >US$500. But not separately and is way more than a remanufactured Denso (210-0607)!
Another interesting finding when researching is that the Toyota 130A 100 series alternator uses avalanche diodes (05-07 trucks)?
The rectifier replacements I've been finding say they are avalanche diode based. The rectifier replacement part number is INR422 (copper heatsinks) or INR433 (aluminum heatsinks) with the following specifications: 117mm OD, M8 x 1.25 Batt. Term, 12-50A avalanche diodes.
The cross listed Denso p/n: 021580-6520
The closest rectifier I can find that is an Toyota OEM part is for the 120A alternator for the 105 series: 27357-17230
New Era has a rectifier p/n: D-097
The voltage regulator replacement is IN6015 (no luck in finding a made in Japan part) with the following specifications: 12 Volt, B-Circuit, IG-S-L-M(FR) Terminals, 14.2 Vset.
The cross listed Denso p/n: 126600-0150
Interestingly, IN6004 looks to be 1 to 1 fit (but not having them physically side by side not 100%), has a higher Voltage set of 14.5.
Also IN6315 looks to be 1 to 1 fit (4 pin squarish plug, but not 100% they would be compatible), has a higher than stock voltage set of 14.35.
The closest voltage regulator Toyota p/n: 27700-50040 has the right connector shape but much larger body.
Oh, New Era a japanese parts company makes a replacement voltage regulator p/n: IVR-5017 this looks to be the best bet for JDM replacement part, but not one seems to stock it stateside.
The first alternator replacement bearing is Toyota P/N:90099-10142 which are bearing std size 6303 : ID x OD X W: 17 x 47 x 14 (mm)
The second alternator replacement bearing is Toyota P/N: 90099-10140 which are bearing std size 6202W: ID x OD X W: 15 x 35 x 15 (mm), (6202 is normally 13 mm wide).
The brush replacement is Toyota P/N: 27370-58460
Will update if I find anything more, but please correct if anything is erroneous! I also emailed New Era to find if they have any US distributors and to confirm that those 2 parts are made in Japan, I also asked them (New Era) if they are the OEM manufacturer of the components.
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YardPig
SILVER Star
Denso also lists a 210-0540 that is also a 130 amp for that year.
Need some help / input here. Replaced my alternator in my '00 TLC a few months ago with a denso reman unit with lifetime warranty. So Friday I leave my office and as I'm coasting up to a stop light all the lights on the dash come on - can't say for sure if power steering was lost - two seconds later they're off and truck is running. I didn't have to restart it and never took it out of gear. Went to my appointment puzzled by what happened and when I got back in the truck an hour or less later the truck won't start - no lights other than door open, no accessories, nothing. Get on the phone with my shop and we're all scratching our heads - wondering if something in the ignition switch. I have a jumper pack with me so I hook it up and truck sluggishly starts - great - but wait. So I'm calling the shop back as I'm sitting in the drive out of the business and a vehicle approaches from the rear so I put my window down to wave them around and as I hit the flashers the truck dies. I'm able to get it started again With the jumper pack so I pull back into a parking spot as I talk with the shop - everyone is thinking alternator at this point. A guy from the shop is swinging by on his way home so I stick tight. Decide to test drive it in the lot and it dies within 100 yards or so so I drift back into a parking spot and wait. He was unable to jump it and couldn't get the battery to charge while attached to his running vehicle for a while.
I took the battery back to Sams since it was only 18 months old - at first they tell me it's good but needs to be recharged. They put it on the charger and call me 45 mintues later to tell me the battery won't hold a charge and there may be a couple of bad cells and to come back and they give me a new one. Walk out with new batter in hand. Call O'Reilly after that about how we need to work the alternator warranty replacement and I decide to go buy the new one and will take the bad one back for full refund per their suggestion. Go install the new battery myself and the truck starts as normal. Leave the alternator there assuming it will be installed.
Just got the call from the shop and they alternator is testing fine. What?!?!? Thought the alternator took over once the truck is started.
Guy at the shop calls a buddy who rebuilds alternators and starters since he's puzzled too. He was told that if a battery is completely toast it could cause the vehicle to die because the alternator is trying its hardest to charge the battery and any additional load by accessories, etc. may be too much.
Any ideas here? Do I trust that a new battery is all that was needed since the alternator apparently tests normal? Can alternators have intermittent issues - such that it tests normal, but may not tomorrow? Is there some other part that could be in play here?
I took the battery back to Sams since it was only 18 months old - at first they tell me it's good but needs to be recharged. They put it on the charger and call me 45 mintues later to tell me the battery won't hold a charge and there may be a couple of bad cells and to come back and they give me a new one. Walk out with new batter in hand. Call O'Reilly after that about how we need to work the alternator warranty replacement and I decide to go buy the new one and will take the bad one back for full refund per their suggestion. Go install the new battery myself and the truck starts as normal. Leave the alternator there assuming it will be installed.
Just got the call from the shop and they alternator is testing fine. What?!?!? Thought the alternator took over once the truck is started.
Guy at the shop calls a buddy who rebuilds alternators and starters since he's puzzled too. He was told that if a battery is completely toast it could cause the vehicle to die because the alternator is trying its hardest to charge the battery and any additional load by accessories, etc. may be too much.
Any ideas here? Do I trust that a new battery is all that was needed since the alternator apparently tests normal? Can alternators have intermittent issues - such that it tests normal, but may not tomorrow? Is there some other part that could be in play here?
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
Can anybody tell me if a alternator from a 2006 will work on my 2000...
thanks..
thanks..
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
Some question..
Polar bear has been flawless since we got him, yesterday it totally dye on us on a really busy street..
I did a dynamat install, including taking the crappy radio to cover thebtranny tunnel, so maybe a cable touch ground or something, but besides that I'm puzzle,..
No dash lights at first, then not tach, but the turn sygnals still work fine, the battery Is less than year old and of pretty decent quality..
I jump start about 7 times, the minute I took the jumper cables of it will dye right away..
Not to experince with cars but I had work on bmw motorcycles since forever (very similar to a car actually)
hoser
SILVER Star
Yes but you would need to change the connector on the vehicle side from a 3-pin to a 4-pin connector. The 4th pin isn't used. You are going from a 100A alternator to a 130A alternator. AFAIK, the fuse remains the same (100A). When I looked at the EWD for the 2003+, it said 100A fuse. Might want to confirm though.
Don't think so- they are different applications.
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
The 2006 was sold anyway..
My struck is stranded but I don't want to spend all the time install ''just any'' so may as well get a better unit..
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
Okay mega clueless question, how do I know if I need a alternator....??
Our Polar Bear has been working flawlessly for the last two years, a few days back I took the interior apart to install Dynamat, took ALL of it, I also disconnect the double din radio that was kind of a Hack job (from a audio store actually) so maybe one of the wires is causing a short circuit, but so far I can not find it..
The truck left us stranded two days ago and let me tell you with two kiddos it was not fun..
Yesterday I got a group 31 Optima and I made sure is full charge, but sincerely I think I have a even deeper issues, I check fuse 25 and is fine (I check all the fuses on the kick panel, all fine, but my dash is death except for the turn synals and seat belt warning..
Where do I check (I have no voltmeter, actually I have very few tools at the moment all in storage) but I don't want to get stranded again..
Just in case I'm carrying the old battery around showing 13.6 and the require tools to exchange them..
I'm pretty sure is a really easy answers/method I just don't know it..
Our Polar Bear has been working flawlessly for the last two years, a few days back I took the interior apart to install Dynamat, took ALL of it, I also disconnect the double din radio that was kind of a Hack job (from a audio store actually) so maybe one of the wires is causing a short circuit, but so far I can not find it..
The truck left us stranded two days ago and let me tell you with two kiddos it was not fun..
Yesterday I got a group 31 Optima and I made sure is full charge, but sincerely I think I have a even deeper issues, I check fuse 25 and is fine (I check all the fuses on the kick panel, all fine, but my dash is death except for the turn synals and seat belt warning..
Where do I check (I have no voltmeter, actually I have very few tools at the moment all in storage) but I don't want to get stranded again..
Just in case I'm carrying the old battery around showing 13.6 and the require tools to exchange them..
I'm pretty sure is a really easy answers/method I just don't know it..
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
If I understand this comment correctlly
I can get a pre 03 sequoia alternator and it will fit on my 2000 with out changing the socket connector..??
Please tell me I'm right
^ I don't know about MY 2000-2002 Sequoia being the same as '98-'02 LC regarding the wire configuration and plug shape; I was referring to LC.
