Alternator failure... what else to replace "while in there"? (1 Viewer)

[WannaCruise]

Hello all, the alternator on my 2005 LX470 with 150k miles has failed after a week or so of letting me know via slightly squealing. Totally dead now, and I need to dig in and replace it. I'm looking at the Denso 210-1099 as a replacement, but I want to proactively replace the tensioner and idler pulleys and drive belt. They (along with the water pump) were replaced by the dealer 12 years ago at 75k miles, so I may as well replace... I'm assuming Original Toyota is the way to go with those pulleys, right?

Is there anything else that should be done at this point? Timing belt service is close to being due soon, but I'm not ready to do that quite yet...

 

[Eyedaho]

Get a replacement connector. A lot of people find they're brittle and break when removed, which would suck to not have the ~$10 part on hand.

 

[flintknapper]

Get a replacement connector. A lot of people find they're brittle and break when removed, which would suck to not have the ~$10 part on hand.

^^^^^

This. Good reminder.

More than a few people have had the connector (on the wiring harness) crumble when removing it from the alternator.

So as @Eyedaho wisely suggests, best to have one on hand before starting the job. The aren't expensive....so IF you don't need it, no big deal.

 

[WannaCruise]

That's a great point @Eyedaho, there is nothing worse than having to stop a repair due to small things like that. I'm looking for the factory part number for mine, I did find this assembly on eBay, but I'd prefer OEM if possible:

ALTERNATOR REPAIR PLUG 4-WIRE PIGTAIL CONNECTOR TOYOTA LAND CRUISER LEXUS LX470 | eBay

LEXUS LX470. 2003 LEXUS LX470 8 Cyl, 285CI, 4.7L Engine. 2004 LEXUS LX470 8 Cyl, 285CI, 4.7L Engine. 2005 LEXUS LX470 8 Cyl, 285CI, 4.7L Engine. TOYOTA LAND CRUISER. 2003 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 8 Cyl, 285CI, 4.7L Engine.

www.ebay.com

 

[2001LC]

I've never broken one, so I don't have P/N. But dealership can give you the Part numbers for OEM wire housing block. Last 5 of P/N (suffix), is actually on wire housing block (plug).

It was @flintknapper, that first showed me how we get P/N form these parts.

 

[WannaCruise]

The PN for the 3 way pin on the older units is 90980-11349

PN for 4 Wire unit is 90980-11964

 

[hoser]

@Wanna Cruz

130 amp alternator install in 00 LX

The "M or FR" pin is not used. Confirm the white wire is in the M position and cut off. Confirm all the wiring actually. I did not remove any mounting “tab” as seen in post 3. It fit as is. When installing your new alternator, you might find the 3 prong connector disintegrate upon removal and...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[flintknapper]

I've never broken one, so I don't have P/N. But dealership can give you the Part numbers for OEM wire housing block. Last 5 of P/N (suffix), is actually on wire housing block (plug).

It was @flintknapper, that first showed me how we get P/N form these parts.

Correct. IF you can find the suffix number on a connector then you can add the prefix '90980' (prefix number) for "MOST" connectors to get the part number (to order).

 

[Patron100LC]

Why you wouldn’t do the timing belt service if you’re considering replacing the water pump? You’re there already, just finish it with a couple more pulleys, a belt and a tensioner.
Specially if yours is already due.. if not, just replace the alternator and drive.

Edited after re-reading. Wp isn’t in the plans. Ok.

You might consider getting a new radiator hose and clamps if disconnecting to remove alternator, mine leaked even though I replaced it 15k miles earlier..

 

[flintknapper]

Why you wouldn’t do the timing belt service if you’re considering replacing the water pump? You’re there already, just finish it with a couple more pulleys, a belt and a tensioner.
Specially if yours is already due.. if not, just replace the alternator and drive.

Edited after re-reading. Wp isn’t in the plans. Ok.

You might consider getting a new radiator hose and clamps if disconnecting to remove alternator, mine leaked even though I replaced it 15k miles earlier..

No need to remove the the lower radiator hose (bringing the alternator out the bottom). There is room to 'snake' it by the hose, but its tight. The alt can also be brought out the 'top'. I've done it both ways. Equally challenging.....just for different reasons.

I will never understand why Toyota chose to put the alternator and A/C compressor way down in the nether-regions of the engine compartment where they will be exposed to the most amount of dust, dirt, water, mud, foreign objects, etc.

And the icing on the cake: Put the starter UNDER the intake manifold. Who signed off on this? Was 'Sake' involved?

 

[WannaCruise]

I ended up extracting the starter from the wheel well access panel. It was so easy that way, almost like it was designed that way. I have AHC so I jacked the car to high and I had plenty of clearance, otherwise it might have required wheel removal. Either way, I would suggest anyone else doing this job use this approach.

 

[reconranger]

I've had the Denso replacement for awhile and have had no issues. I think I removed from both below and above. I had to redo it because I didn't realize that the power steering pump, which is right above the alternator, was leaking and causing the alternator failure. If you remove some of the bolts that tie the radiator/transmission hoses to the radiator/frame, you will have room for alternator replacement. Good luck.