All done but Spark Plugs.... (1 Viewer)

[romelm]

Had my 1994 80 for about 1 month now and done the below, have not attempted the spark plugs because I am afraid of getting number 6 out and I am also afraid I may break one off try to get it out. Car runs and idles fine. Also the plug wires look OK. Should I do the plugs anyways?? Seller did not know when they were done last.

- New Cap
- New Rotor
- Oil Changed: Motor, Tranny, Diffs and Transfer Case
- Accelerator Cable Changed
- Air Filter
- New Wiper Blades
- 7 Pin Mode
- CDL Switch Installed
- New Tires

 

[NLXTACY]

Its not that big a deal. Just move the Modulator out of the way. I've never thought it was such a big deal.

 

[romelm]

Yeah, they said the same thing about the front fill bolt for the front diff("its not a big deal, just use a breaker bar, heat it up...etc and it will come right off"), till I rounded it off trying to get it off for 1 hour and then had to pay someone at a shop to remove it. Things are a little harder than they seem for some folks. The ones that don't have an issue are the ones with the experience. For me, if I do one thing and screw it up, like the above: I tend to get afraid to try something else that involves something other then a philips screw head to take it off -Maybe its just me.....

 

[scottryana]

Yep not a big deal pull the heater hose forward and slip an extension and spark plug socket between it and the bulkhead.

 

[NLXTACY]

Yeah, they said the same thing about the front fill bolt for the front diff("its not a big deal, just use a breaker bar, heat it up...etc and it will come right off"), till I rounded it off trying to get it off for 1 hour and then had to pay someone at a shop to remove it. Things are a little harder than they seem for some folks. The ones that don't have an issue are the ones with the experience. For me, if I do one thing and screw it up, like the above: I tend to get afraid to try something else that involves something other then a philips screw head to take it off -Maybe its just me.....

Two different issues. I'm in SoCal, no rust. Taking off my diff plugs was utterly uneventful. Replaced them anyway. But if you live in salt and snow and rust you WILL see issues that the dry states typically don't.

 

[missouriman]

all ways remove the fill plug, before you remove the drain plug!!!

 

[romelm]

I am in San Diego. We should have a local support group here so when Newbs run into issues, someone local can swing though and save the day!

 

[romelm]

Yup, I did that. Once I rounded it off, I was ok to drive it to a shop since the drain plug was not touched yet.

 

[Corbet]

I do my plugs every 50K. Spray a little WD40 down there if your really worried. But they should spin right out. #6 is easy with the right selection of extensions. I find spraying a little silicon in the socket when installing the new ones makes it easier. Otherwise the extension will pull out of the socket.

 

[Blade 80LC]

For me, if I do one thing and screw it up, like the above: I tend to get afraid to try something else that involves something other then a philips screw head to take it off
- Maybe its just me.....

It's not just you.

 

[rlgdestroyu]

I kept losing the socket when doing mine, so I just wrapped some electrical tape to keep the socket on the extension.

 

[Qball]

I kept losing the socket when doing mine, so I just wrapped some electrical tape to keep the socket on the extension.

I do my plugs every 50K. Spray a little WD40 down there if your really worried. But they should spin right out. #6 is easy with the right selection of extensions. I find spraying a little silicon in the socket when installing the new ones makes it easier. Otherwise the extension will pull out of the socket.

This will fix your losing socket problem(unless you have really cheap socket with no indentation):
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-38-in-drive-quick-release-extension-bar-set-67976.html

 

[Corbet]

This will fix your losing socket problem(unless you have really cheap socket with no indentation):
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-pc-38-in-drive-quick-release-extension-bar-set-67976.html

Those work work too

 

[jonheld]

Diff fill/drain plugs really want 6 point sockets. I took a new 6 point 24mm impact socket and ground off the chamfer so it seats correctly on the thin shoulder plugs. Never an issue.
I'm a big believer in 6 point everything when working on my trucks. 12 point sockets are just begging to round off corners if you need to apply torque.
For spark plugs, I always use some anti-seize or moly grease on the threads. Actually, living in the rust belt, anytime a fastener of any kind is removed, some form of corrosion preventative is used.

 

[Heckraiser]

I'm one of those people who usually breaks stuff or has to ghetto rig temporary solutions when I work on vehicles, but changing the plugs in my LX was utterly uneventful--aside from the fact my VC gasket tube ring thingies were like shotglasses full of oil

 

[Landseer]

I had a problem getting my diff plugs out as well, ended up buying an impact wrench- really easy to get the diff plugs out with that. Spark plugs were pretty easy, only problem I had was my spark plug socket tended to stick to the plug more than the ratchet extension but that was fixed with a little bit of grease. Next time I'm definitely buying a spark plug socket that holds them in with a magnet rather than the little rubber thing.

 

[Hornd]

Diff Plugs play nice if heated 1st then, hit with penetrate while still hot. I used a 1/2 drive and 6pt impact drive (Harbor freight, cheap) and all 3 where cake and I live in Rustbelt.
Proper Technique is the key. Don't just go at it with the socket.

 

[BILT4ME]

12 point sockets should be outlawed......

 

[romelm]

I also did the spark plugs, those came out light butter. I also put anti-seize on the threads. I feel good about myself right now.....thanks to you guys!