Aisin 80 series factory winch rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter asutherland
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Good stuff Andrew! Its nice when a wheeling buddy gets good/new/better extraction tools. 
Is there a rope sheath one can slip over the line for the first couple of drum wraps to increase friction? When Jay got his synthetic rope it had an abrasion sheath and a drum wrap sheath included. (IIRC)
Whatever the case that winch will be as good as new and with any luck we'll be able to try it out this weekend.
Cam
Is there a rope sheath one can slip over the line for the first couple of drum wraps to increase friction? When Jay got his synthetic rope it had an abrasion sheath and a drum wrap sheath included. (IIRC)
Whatever the case that winch will be as good as new and with any luck we'll be able to try it out this weekend.
Cam
There's a ton of information out there on installing one's new synthetic cable onto a winch. But none for the Aisin winch. Warns seem to tend to have a hole in the drum that the cable passes through, others have a little hoop near the bottom of the drum that you loop the cable through and then pass back along the drum.
http://www.winchline.com/documents/Viking Truck Winchline Instructions v1.2.pdf
The Aisin winch has a slotted hole in the side of the drum, that the wire cable passes through, and the hooks into a little sleeve thing welded on the outside of the drum. The end of the cable has a knob thing on it. There's also a small set screw (allen) that presses against the knob to keep it from popping upwards in the welded sleeve.
What is the best way to attach my new synthetic cable? The end of my cable has one of the electrical eye crimp in it, like this:
I would suggest drilling and tapping a hole on the drum somewhere and then cutting down a bolt as req'd so there is no interference.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #44
Good stuff Andrew! Its nice when a wheeling buddy gets good/new/better extraction tools.
Is there a rope sheath one can slip over the line for the first couple of drum wraps to increase friction? When Jay got his synthetic rope it had an abrasion sheath and a drum wrap sheath included. (IIRC)
Whatever the case that winch will be as good as new and with any luck we'll be able to try it out this weekend.
Cam
Hey Cam, there are two sheaths. Drum wrap and abrasion. And I lucked out, the lug on the end of the syn line was a perfect fit for the existing catch (where the wire lug fit in). The only way it'd come out is if it pulled the line right out of the lug, which is unlikely as long as I keep the bottom row of wraps on the drum.
Success! Winch mounted, hawse fairlead mounted, (some help filling the old holes would be awesome!!) bumper back on, new syn line strung.
Pics to come later today.More than likely they could. They're only maybe 2 mm too thick.
I'm coming into this a little late and hope no one thinks I'm trying to hijack this thread. I learned a lot reading this, but need some help/advice. I'm also rebuilding my stock winch (yet to get the point of buying synthetic rope) and can't find a source for all the rubber seals. I searched for many hours on this site - no luck Mine got damaged in the tear down. Do they come as a kit? Anyone know of a source in North America?
Akella
SILVER Star
. Shoot me pm and i will get them for you.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #47
No problem at all Mr Comox
So... pictures. Since my fairlead wouldn't work with the poly rollers, I decided on a Hawse instead. Removed the oem fairlead and drilled/bolted in the new Hawse. Decided to partake on a little humour after a couple beer and noticing the new fairlead looked an awful lot like a mouth...
Strung in the new winch line for the first drum wrap. Then bolted the winch to the bumper, mounted the bumper and strung the reset of the line in under tension. My neighbours must love me... winching to my buddy's truck down the road at 11pm at night
Got to stress test my winch the very next day (yesterday). It seems to pull alright. Still not as strong as I would like, but it's not stopping completely it just slows down considerably under load.
So... pictures. Since my fairlead wouldn't work with the poly rollers, I decided on a Hawse instead. Removed the oem fairlead and drilled/bolted in the new Hawse. Decided to partake on a little humour after a couple beer and noticing the new fairlead looked an awful lot like a mouth...
Strung in the new winch line for the first drum wrap. Then bolted the winch to the bumper, mounted the bumper and strung the reset of the line in under tension. My neighbours must love me... winching to my buddy's truck down the road at 11pm at night
Got to stress test my winch the very next day (yesterday). It seems to pull alright. Still not as strong as I would like, but it's not stopping completely it just slows down considerably under load.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #48
Well, it's been a couple weeks now with no issues. But last night, I noticed a pretty significant drip of ATF type F coming from my front bumper
I cleaned it up, put some cardboard underneath, and left it for the night. This morning, about 20 ml of ATF was on the cardboard.
GRRR... I loathe to remove the whole bumper again. Does anyone have any ideas? I never opened the planetary gear assembly section, only drained the oil and replaced via the drain plug on the side. I can see the drain plug from underneath the truck, it's dry all around it.
I cleaned it up, put some cardboard underneath, and left it for the night. This morning, about 20 ml of ATF was on the cardboard.
GRRR... I loathe to remove the whole bumper again. Does anyone have any ideas? I never opened the planetary gear assembly section, only drained the oil and replaced via the drain plug on the side. I can see the drain plug from underneath the truck, it's dry all around it.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #49
Had another look from underneath the bumper, I can't figure out where it's coming from without taking the whole thing off. I put a little cup underneath the one way valve of the motor, and collected some in there... (how does that make any sense??) but it's still leaking elsewhere too. Gawwd!
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #50
Anyone?
It's getting pulled back off this weekend so I can see wtf is going on.
On a side note, I was having a hard time finding a hook w/safety latch that would fit the re-inforced stainless steel thimble on the synthetic line. Most 3/8 hooks (the perfect size) wouldn't fit the thimble. I contacted Warn directly, and they pointed me to their Warn Model 87881 hook, which has a 1" thimble opening - the perfect size.
It's getting pulled back off this weekend so I can see wtf is going on.
On a side note, I was having a hard time finding a hook w/safety latch that would fit the re-inforced stainless steel thimble on the synthetic line. Most 3/8 hooks (the perfect size) wouldn't fit the thimble. I contacted Warn directly, and they pointed me to their Warn Model 87881 hook, which has a 1" thimble opening - the perfect size.
Is it possibly you jostled the tranny cooler lines when you were messing around down there last time?
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #52
It's possible, I did consider that. I looked at the lines from above and the outside of them are dry, however its possible I can't see it with the bumper on. Whatever is dripping must be dripping directly into the bumper.
I just finished putting my winch together and may have an idea. Your first posts showed the motor side of the winch disassembled. There are three rubber seals that may be potential leak points. Two are under the drum and the third is the small skateboard bearing-sized one in the motor mount. I would suspect this got a bit of a work out when you took it apart and now has sealing problems. I got a set of these seals from Akella.
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #54
Alright guys, I think I have it figured out. A friend (WussyPup here on MUD) came over to help me remove my bumper. When I took the armature section off the winch drum, the little seal (round, thick, about the size of a loony) just kind of fell out. I inserted it back in, and it was difficult... I had to use the back end of my ratchet.
We then drained the rest of the ATF (because I had no idea how much was in there at that point) and refilled. I cleaned it up and let it sit with the armature off, on my work bench, for more than a day. No leaks of any sort. Which was different from the first time I removed the armature - it leaked immediately. I figured it was par for the course, because I had the components separated, but perhaps it wasn't - maybe I knocked the seal loose when I was in there the first time.
It's now back on the truck for a couple weeks now, and no leaks so far
We then drained the rest of the ATF (because I had no idea how much was in there at that point) and refilled. I cleaned it up and let it sit with the armature off, on my work bench, for more than a day. No leaks of any sort. Which was different from the first time I removed the armature - it leaked immediately. I figured it was par for the course, because I had the components separated, but perhaps it wasn't - maybe I knocked the seal loose when I was in there the first time.
It's now back on the truck for a couple weeks now, and no leaks so far
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #55
More good news, my special order from Warn (that Westshore Spring brought in) arrived today. It has a wider 1 inch opening to accept the thicker re-enforced thimble of the synthetic line. Warn Model 87881
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #56
To revive my old thread... an update. I spent the better part of an afternoon a couple weekends ago rescuing a friend's *cough* JEEP from the side of a snowy embankment that was giving way. Ok, it was a bad spot, most of us would need the help there regardless of the vehicle. Anyway... regardless.. after I got up the next morning I noticed a pool of ATF on my driveway. Again. 
This time, since I had already had an issue with it, I played it the smart way - removed the bumper, removed the winch, set it on my bench in the shop... put the bumper back on. Then ordered all new winch seals from Akella
Some of the parts were on back order, but he was eventually able to receive them, and promptly shipped them to me here. Today the Jeep friend, Morgan, helped with the winch re-seal.
Prior to starting, I suggest you get a copy of this if you don't have it: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u.../Winch_Rebuild/fj_hdj_hzj-80_series_winch.pdf
I didn't end up pulling the planetary gears out, but since there was no seals in that end of the winch. It wasn't leaking from the flat cork type gasket: GASKET, WINCH GEAR CASE COVER: 38121-60170, I decided best to leave it alone.
First step was to remove the armature from the brake area. 3 bolts hold that on. Off it came...
Then removed the drain plug. Tried using an allen key, which was threatening to strip the inside... so I put an allen key driver on the impact gun and gave it a quick zzzziiipp! Came out perfectly.
My leak was coming from the small oil seal at the end of the winch where it connects to the armature. SEAL, GEAR CASE COVER OIL: 38186-60170
You can see the O-ring on the armature side (RING, O (FOR WINCH MOTOR): 90301-59044) that was keeping the leaking atf from dripping out there, instead sending it into the armature housing. It was actually leaking THROUGH the armature and out the water drain plug in the armature housing. So I opened up the armature housing for a quick visual to make sure it was all Ok - which it was.
I also inspected and cleaned up the solenoid pack for good measure.
Next part was difficult... the brake area, had to be removed, which meant the one end of the winch needed to pop out of it's factory dowels. Which were corroded as sh*t and not easy. PB blaster did it's thing while I cleaned the solenoid pack, and a half hour later it finally came free.
Then the winch drum pulls off. Inside the drum is the clutch pack / brake system, which IF you pull the drum off on end, will all come apart and fall out in your hands and make you panic. Put the whole winch flat on the bench and slide the drum off to the side and it should be better.
Picture of the clutch discs, in the order they are supposed to go. They are keyed too which helps.
Here's another seal that I replaced... (2x) RING, WINCH 38187-60170 - there is one of these on each end of where the drum slides on. Akella says these are usually what causes the leak (although for me it was the small oil seal previously mentioned). But I had the seals so I replaced them. The new ones were tighter fit which is always a good sign.
One on the gear end: RING, WINCH 38187-60170
And one on the other end: RING, WINCH 38187-60170
After the new seals were on, I put MP grease where appropriate (manual says where, basically any surface that mates and spins), then put the drum back on, the put the clutch assembly into the drum, finally putting the aluminum end back on the other side.
Then used the old oil seal and a socket to pound the new one in, sealing it up nice After that was in, put the new O ring (RING, O (FOR WINCH MOTOR): 90301-59044) on the armature housing end, and put the 3 bolts back in.
Then put the 0.9L of ATF Type F fluid in, re-install the line, and then re-install on the truck!
This time, since I had already had an issue with it, I played it the smart way - removed the bumper, removed the winch, set it on my bench in the shop... put the bumper back on. Then ordered all new winch seals from AkellaSome of the parts were on back order, but he was eventually able to receive them, and promptly shipped them to me here. Today the Jeep friend, Morgan, helped with the winch re-seal.
Prior to starting, I suggest you get a copy of this if you don't have it: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u.../Winch_Rebuild/fj_hdj_hzj-80_series_winch.pdf
I didn't end up pulling the planetary gears out, but since there was no seals in that end of the winch. It wasn't leaking from the flat cork type gasket: GASKET, WINCH GEAR CASE COVER: 38121-60170, I decided best to leave it alone.
First step was to remove the armature from the brake area. 3 bolts hold that on. Off it came...
Then removed the drain plug. Tried using an allen key, which was threatening to strip the inside... so I put an allen key driver on the impact gun and gave it a quick zzzziiipp! Came out perfectly.
My leak was coming from the small oil seal at the end of the winch where it connects to the armature. SEAL, GEAR CASE COVER OIL: 38186-60170
You can see the O-ring on the armature side (RING, O (FOR WINCH MOTOR): 90301-59044) that was keeping the leaking atf from dripping out there, instead sending it into the armature housing. It was actually leaking THROUGH the armature and out the water drain plug in the armature housing. So I opened up the armature housing for a quick visual to make sure it was all Ok - which it was.
I also inspected and cleaned up the solenoid pack for good measure.
Next part was difficult... the brake area, had to be removed, which meant the one end of the winch needed to pop out of it's factory dowels. Which were corroded as sh*t and not easy. PB blaster did it's thing while I cleaned the solenoid pack, and a half hour later it finally came free.
Then the winch drum pulls off. Inside the drum is the clutch pack / brake system, which IF you pull the drum off on end, will all come apart and fall out in your hands and make you panic. Put the whole winch flat on the bench and slide the drum off to the side and it should be better.
Picture of the clutch discs, in the order they are supposed to go. They are keyed too which helps.
Here's another seal that I replaced... (2x) RING, WINCH 38187-60170 - there is one of these on each end of where the drum slides on. Akella says these are usually what causes the leak (although for me it was the small oil seal previously mentioned). But I had the seals so I replaced them. The new ones were tighter fit which is always a good sign.
One on the gear end: RING, WINCH 38187-60170
And one on the other end: RING, WINCH 38187-60170
After the new seals were on, I put MP grease where appropriate (manual says where, basically any surface that mates and spins), then put the drum back on, the put the clutch assembly into the drum, finally putting the aluminum end back on the other side.
Then used the old oil seal and a socket to pound the new one in, sealing it up nice
After that was in, put the new O ring (RING, O (FOR WINCH MOTOR): 90301-59044) on the armature housing end, and put the 3 bolts back in. Then put the 0.9L of ATF Type F fluid in, re-install the line, and then re-install on the truck!
Akella
SILVER Star
Nice write up @asutherland
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #58
Thanks Akella, and thanks for the awesome prices on oem parts
asutherland
VA7 HDT
- Thread starter
- #59
Looks like DropBox removed the ability to use public links of photos in the BBcode...... Fack.
Trying to update the posts with new image codes, but there is no Edit button?
Trying to update the posts with new image codes, but there is no Edit button?
I'd like to see all the pics again as well. Preparing to install my own Aisin unit.
