adjusting the valves

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Okay, I just had this discussion with a friend who wanted the "best" way to adjust valves on his cruiser. This is what I gave him. Number 1: (you only have to do this every 100,000 miles or so) make sure your rockers are machined flat, you must remove your rocker assemblies and machine them with a dremel tool with a fine sand paper drum. This will ensure that your adjustments are true (any wear on the rocker face where it contacts the valve stem will NOT allow the feeler gauge to get a true reading). Number 2: make a dial gauge that you can insert under the distributor rotor, this gauge will have a mark at 12:00, 2:00, 4:00, 6:00, 8:00, and 10:00 o'clock (I actually have my distributor body marked at these points). After warming the engine up, removing all parts that are in the way (aircleaner, valve cover, etc. ), bring the engine to #1 top dead center (both valves on #1 cyl loose with timing mark in line on flywheel). Insert dial gauge with distributor rotor pointing at 12:00 o'clock position under distributor rotor and adjust #1 cyl valves . Turn crankshaft clockwise to 2:00 o'clock position and adjust #5 cyl valves. Continue procedure in firing order (153642 also known as 15-36-24 or to young, to old, just right. I never forgot the firing order on a 6 cyl since that, even thou I'm 58 years old now:)).
 
Continue procedure in firing order (153642 also known as 15-36-24 or to young, to old, just right. I never forgot the firing order on a 6 cyl since that, even thou I'm 58 years old now:)).

Correction to Bards post: 1536*24* , not 153642. That would be, "too young, too old, really too old"
 
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:eek: holy batman thread revival - so, what exactly was the question this time around :confused:
 
isnt it also terrible advice to heat the rockers up with a dremel or sanding drum? i thought they were tempered and had to be honed flat. :confused:

also, this (credit gusb):
valve_02.jpg
 
The issue I have with adjusting while running is trying to jump up and down in sync. Next time I'm going to put one end of my kids teeter totter over the engine, connect a strap to a rocker arm. Lay down, go up and down with rocker and just adjust easily! I see no problem with this idea, do you? ;)

...via IH8MUD app
 
isnt it also terrible advice to heat the rockers up with a dremel or sanding drum? i thought they were tempered and had to be honed flat. :confused:

also, this (credit gusb):

I also question the use of the words "machine them" when referring to the use of a dremel tool. Using a dremel on an internal engine component should not be considered machining! :lol:
 
Checking valve lash/rocker clearance/"valve adjustment", is done while the engine is running--yes, you may say "old School" however, in my opinion, this is the only way to get it right.(you don't drive your car around the block with the engine off--if you adjust the valves when it is "off", it won't be the same when it's "on") You can't adjust for differences in operating temps if you do it when it is off(or cold). You just have to get your hands into the rock rythum(sp?) of the engine. It needs to be at, or near normal operating temp when the adjustments are made. Even doing it this way has some subtle drawbacks-after changing one cylinder, you will change combustion characteristics in that cylinder; now you need to pause and let the temps stabilize before going on to the next-some folks have even gone to the extent of putting the valve cover back on while this happens, to keep everything heated.
The only exception to this would be if you are adjusting valves on an air cooled horizontal engine(eg. VW or Porche)-those you HAVE to do cold(or risk locking the engine due to lack of lubrication-since all the oil will get pumped out onto the ground/floor before you're done)plus, they need to be really sloppy cold-to get hot tight.
 
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That's the truth. I remember back when --racing a Ford Sprint 260-hydraulic lifters--used to crank those suckers down to the bottom so they wouldn't float . Spent many a day adjusting my 265 Chevy valves with oil splattering all over the place--but, you know what? seems like all the guys who claimed this method didn't work always seemed to be in last place at the end of the day--
Been doing some research on this and maybe the folks who do the cold adjustments may have a good point--somehow the specs have taken into account the thermal expansion of a lot of engine types, and the combined experience of lots of folks doing this has resulted in a boatload of data to indicate cold adjustments are pretty darn close.
 
This whole deal about TDC and gauges and firing order and having a manual to show you what's intake and exhaust is way too complicated. I just put it in high gear and push it until the first rocker is fully loose. Look at the manifolds to see if it's Intake or Exhaust, and measure. Repeat for the next one... It's not rocket science. I'll be done before you finish looking it up in the manual.
 
isnt it also terrible advice to heat the rockers up with a dremel or sanding drum? i thought they were tempered and had to be honed flat. :confused:

also, this (credit gusb):
View attachment 864587

Here's the rest of the adjustment order (there's a second figure) from the FSM

image.jpg
 

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