Adjusting headlights in a new 200 (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Is this our height sensor? If so, leaving this here for those who haven't crawled under the truck to have a visual.View attachment 2858954
That is the correct part for my '16 land cruiser. The dog bone looking silver thing taped to the top in this photo (it isn't oriented like this in operation) is what TJM and others replace.

Here's what I have that I am going to replace mine with:
35C5BA5F-4AFF-44FF-BC4F-EF73839707B0.jpeg
 
That is the correct part for my '16 land cruiser. The dog bone looking silver thing taped to the top in this photo (it isn't oriented like this in operation) is what TJM and others replace.

Here's what I have that I am going to replace mine with:
View attachment 2858959
I hope it's adjustable enough to solve the issue. Is it rust resistant? It's going to get a lot of dirt and water on it.
 
I hope it's adjustable enough to solve the issue. Is it rust resistant? It's going to get a lot of dirt and water on it.
Well, it was made for Weber Carburetors, which are exposed to the same kinds of conditions, so I hope so.

This specific linkage has a range of 3.5 inches (88.9mm) to 4.5 inches (114.3mm). TJM recommends that the spacing on their part initially be set at 90mm from pivot to pivot.
 
There should be a dash light that comes on momentarily at start up that should then go off, mine lights up momentarily. If it stays on, then there is a problem with the system. I would assume Toyota would not have a warning light for a system that is not installed on our trucks. There also would not be a rotational sensor on the rear suspension if there was no auto headlight adjustment system.
checked yesterday afternoon and I saw no height adjustment sensor or motors on the back of the headlights. I ended up manually adjusting them down two turns on the bolt.
 
checked yesterday afternoon and I saw no height adjustment sensor or motors on the back of the headlights. I ended up manually adjusting them down two turns on the bolt.
The motors are internal to the headlight bucket. But yes manual adjustment as the new starting point is a good move. Just don't go too far with those.. someone had the screw adjuster come apart internal to the headlight and had to replace the whole thing. Two turns should be fine.
 
checked yesterday afternoon and I saw no height adjustment sensor or motors on the back of the headlights. I ended up manually adjusting them down two turns on the bolt.
On mine, the height/load sensor is on the us driver side rear suspension (part shown above, and visible through the wheel opening - edit: you need to look from ground level with your head in front of the drivers side rear tire), and the motors are internal to the headlight enclosure.
 
Last edited:
Laying in the floor in front of the drivers side rear tire, looking up and back:
Ok I lied I do have it on my 21. Headlights dont move tho. Not when I start it or turn it on. Like I said earlier I feel like they used to move up/down when I first bought it.
 
Ok I lied I do have it on my 21. Headlights dont move tho. Not when I start it or turn it on. Like I said earlier I feel like they used to move up/down when I first bought it.
I think they are only meant to move when the adjuster needs to… When I adjusted mine, once I turned the car on I saw it moved down. The other scenario where they move may be hard to notice but it would be within its intended use which is when you load the vehicle and the rake changes, this is likely very gradual and really hard to observe because technically by the light moving when loading the vehicle it makes it seem like it’s not moving, since it’s whole purpose is to sustain its aim… I hope that makes sense…
 
people with iron man stage 3 kits -
were you able to get your adjustment set using the supplied hardware?

My installer had the supplied bracket flipped; once corrected, my headlights are a lot closer to right.

My setup steps:
LC must be on and running
Loosen the nut that connects the arm to the bracket
Move the arm up to lower the headlight
Move the arm down to raise the headlight
Tighten the nut

Does anyone know what the correct baseline settings should be?
Move LC X feet away from a wall
The headlight beam should be X inches off the floor


InkedLC200 Ironman Headlight Adjustment 01_LI.jpg
 
1639664729047.png


If you by any chance have a laser level, like for construction, they work great for finding the horizontal and vertical lines. I have a self leveling Dewalt that you can put on a tripod that gives horizontal and vertical lines.
 
Last edited:
That is the correct part for my '16 land cruiser. The dog bone looking silver thing taped to the top in this photo (it isn't oriented like this in operation) is what TJM and others replace.

Here's what I have that I am going to replace mine with:
View attachment 2858959
Updates on this part? Did it work?
 
Looks like it would be possible to drill the mounting bracket to attach the arm about 1" higher up from the it's current position at the top of the adjustable slot. Sounds like 1" won't be enough but I may give it a try. Would be nice to hear an update on when those TJM brackets might possibly be available.

1639680457044.png
 
Looks like it would be possible to drill the mounting bracket to attach the arm about 1" higher up from the it's current position at the top of the adjustable slot. Sounds like 1" won't be enough but I may give it a try. Would be nice to hear an update on when those TJM brackets might possibly be available.
a small amount of adjustment goes a long way.
 
This thread was timely for me. Finally started to look at my issue. I get flashed some, but never enough to chase it down.

For me, the adjustment in the existing bracket did the trick. Probably because I've got some rake. First try, I moved the adjusting bolt to the top of the slot. That was too low. Moved it back down to the middle of the slot and all is well.

I'd give that a go before spending on a new part you might not need. Just that movement within the slot made a pretty significant difference.
 
I wanted a bit more than the stock gap would give me so I rigged some left over garage garbage …
3B6BF1E7-CE17-449F-AFC9-60B8CFD65FAB.jpeg
 
Well, it was made for Weber Carburetors, which are exposed to the same kinds of conditions, so I hope so.

This specific linkage has a range of 3.5 inches (88.9mm) to 4.5 inches (114.3mm). TJM recommends that the spacing on their part initially be set at 90mm from pivot to pivot.
@CharlieS did you get this carb linkage installed? If so, how did it work out? Thanks!
 
@CharlieS did you get this carb linkage installed? If so, how did it work out? Thanks!
FWIW - I got the same part Charlie bought. Prior to installing, figured I would try adjusting the OEM part first. Did that, started truck and saw the headlights adjust lower. Have not been flashed since so maybe it’s good enough. Not the ideal test but they are now lower.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom