Accidental Transmission Flush...

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Glad you caught this Johnny! It's definitely one way to empty the tranny!
I needed to change the fluid anyways... Blessing in disguise really. Getting all the kinks worked out before rubithon this year lol. New engine... New tranny lines... Just need to do an oil change and diff fluid before then!
 
YA just make sure it a drain and not a Flush, HA HA
 
It's not irrelevant. You are using the wrong terminology and i'm trying to give you advice that flushing is bad. The drain & fill you had is not a flush therefore not bad and your trans will be fine. Though I doubt you were worried about it since you were clueless a real flush is bad for your trans.

I'm not sure you know what a flush actually is.

In Johnny's situation that was more similar to a flush than a drain and fill. But the term flushing is misleading, a regular flush is when you disconnect the pump lines and stick the return into a bucket of new fluid and plop the other line from the pump to the cooler into a catch bucket. Then you turn the rig on and stick it in neutral. The transmission will 'flush' itself by pumping all of the old fluid out and new fluid in. Done correctly a flush will not disturb / pick up and distribute ANY crud that isn't already moving around during normal operation. We do this with our power steering on these rigs all the time.

Also not sure if you've ever dropped a pan on the A343 or an A442F, I have.. and I've never once seen a screen that was clogged (or even dirty looking for that matter), fluid that was bad nor debris in the pan. Since this is the case if the fluid color is right I skip the pan drop all together because its a waste of time. These transmissions are fairly stout.

Now knowing that lets return back to your obsession with using the correct terminology.

A drain and fill does not cycle any fluid, it does not drain any fluid from the torque converter and at best provides a 50% fluid change. This is done with the engine off unlike this situation.

A traditional 'flush' is done with the engine running (like Johnny's was) and utilizes the transmissions pump to cycle fluid out of everything (like johny's was) to be replaced by new fluid (which was initially missing in this situation, later the new fluid was added).

I have seen some old machines that are 'power flushers' these use an external pump to do the job rather than the transmissions pump these ARE BAD because they can over pressure seals and blow debris around.

So how about checking the terminology slamming until your understanding has been 100% flushed.

Glad you got it fix Johnny, also helps to have your uncle around!
 
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You people...

:lol:
 
@JohnnyOshow22

Johnny-Post up exactly what line you bought at AutoZone. I'm going to get a few feet for our upcoming trip to the North Rim.

Thanks!
 
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Glad you got it fixed. I like the pic in the parking lot.
 
@JohnnyOshow22

Johnny-Post up exactly what line you bought at AutoZone. I'm going to get a few feet for our upcoming trip to the North Rim.

Thanks!

Duralast / Power Steering Return Hose
Part Number: 81206
SKU: 18456
Unit Price: $2.99

Buy like 8 ish or so feet of the stuff and if you have an issue in the field with that hose and it needs replaced, bypass the hard lines that are below the headlight and go straight from the trans cooler to the radiator/trans hard line that is on the lower driverside of the engine. It will save you or anyone who has to do this in the field a major headache and a lot of time. Just make sure that anyone who does this wraps that hose in something as there are a lot of abrassion points where it passes through. I didnt do the bypass as I didnt know at the time how much of a pain the short hardlines made it but I still wrapped it in wire conduit and electrical tape along the whole thing.
 
Anyone know what the ID of the transmission fluid hoses is?
The hose I purchased has an I.D. of 3/8". Don't know the OEM I.D. but it is close to 3/8"
 
Have experienced this twice. Once was traced to the lines not being supported, tied down and getting into something, belt or fan and being cut. The other was a new radiator, the cooler connection was bent or not orientated correctly, pinching/cutting the line against the shroud. Now, before installing radiators, we fit the shroud and check/adjust fitting to shroud clearance. Once installed, its very hard to see and have caught a couple that likely would have been problems.

The line is 10mm, so 3/8" fits, needs to be TOC, transmission oil cooler hose. It also fits the power steering return, so good to have a couple of feet in the kit.
 
Those oem Toyota lines are hella expensive , it's one of the few hoses on my truck I have not replaced , they seem to "look" fine and I can't justify the cost of new ones
 
Like it matters lol

just spreading awareness that at older age this hose that is likely very overlooked by many members could be a problem.

It does matter..... if you really want kill an older trans, do a full flush! Your drain and fill is recommended maintenance.
 
I'm not sure you know what a flush actually is.

In Johnny's situation that was more similar to a flush than a drain and fill. But the term flushing is misleading, a regular flush is when you disconnect the pump lines and stick the return into a bucket of new fluid and plop the other line from the pump to the cooler into a catch bucket. Then you turn the rig on and stick it in neutral. The transmission will 'flush' itself by pumping all of the old fluid out and new fluid in. Done correctly a flush will not disturb / pick up and distribute ANY crud that isn't already moving around during normal operation. We do this with our power steering on these rigs all the time.

Also not sure if you've ever dropped a pan on the A343 or an A442F, I have.. and I've never once seen a screen that was clogged (or even dirty looking for that matter), fluid that was bad nor debris in the pan. Since this is the case if the fluid color is right I skip the pan drop all together because its a waste of time. These transmissions are fairly stout.

Now knowing that lets return back to your obsession with using the correct terminology.

A drain and fill does not cycle any fluid, it does not drain any fluid from the torque converter and at best provides a 50% fluid change. This is done with the engine off unlike this situation.

A traditional 'flush' is done with the engine running (like Johnny's was) and utilizes the transmissions pump to cycle fluid out of everything (like johny's was) to be replaced by new fluid (which was initially missing in this situation, later the new fluid was added).

I have seen some old machines that are 'power flushers' these use an external pump to do the job rather than the transmissions pump these ARE BAD because they can over pressure seals and blow debris around.

So how about checking the terminology slamming until your understanding has been 100% flushed.

Glad you got it fix Johnny, also helps to have your uncle around!

I'm guilty too! Thanks for correcting SmokingRocks! I was referring to the 2 minute oil change tranny flush..... complete with pump, and some 4th grade drop out trying to tell you it needs to be flushed! Good luck OP..... enough of this flush talk!
 
Those oem Toyota lines are hella expensive , it's one of the few hoses on my truck I have not replaced , they seem to "look" fine and I can't justify the cost of new ones

Same here.

Mine are 23 years old and look great. Other than being grimey the rubber is all in good shape, not torn, not swollen.. spiral wrap all in good shape.. I'll be leaving them alone, personally.

Edit: I did just remember the hose across to the passenger side of the radiator had some abrasion on it from the crank pulley when I first got the truck.. so that one has been replaced. The rest are fine.
 
If you leave them alone make sure you carry spare hose. You don't want to be stranded with a brittle broken line in BFE.
 

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