Builds A pig for Father's Day (1 Viewer)

[RUSH55]

Cruiser Outfitters has new cylinders.

Wheel Cylinder - Rear Bottom - 9/1971 - 7/1980 4x Series LH (BWCR69055LB)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

 

[mn12]

As noted, Cruiser Outfitter and NAPA have new as well.
This was a nightmare for me.
Doing it over again I would mark them real good and go all new.

 

[bobm]

Well there you go. Thanks! Forgive my ignorance on brake line connections but which one would you use? 1/4"? The OD of the flare measures just under 0.275" on the brake connection that will be going there. I assume the flares and connectors are all the same in the brake system but I just happened to have the jumper from the front to the rear cylinders handy.

Edit: Guess you would use 3/16" based on your second post?

View attachment 3975208

Would ya at dat dial calipers American made in Athol Masshole and not Metric or digital for da Caliper impaired . It's a Festivus Miracle

 

[J Mack]

Edit: Guess you would use 3/16" based on your second post?

Sorry I was replying from my phone out in the shop so always a crap shoot.
Yes you'll be the metric equivalent 4.75mm or what ever it is but yeah 3/16" will work just fine.
Anything is repairable given enough time and money but as @RUSH55 pointed out these are better replaced with new units from Kurt..

 

[J Mack]

Would ya at dat dial calipers American made in Athol Masshole and not Metric or digital for da Caliper impaired . It's a Festivus Miracle

 

[RUSH55]

It's a Festivus Miracle

Happy Festivus Bobby

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Cruiser Outfitters has new cylinders.

Wheel Cylinder - Rear Bottom - 9/1971 - 7/1980 4x Series LH (BWCR69055LB)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

Thanks Dustin. I have them in my cart. Maybe Kurt @cruiseroutfit can expound upon the source of these. An online search says the FIC brand is sometimes made in Japan. Probably going to order them regardless.

The rebuild "cup kits" from Toyota are still available: 04476-60031. The bad news is MSRP is just over $100 per and you need 4. Looks like you can get them for about $70 each, but still.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

FWIW, I did a cut and paste to compile the Standard Bolt Torques from the FSM onto one page. There really aren't that many torques specified and most bolts are probably fine with "good n tight" but sometimes, like when you're bolting on the driver's side front shock tower to the frame, you probably want to at least be in the ball park for those bolts.

I have also tested the bolt part numbering guideline at the top of the page against recent purchases and found it to be worthless. YMMV.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks Dustin. I have them in my cart. Maybe Kurt @cruiseroutfit can expound upon the source of these. An online search says the FIC brand is sometimes made in Japan. Probably going to order them regardless.

The rebuild "cup kits" from Toyota are still available: 04476-60031. The bad news is MSRP is just over $100 per and you need 4. Looks like you can get them for about $70 each, but still.

View attachment 3975559

All of ours are made in Japan. I've never seen a FIC that was not made in Japan. We stock Japanese wheel cylinder rebuild kits for the 55/56 too!

Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Fits 7/1970 - 9/1973 5x Applications - Rear Cylinders (BWCRK60030)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Greg, the wheel cylinders are very easy to rebuild. I've done complete jobs on several rigs. Piece of cake and the parts are about a third the cost.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

All of ours are made in Japan. I've never seen a FIC that was not made in Japan. We stock Japanese wheel cylinder rebuild kits for the 55/56 too!

Wheel Cylinder Rebuild Kit - Fits 7/1970 - 9/1973 5x Applications - Rear Cylinders (BWCRK60030)

Toyota Land Cruiser Wheel Cylinder

cruiserteq.com

Thanks Kurt. Will order those today.

Greg, the wheel cylinders are very easy to rebuild. I've done complete jobs on several rigs. Piece of cake and the parts are about a third the cost.

Yes they appear to be but I messed the core of one up and for $42 each I think I will just go new this time. Sometimes it's just nice to have one less thing to mess with.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

While we're on the subject of brakes, I finished the rotors and drums with the KBS high temp paint a few days ago. Still need to get it over to the powder coater to bake. Also finished the front hubs with 2 coats of the Mastercoat Chassis Saver silver and 2 coats of the AG111 satin black. Installed the front diff and Marlin EcoSeals. Now I can start reassembling the front axle.

I ordered the FIC rear brake cylinders but plan on just cleaning and painting the front calipers and reassembling with new pins, clips, etc. I wasn't having any braking issues before I tore everything apart so unless something looks bad, worn, etc., or I screw something up, my plan is to give everything a cosmetic treatment and reassemble. Will probably use the silver Chassis Saver on the calipers. It's good to 350F+ and I think you would have to try really hard to get our calipers up to that temperature. As far as I can tell they were silver from the factory although black would probably look better IMHO.

Started experimenting with the brake lines. They all look to be in good shape so I'm probably going to clean them up and reuse them. The fittings do have some surface rust though that I need to address. Dipped one fitting in Evaporust for a day or so and it came out pretty nice. Not exactly sure what to do with them after derusting. They seem to still have some zinc plating on them so maybe just hit them with some T9 Boeshield and call it a day. Or I could paint the fittings with the chassis saver silver. I have even considered cutting off the flares and reflaring with new fittings but not sure that's worth the trouble if I'm not going to run new lines. Can't say enough good about Evaporust btw. I have been using it a lot with great success. Nice that it removes the rust but not the original plating.

Master cylinder looks decent. Guessing it was replaced or at least painted. Booster looks original but might have been rebuilt. Need to derust and paint it though. Also the accordion rubber seal on the firewall side has seen better days. Unfortunately it's not listed as a separate part. It's shown only as part of the whole assembly or as part of the rebuild kit, both of which are NLA. It's an out of sight, out of mind part but I'm sure McMaster Carr or someone has something that will come close.

 

[J Mack]

I have even considered cutting off the flares and reflaring with new fittings

I wouldn't on an easy straight line that didn't already leak, your lines aren't straight or easy so my only option here would be replacement.

FYI: the flare tool I use takes a little over an inch of straight line in the block.. AFTER the fitting on the line.
Eastwood Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool - https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Some of the bar type take less but still take more straight line than you have..

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I wouldn't on an easy straight line the didn't already leak, your lines aren't straight or easy so my only option here would be replacement.

FYI: the flare tool I use takes a little over an inch of straight line in the block.. AFTER the fitting on the line.
Eastwood Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool - https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Some of the bar type take less but still take more straight line than you have..

That's great information; thanks. I guess if it was as easy as I implied to just replace the fittings then everyone, or at least someone, would have gone that route; and I don't recall one instance on the brake lines.

 

[J Mack]

I guess if it was as easy as I implied to just replace the fittings then everyone, or at least someone, would have gone that route;

Something else to consider..

As you know brake fluid is hygroscopic and I’ve seen enough brake lines rust out from the inside that I don’t re-use them, if I remove them for any reason I always make new ones to replace to old lines.

This is a really easy and satisfying job, I’m happy to post more information for you if you’re interested.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Something else to consider..

As you know brake fluid is hygroscopic and I’ve seen enough brake lines rust out from the inside that I don’t re-use them, if I remove them for any reason I always make new ones to replace to old lines.

This is a really easy and satisfying job, I’m happy to post more information for you if you’re interested.

Yes I am aware of that issue with brake fluid. And I've gone back and forth on this subject a few times. Last month I would have emphatically said I was replacing them all. I have read a lot of your posts already on brake lines and have even come close to buying some of the suggested flaring tools and benders. I have purchased all new flexible hoses and I guess there really aren't that many hard lines, but some of them look a bit daunting to bend; or at least they intimidate me.

You've probably just pushed me back across to the "replace" side of the line - well done sir.

 

[J Mack]

You've probably just pushed me back across to the "replace" side of the line - well done sir.

Brake lines are easy and I really enjoy this type of work. I'm out in the shop posting with the cell phone but I'll try to get started and fix it later when I get in the office..

I posted a link to the Eastwood flare tool and mine works well for both 45° and 37° flaring I do here.
I also have the two bar type that will work but it makes the job harder than it needs to be, FYI I have the Rigid brand and you can see how much thicker it is than the Chinese version.

I really enjoy making stainless steel lines but the material is less forgiving and more expensive so unless I'm doing something for myself I usually use the copper nickel, when you buy the copper nickel it'll come in a coil and you will need a way to straighten it..
I made my own straightener but you can buy them cheap enough.

Then you'll start out making yourself some little cheat bends that has some starting marks and you will use these to plan and measure everything out without having to do a bunch of complicated math.

You'll see on some of mine they have the sleeves,those are for the AN 37° nuts and I've machined some of my benders to make the bends as close as I can to the end of the line with those sleeves in place because you cannot put the flare on once it's bent.

I need to get back to work but this guy has some great tips here too.

 

[bobm]

Nice job on straightener . You machine the wheels?? Noticed plastic on other side too.

 

[J Mack]

Nice job on straightener . You machine the wheels?? Noticed plastic on other side too.

The orange wheels work well for 3/8” line and they are,

CNBTR 4Pieces 6x30x13mm Plastic Coated Sealed Bearings Steel 606ZZ Deep U Groove Guide Pulley Rail Ball Rolling Bearing Wheel Orange

The gold wheels work well for 3/16” and 1/4” line and they are,

Prime-Line 1-1/4 in. Dia. x 5/16 in. L Steel Roller Assembly 2 pk

Amazon has both..

 

[bobm]

So ya plastic would be fur polished stainless?? Not Polish, Polished get what me trowin down