Builds A pig for Father's Day (6 Viewers)

[WarDamnEagle]

My wife would scalp me if I used her Le Creuset cookware! You da man!

She actually didn't mind although I did take a bit of precaution by lining it with aluminum foil. I didn't have a small cast iron skillet with a lid and I needed something with a lot of heat retention given the distance to the shop. We use the Le Creuset but they aren't our everyday go to. But I will admit it was an "ask for forgiveness" and not an "ask for permission" play.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Put the axles in this afternoon and thought I had a major issue. The spacer wouldn't go in once I had the axles in. Remember that I have now swapped the diffs so this spacer went with these axles but not with this diff. It was very, very close but just didn't quite want to go. It measures (with my Starrett micrometers @bobm ) 1.157" or 29.388mm wide.

In consulting the FSM, I assume it's the 29.4mm spacer and the next one down is 29.0mm. Of course the 29.0mm is NLA (as is the 29.4mm). They're probably all NLA but I didn't check any others. So I'm thinking about a machine shop but decided to double down on my efforts and I did finally get it to go in by hand. Basically just lots of pulling and wiggling on the axle shafts. Thought about a BFH at one point but thankfully thought better of the idea. It's absolutely tight but the spacer will easily move a bit back and forth along the shaft pin so I think it will be Okay. Everything feels very smooth in all directions so I think I'm ready to button this one up.

In the FWIW category, I cleaned up my old axle shaft lock and compared it the new one. Although it was stained, there really wasn't any visible wear. I know Redline Cruisers went into the axles before they sold this "barn find" so they may have changed them. Still a great idea to install new ones if you are in there.

Old shaft lock on left:

 

[RUSH55]

I recall going through all the same hassle when putting the FJ60 axle back together. Made me appreciate full-floaters even more.

 

[bobm]

Might wanna delete dat pic

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Might wanna delete dat pic

Which pic Bob?

 

[bobm]

Baking parts in oven

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Had a little bit of time this morning and drilled out those two rivets from the backside of the tire carrier. I'm sure you are all dying to see what the internals look like.

Throwing the three circled pieces in the "to be powder coated" pile. Other parts seem to still have most of their plating with little to no rust so I will just clean them up before reassembly. In inspecting the chain closely, it appears there is still some yellow zinc plating (or more likely, cadmium). Going to throw it in some Evapo-Rust and see what happens. Will likely add it to the "yellow zinc plating" pile.

Edit: Somehow the photo didn't load or got deleted?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Does anyone have any opinion on painting the front (or rear) hubs? The only part that will be visible if running hubcaps will be part of the marked area on the front hub. Would be nice to paint the face, etc. but a friend that owns a shop advised me many years ago to never paint what I will label, critical bearing surfaces. He was specifically talking at the time about the hub face where the rim mounts but I'm not sure if that was good advice or just urban myth. I mean the rims are typically painted unless they are aluminum.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Does anyone have any opinion on painting the front (or rear) hubs? The only part that will be visible if running hubcaps will be part of the marked area on the front hub. Would be nice to paint the face, etc. but a friend that owns a shop advised me many years ago to never paint what I will label, critical bearing surfaces. He was specifically talking at the time about the hub face where the rim mounts but I'm not sure if that was good advice or just urban myth. I mean the rims are typically painted unless they are aluminum.


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I prepped and painted all of that, can’t see any reason to leave it rusty…

 

[RUSH55]

I painted mine too, but expect they’ll get scratched up over time taking wheels on and off. Could be your friend was referring to this area where the wheel butts against the hub. That area is left bare steel on most vehicles. Easy enough to correct if it presents an issue.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

I always paint mine as well.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Well, glad I asked. Would certainly prefer to paint the hubs. Probably going to use some high temp paint on the rotor centers on each side as well. Thought about replacing the rotors but they are smooth and barely worn, if at all.

@RUSH55 it was definitely the outward face of the hub where the rims go. In fact, it was on my '85 4Runner and is still that way today. I don't recall having a conversation about the inward side where the caliper bolts but that would obviously be the same scenario.

 

[J Mack]

Probably going to use some high temp paint on the rotor centers on each side as well.

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Thin film coating, more durable than paint and thinner than powder coat or paint for those areas you don't want the mill build. I paint everything with it. Graphite Black is my black of choice here..

​

 

[bobm]

Cerakote ??

 

[J Mack]

Cerakote ??

For the win!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Every so often I get pleasantly surprised that a fairly esoteric part is still available from Toyota. I took my clutch and brake assembly apart today and found the bushings circled below in bad shape. I also broke the cushion circled below removing it from the assembly. Diagram shows the clutch but the brake pedal uses the same 3 parts.

 

[RUSH55]

Must use those bushings in some other applications.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Decided to replace the bolts on the face of the lockers (6 each side) and added those to the order for the bushings and cushions (see above). I know I am repeating myself on this subject but I checked Partsouq and every one of those parts is less than half the US discounted price. Shipping is $3 more but the Partsouq order will get here faster. Total from my go-to US discount dealer with USPS ground: $51.95. Total from Partsouq with Fedex air: $33.49. There are occasions when the prices are much closer or even cheaper in the US but that is rare in my experience. Of course for bulky and/or heavy parts, the shipping will kill you from Dubai or Japan.

Edit: I forgot tax. Total is $55.09 from the US source.

 

[PabloCruise]

Still looks pretty important to me.

View attachment 3943298

Side bar, he tore that side apart again, and when he put it back together, it fit!
Go figure...

 

[PabloCruise]

Finished painting the axles and diffs yesterday. Very pleased with the Mastercoat products. I have used POR15 very successfully in the past but I was sold on other's reviews of the Mastercoat products and I also wanted to use a product with its own topcoat paint. Like all of these products, prep is key.

So ideally I would have powder coated these parts but I didn't want to tear the diffs completely apart to get to a bare housing that could go in the oven. And once I pulled the axles, etc. I saw that the rear axle bearings looked new. In reviewing Redline Cruisers advertisement for this 55 from only a few thousand miles ago, they went through both axles, front and rear. So, rightly or wrongly, I made the uncharacteristic (of me) decision to leave the diffs on the axles, button up the ends with gorilla tape, and to get everything sandblasted. I did pull the washers off so that the sandblasting would get as much surface as possible but otherwise that was the only other prep that I did. I also asked my sandblasting guy (also my powder coat guy) to either tape up the rotating part of the diff output or to at least stay away from that end. Well something got lost in that translation so everything was sandblasted. It doesn't appear to have hurt anything so se la vie.

After blasting I applied the metal prep with a paint brush and let it dry for a couple of hours. Where there is any remaining rust, you get some reaction and bubbling. I came back a couple of hours later and wiped those areas down with a rag soaked in metal prep which helped smooth those areas out. Lastly I used a scotch brite pad and occasionally even a wire wheel cup to smooth up some areas prior to applying the Permanent Rust Sealer. I then let the parts dry overnight before proceeding with paint.

The rest was pretty cut and dry. Two coats of the silver Permanent Rust Sealer applied approximately 3 hours apart, followed by 2 coats of the AG111 (in satin black) the next day. The AG111 is a two part system and I let it dry a little longer between coats, maybe 4 hours or so. Use a nylon/polyester brush for the Permanent Rust Sealer and a china bristle brush for the AG111. The Permanent Rust sealer is very thin; like viscosity of water. The AG111 is much thicker, like latex paint.

1/3 cup of the Permanent Rust Sealer was almost enough to do one coat on all of these parts. 3/4 cup (1/2 cup of part A and 1/4 cup of part B) was more than enough to do a coat of the AG111. I could have easily done one coat of the AG111 with 1/2 cup total but I just used the measuring cups that I had on hand.

After sandblasting:

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After metal prep but before I had used the scotch brite pad

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After Permanent Rust Sealer

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And after 2 coats of AG111

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Are you swapping thirds front to rear? I know folks will do that since the front likely has many fewer miles on it (under power) than the rear.