Builds A pig for Father's Day (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
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You're in deep. If it were my truck I would just put a new Dobinsons IMS lift on and be done with it. 10 year old springs wouldn't be worth the effort for me.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #1,143
Thought about it several times. Of course then I would have to move the rear spring hangers again. Not sure any of these factory finishes are going to hold up over time so part of my thought process is to refinish them better than factory. I haven't held a Dobinson spring in my hand so I can't judge their quality in that regard. I would definitely go with Dobinson vs OME if I was starting with factory springs.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #1,144
Any of you guys ever take the spare tire mechanism apart? I have removed the chain and I also pulled the center shaft but if you really want to get the body apart you need to drill out two rivets. Not sure how hard those are to install or even what type of rivets they are. Trying to get all the semi-gloss black parts that I want powder coated pulled together. Might have to resort to just using the Mastercoat paint as best as I can.
FWIW, you can still buy this part new for ~$130 but it looks a bit different today. Pretty sure the chain was originally plated but they are painted black on the new ones. Body looks thinner as well. Maybe @cruiserdan could confirm the original chain and tire holder finish on his pristine museum example.
FWIW, you can still buy this part new for ~$130 but it looks a bit different today. Pretty sure the chain was originally plated but they are painted black on the new ones. Body looks thinner as well. Maybe @cruiserdan could confirm the original chain and tire holder finish on his pristine museum example.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
And the Tool
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
I'm happy to loan the tool to you if you don't want to buy..
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #1,146
I'm thinking it's cheaper to just buy you the tool and ship it out after it's refinished.
Seriously though, I don't think those tools will work. One side is blocked by the body and the other side is questionable. I'm thinking that they may have set this upside down on a piece of bar stock with the rivet in a head indention and then bucked it from the bottom with an air hammer? Whatever they used left a waffle pattern on the rivet and partially on the body.
The rivet is pretty small. I can't get exact measurements but the head is about 2 mm high and 7 or 8 mm in diameter. Shaft is maybe 5 or 6 mm diameter and 7 mm long.
Looks like I will have to drill these out from the bottom. Just make a shallow pilot hole and then use something about the same OD until it pops loose? I assume I don't need to go very deep at all? Not impossible but wouldn't be easy to cut the head off - at least it wouldn't be easy for me.
First photo is straight down. Second one is just enough angle to see the rivet.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
You can use a press to upset the rivets 
Unfortunately I am not in a position to do that just now. I'm officially retired and I am at my cabin packing up to head to Solid Axle Summit. The next time I expect to be at rhe museum is September 6th for CruiserFest.
Whatever they used as an anvil had those teeth to help keep it from dancing around while they peen the head..
Drill it out and do what you want..
If you get in a bind send it to me and I will put it back together for you..
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #1,150
Congratulations Dan. I retired 3 years ago - love it! Enjoy the trip!
The long skinny ones are for the domed rivets, when you get closer I'll post some measurements and we'll figure it out..
WarDamnEagle
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- #1,152
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
It's called a Wafflehead
. Rivets when upset should be 1 and 1/2 the diameter of the rivet 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
And that’s just what’s in the fourth drawer down in the kitchen island.Well with that arsenal maybe I shouldn't hesitate to drill them out.
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Engine hooks OTW. Sorry for the delay/confusion.
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #1,156
Not a problem at all Mark. Probably a good time to share what arrived yesterday from your shop. Thanks so much again for your help and expertise in getting an OEM carb for my 55. Going to be a shame to cover it up with an air cleaner!
WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #1,157
Tackled the differential seals yesterday afternoon and this morning. New seals, slingers, deflectors, pinion nuts, and washers. Along the way I discovered that the current Toyota pinion nuts are 27mm vs the old nuts of 30mm. I had one of each on my diffs, 27 in the rear and 30 in the front. Guessing that probably means the front had never been gone into - but that's just a guess. I also noticed that the new slingers (goes between seal and bearing) are quite different. The new ones are flat and the old ones have dished edges. The bearing surfaces seemed to be about the same thickness although I didn't put any mics on them to check.
First I had to buy or build an SST to hold the flange. Went the build route with a 3' stick of 1 1/4" x 3/16" flat bar. Drilled two 10mm holes lined up with the holes in one side of the flange, ground out a bit of curvature in between, and walla; worked just fine. After unstaking the first nut, I geared up for a fight to get the nut off. Well that turned out to be totally anti-climatic as it took very minimal effort. Not hand loose but still nothing like what I expected.
I had put match marks on the nut and pinon before I loosened the nut. My idea was to see how much torque it took to get the original nut back to that point and to use that as a starting point for retorquing the new nut. Well at 50 ft-lbs I was already well past the match mark so I gave up on that grand plan. That outcome did make me feel better about messing with the seals, torque, etc. though.
A claw seal puller worked just fine to get the old seal out and I used a couple of magnetic pickup tools to remove the slinger. The old deflector was a bit of a pain to get off the pinon flange assembly but it eventually came out in the press. At that point I put the new parts in. The new deflector went on using a largish PVC coupling and mallet as did the seal. The '77 manual I'm using is a bit short on details and it just says to put all the parts back in. I looked in my '97 manual and it specified MP grease on the seal lip so I did that (that's actually why I cross checked the manuals). The '97 manual also specified that the seal be ~1mm "deep". Well I just tapped it in until I could just see daylight under a straight edge all the way around the circumference.
The FSM ('77 version to be clear) specifies 144-173 ft-lb on the pinion nut. I started at 145 and tried to measure the pre-load. Well I don't have an in-lb gauge so I used my 0-12 ft-lb dial torque wrench and came up with somewhere between 0.5 and 1 ft-lb. And yes I know that's incredibly inaccurate. I then went up 10 ft-lbs or so at a time and rechecked "preload" each time with the wrench and by feel. Frankly nothing changed and I stopped at 170 ft-lbs. That was my experience on both diffs. All I can say is that there is some pre-load and that it feels more than before I put the new parts in (very subjective I know). At this point I don't think it's worth buying and waiting on an in-lb split beam torque wrench because I don't want to tear all the way into these diffs and start changing spacers. I didn't have any differential problems with the original set-up, as far as I know anyway, so I am going to assume all is good at this point.
Next step will be to reassemble the axles with the diffs installed. I will wait until I have all that done before I stake the pinion nuts though.
Just a little more information on the pre-load per the FSM. The FSM reassembly procedure starts with the pinon assembly and specifies 16.5 to 22.5 in-lb for a new bearing and only 7.8 to 11.3 in-lb for an old bearing. Once you get the rest of the differential together it wants you to recheck the pre-load and specifies an additional 3.5 to 5.2 in-lb (for new or old bearings). So, if you are reusing the bearings, in other words, only changing the seal, then the pre-load is the sum of the two or 11.3 to 16.5 in-lb. That's only 0.94 to 1.38 ft-lb. Just FYI.
First I had to buy or build an SST to hold the flange. Went the build route with a 3' stick of 1 1/4" x 3/16" flat bar. Drilled two 10mm holes lined up with the holes in one side of the flange, ground out a bit of curvature in between, and walla; worked just fine. After unstaking the first nut, I geared up for a fight to get the nut off. Well that turned out to be totally anti-climatic as it took very minimal effort. Not hand loose but still nothing like what I expected.
I had put match marks on the nut and pinon before I loosened the nut. My idea was to see how much torque it took to get the original nut back to that point and to use that as a starting point for retorquing the new nut. Well at 50 ft-lbs I was already well past the match mark so I gave up on that grand plan. That outcome did make me feel better about messing with the seals, torque, etc. though.
A claw seal puller worked just fine to get the old seal out and I used a couple of magnetic pickup tools to remove the slinger. The old deflector was a bit of a pain to get off the pinon flange assembly but it eventually came out in the press. At that point I put the new parts in. The new deflector went on using a largish PVC coupling and mallet as did the seal. The '77 manual I'm using is a bit short on details and it just says to put all the parts back in. I looked in my '97 manual and it specified MP grease on the seal lip so I did that (that's actually why I cross checked the manuals). The '97 manual also specified that the seal be ~1mm "deep". Well I just tapped it in until I could just see daylight under a straight edge all the way around the circumference.
The FSM ('77 version to be clear) specifies 144-173 ft-lb on the pinion nut. I started at 145 and tried to measure the pre-load. Well I don't have an in-lb gauge so I used my 0-12 ft-lb dial torque wrench and came up with somewhere between 0.5 and 1 ft-lb. And yes I know that's incredibly inaccurate. I then went up 10 ft-lbs or so at a time and rechecked "preload" each time with the wrench and by feel. Frankly nothing changed and I stopped at 170 ft-lbs. That was my experience on both diffs. All I can say is that there is some pre-load and that it feels more than before I put the new parts in (very subjective I know). At this point I don't think it's worth buying and waiting on an in-lb split beam torque wrench because I don't want to tear all the way into these diffs and start changing spacers. I didn't have any differential problems with the original set-up, as far as I know anyway, so I am going to assume all is good at this point.
Next step will be to reassemble the axles with the diffs installed. I will wait until I have all that done before I stake the pinion nuts though.
Just a little more information on the pre-load per the FSM. The FSM reassembly procedure starts with the pinon assembly and specifies 16.5 to 22.5 in-lb for a new bearing and only 7.8 to 11.3 in-lb for an old bearing. Once you get the rest of the differential together it wants you to recheck the pre-load and specifies an additional 3.5 to 5.2 in-lb (for new or old bearings). So, if you are reusing the bearings, in other words, only changing the seal, then the pre-load is the sum of the two or 11.3 to 16.5 in-lb. That's only 0.94 to 1.38 ft-lb. Just FYI.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,158
Put the rear diff on yesterday. For better or worse I torqued the nuts to 34 ft-lbs. I couldn't find a value anywhere in the '77 FSM but the Mud brain trust referenced that number in many places. Installed the new oil seals and then tried to install the new axle collars. Well they wouldn't go on for love or money. Finally decided they were an interference fit so while the wife was out at the hair salon this morning I decided it was a great time to grab a Le Creuset and bake some parts. Took the collars up to 400F but only one would go on. 450F did the trick though for the second one.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Well!! Tell us about the Marinade 
My wife would scalp me if I used her Le Creuset cookware! You da man!
