Builds A pig for Father's Day (1 Viewer)

[J Mack]

I would slip the axles and center section back in the housing and wire brush and paint...
Or I would beat the bearings out with a long chunk of pipe and have the housing powder coated and rebuilt with all new parts..

 

[J Mack]

A couple of years of driving gravel fire roads and everything I spent time painting is blasted.
If you plan to drive it much all this stuff takes a beating.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I would slip the axles and center section back in the housing and wire brush and paint...
Or I would beat the bearings out with a long chunk of pipe and have the housing powder coated and rebuilt with all new parts..

Pretty much decided to keep the bearings installed and will use the collars and gorilla tape to plug the ends. I bought new collars so these are expendable. Going to go with the Mastercoat paint on the axles, springs, and diffs.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

A couple of years of driving gravel fire roads and everything I spent time painting is blasted.
If you plan to drive it much all this stuff takes a beating.

No gravel between here and Publix!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

We are leaving for 3 weeks Monday morning and I'm starting to have separation anxiety. Decided I had to put something on the frame so that I could at least say that "reassembly" has commenced! Feels great to put nice shiny parts together with nice shiny hardware. Long way to go though.....

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Thought I could post how @kelly saad just repaired one of my door hinge mounts given the conversation in the short rib thread. This is on the door side of the hinge but I would think the repair would be similar on the body side.

Edit: Guess I should flag @kbahus

 

[kbahus]

Excellent, thank you for making that post.

 

[65swb45]

Sneak peek of your 61023 carb Greg.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Carbolicious!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Sneak peek of your 61023 carb Greg.View attachment 3927238View attachment 3927239

Nice Mark!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I know you guys have missed my dumba$$ questions over the last few weeks so I will try to make up for lost time. Current plan on the axles is to have them sandblasted with the diffs intact. Ends will be sealed up, etc. to keep the sand out of the internals. I will then likely remove the diffs and paint everything before reassembly.

The rear axle is more or less ready to go and I'm about to start on the front. The last time I tore one of these front ends apart it was on an '85 4Runner and more than 20 years ago. I reviewed the FSM and it says to disassemble the entire locking hubs first starting with the bolts circled in blue. I don't recall doing that previously but, again, that was a long time ago.

So is it an option to start with the bolts circled in red and just pull the entire locking hub assembly intact? I might still disassemble the ASCO hubs but it would be nice to have the option.

 

[65swb45]

If the axle has never been serviced, or if it has been serviced according to the manual, there will be a puck screwed into the end of the birfield (or a snapring) that you can only access by removing the head of the hub.

 

[MudDauber]

When I did a 76 a few years ago this video was helpful

 

[WarDamnEagle]

If the axle has never been serviced, or if it has been serviced according to the manual, there will be a puck screwed into the end of the birfield that you can only access by removing the head of the hub.

Thanks Mark. I was probably going to eventually tear the hub apart anyway so it’s probably no more work in the end.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

When I did a 76 a few years ago this video was helpful

Hard to listen to that guy mispronouncing Birfield over and over.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Started tearing down the front axle today and got down to the locking nut. I then discovered that my 54mm socket doesn't fit. It appears that the proper size is 55mm as far as I can tell after an internet search for the specified SST: 09607-60020

I bought the 54mm one many years ago from Marlin Crawler (IIRC) for my '85 4Runner. Oddly enough, there seems to be a lot of 54mm sockets for sale on the internet when you google that SST number, so caveat emptor if you are ever in the market.

Edit: Never mind. I was just being stupid. I forgot about the locking retainer. Once I got a couple of tabs out of the way the socket fit just fine. I couldn't see them for all the grease but then remembered and found them.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I just got all the door hinges back from Kelly. They have been nicely bead blasted and are ready for paint after I install the new bushings. Before I do these though I have a question.

On my test hinge, I didn't lubricate the bushing/pin at all and it appears to operate smoothly but with a lot of resistance. That's pretty subjective though since it doesn't have a door hanging off of it. So Jim, @J Mack, did you lubricate yours before, during, or after installation? I really don't want to put any grease on them prior to paint but it also seems pretty impossible to lubricate the bushing/pin after assembly.

 

[J Mack]

So Jim, @J Mack, did you lubricate yours before, during, or after installation?

Use a #1center drill McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/2915A11/


And drill a hole in this location.

Then use an adaptor for your grease gun that's normally used for flush cups. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/2906K95/


And grease them whenever they need it!

 

[bobm]

I prefer all 3 Lubrication methods . Before, during and after

 

[bobm]