Good thought. If the rod isn't long enough it would take a couple pumps to build pressure, right.
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I have faith that you are carrying it out correctlyOK Guys, Let me start by saying thanks again for all the time everyone is putting in to help me on this. I'd be lost without it. I've been looking to the general internet a bit too and am not finding much outside this forum! Rush, as far as if I'm doing the procedures right or not...well I hoenstly can't say for sure.
Again, I'm a new guy to this so I could be not doing the bleed long enough and there could be air in the lines, although I'm being pretty careful about it. I have no frame of reference about how long this should be taking, but from what I've read, it could be 10 - 15 min per wheel. I'm getting no bubbles faster than that...more like 3-5 min, but I'm not totally dry anymore obviously. I'm doing the bottle with fluid in the bottom trick so you can bleed them alone. This prevents air from sucking backing into the lines when you pump and thus don't have to costantly open and close the nipple. I can sit on my knees and push the pedal and look under the truck and see the bottle at all four corners. I can clearly see No bubbles coming out. I'll then do another 10 pumps before closing the nipple at each corner. I have a bottle that refills the reseviours as I go, but I'm doing max 4 pumps then checking the reseviour level every time. I know for a fact I've never let the reseviours get low enought to suck air in. I've been super careful about that.
Lastly, as for the cylinder adjustment, becasue the pedeal would get harder as I drove it, I've been backing off the cylinders quite a bit from where they were intially adjusted. Is it enough that when I first get in I'm pumping the pedal twice just to get them, close to the drum so I can feel resitance at the pedal? Maybe. Totally possibble. I'm going to do all 4 corners cold adjustment this afternoon. So to be clear, dial them till they won't spin by hand, back off 5 clicks, then maybe 1 or 2 more (per the manual). It's OK to have a slight drag of the shoes, as in enough to hear it but not enough to feel any resistance? That's what I've gathered from everything in the manuals and online.
Are you sure your new master is for drum/drum brakes?
Sounds like you are pushing fluid backwards when it sits, I don't believe it's air in your system.
Here's what I have in there although i'm pretty sure mine is an Aisin. It matched what came out, which I'm pretty sure was original. Looking at this on multiple sights, it says drum/drumAre you sure your new master is for drum/drum brakes?
Sounds like you are pushing fluid backwards when it sits.
You have more faith than I! hah!I have faith that you are carrying it out correctly
Your method for bleeding at the cylinders and calipers sounds good as long as the hose attached to the nipple is tight.
Your method for adjusting the cylinders sounds correct too, as long as you’re sure to adjust all four the same.
As for the question about springs, all they do is pull the shoes in tight to the cylinders and hold the shoes in place. Likely, you wouldn’t notice a spring problem unless there was some kind of continuous drag.
Anxious to hear the results of todays foray.
The way I read that is you’re not 100% sure what you have so let’s assume your issue is with the master until we can rule it out.Here's what I have in there although i'm pretty sure mine is an Aisin.
I do have that exact unit in the pictures, its for all drums. I'm very confident it being the wrong model is NOT my issue. I just wasn't sure the manufacturer of the new one. Aisin or Advios. Just confirmed Aisin. As for leaks, I have combed the lines and every connection multiple times. No leaks that I can find. Cleaned everything up and wiped it all down so I can see if anything gets wet. Not seeing anything on that front but I could be missing something for sure.The way I read that is you’re not 100% sure what you have so let’s assume your issue is with the master until we can rule it out.
Based on the picture you posted I’ll assume you have clear reservoirs and can see the fluid level, pump your brakes until everything feels normal maybe even go for a short drive, then use a sharp pencil to mark the fluid level exactly on both reservoirs and leave it alone for several hours or overnight. When you recheck your level if it is above your lines then you are pushing fluid back into your master and no amount of bleeding will solve that and you will need to address that issue with some different parts.
If the level says the same but you need to re-pump up the brakes to get a firm pedal did the level drop after you pump the brakes back up? If it is dropping then we need to look for your leak.
So you are 100% sure that you purchased a drum/drum master and you didn’t receive a disc/drum master?I do have that exact unit in the pictures, its for all drums. I'm very confident it being the wrong model is NOT my issue.
Here's the one for front discs...don't have it73, not 76. All drums. Here's the old, exactly the same (but with the reservoirs reversed), and here's the box for the new one. I really don't think the wrong part is the issue
View attachment 2650071
View attachment 2650072
It looks physically different to me but looks alone won’t determine what’s going on inside, good luck I hope you get it figured out soon at start enjoying your pig.I'm very confident it being the wrong model is NOT my issue.