Builds A New 55 Owner Intro (cgn1976 thread) (2 Viewers)

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J Mack said:
Did you ask and pay them to inspect and repair any leaks on the transfer case when they did the clutch?
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I had them do the rear main and the trans input seal only. I didn't have them look at the transfer specifically. Probably should have. It was pretty gooped up with 30 years of oil crud on there and it wasn't dripping anything so It wasn't really on my radar. I've been under there a few times since I've gotten it scraping off the layers trying to see if see any major leak issues, but didn't really see much. Again not dripping on the driveway. Only ever got a few drips from under the flywheel/clutch cover after a drive and I'm sure that was addressed with the rear manin and trasn input seals, which again I did have them do. I guess I'm trying to see what's normal seepage and what's a real issue. I just don't know
 
No seepage is normal and some of your photos look more like leaks than seepage.

Personally I would pull the transfer case and reseal everything at once.
 
J Mack said:
No seepage is normal and some of your photos look more like leaks than seepage.

Personally I would pull the transfer case and reseal everything at once.
Click to expand...
I just crawled under there to see what's what now that it's been a few days since I got it back and I think they must have taken those pics when they first cleaned it off and then tightened some stuff up. It's totally dry at all 3 drain/fill plugs as well as the 2 spots on the T case from the pics. The only issue I see is the oil pan has a few slightly wet areas and the oil is slowly working it's way back down the side and ending up in the flywheel cover, but it's very marginal. I grabbed a screw driver and found that at least 5 of the philips head bolts on the oil pan were barely finger tight and they were the ones where it's wet. I read it's only a 7lb torque spec so I tightened the with a screw driver only and not overly tight. Thinking an oil pan gasket may be in short order.

The one leak I can't see much on is the e brake. Doesn't look wet or leaky though and the brake works great.

Lastly I managed to wiggle the transfer shifter around and get the boot loose and pulled back up and through, so that's one item off the list anyway!
 
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Calgary40 said:
Hopefully it now seals for you, those oil pans can be a pain in the butt to replace and get to seal properly, I've done a few and only one was relatively easy. Use the FPIG from toyota (fix in place gasket) and be sure the u parts of the seal don't flip in when bolting up.
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x2, those oil pan gaskets are buggers!

Hope she is staying leak free for you...
 
I posted a thread in the 40/55 section about a throw out bearing issue Friday.

forum.ih8mud.com

New clutch throw out bearing bad after 2 weeks?

Hi everyone. 2 weeks ago I had a local shop install a new clutch in my 73 FJ55, including new pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal, and trans front seal. I bought the parts from Cruiser Corps. The fork and slave were in solid shape so I didn't do them. Less...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

I'm pretty sure they installed it backwards. Can any of you confirm the part that spins should be facing the fingers on the pressure plate, and that mine is in fact backwards? I took the cover off and felt the spinning surface facing rear and the flat surface facing forward, but the shop called me after I dropped it off this morning and told me it's right, based on the fact that the old one that came out had the flat surface facing the pressure plate. The old one is seized so you can't tell what was supposed to spin on that one, but I'm starting to spuspect that was installed wrong by the PO.

If not and this is installed right, the bearing went bad in 2 weeks or they screwed it up when installing it. I really need the right information to hold somebody's feet to the fire here. Cruiser Corps has been helpful but is essentialy taking the position that there's no way their bearing is bad. The shop say it's installed right, although i'm really doubting them considereing they pinched my reverse light wiring harness on the origianl install. Factor in the pilot bearing being bad from the kit and you have to wonder did they damage that on install, or was it actually dented out of the box like the said. All I know is if I they try get me shell out the $500 for labor on a new bearing isntall, I'm gonna kill a MOFO

toB3.jpg


my to B.jpg
 
Hoping for them to get an open lift later today so I can go down there and show them what I felt, but won't be able to until after 3 pm and then it depends what their schedule is like. I'm bringin my damn tools and will take the cover off in the parking lot if I have to! I think the issue is there are lots of different looking versions of the throw out bearing and it makes it hard to know what's what. Here's the one they took out, which apears to have lips on both sides. Also here's the one I bought that I know has one flat side. Hard to tell but it looks to me like the side that's facing up on that new one would be the spinning side and what I beleive to be facing rear to the trans in mine (last image)

old TOB.jpg


CC TOB no mark up.JPG


new TO bearing.jpg
 
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Calgary40 said:
I guess I should have stated, I am pretty sure the wide side turns and that yours looks correct. I would look to another who has been in there in the last 5 years to confirm
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Understood. I'm gonna go down and inspect it with them hopefully today, regardless. I know I felt the front side not moving and feeling solid, but I do think that was the wider side.... but like I said, I'm seeing more than a few of these styles types of bearings

follow up - the owner at cruiser corps just texted me based on the same pics that it appears to be installed correctly, but I'm still not sold. I know what i felt under there. Maybe the bearing was damaged during install and it's not spinning correctly. If it is inf fact installed correctly, the shop is surely going to hit me for labor and likely the cost of a new bearing.
 
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scrapdaddy said:
With your foot off the pedal, you should be able to spin the bearing easy and tell then.
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Ok. I thought I read that Friday, so I tired that and it doesn't spin. The only thing that spins is the back of the bearing. I even grabbed a huge set of channel locks to grab it to try spin it. barely moved, not even sure it moved at all. Did they smash it installing it maybe?
 
scrapdaddy said:
The slave cylinder might not be adjusted right. If the slave cylinder rod doesn't have any play in it then it's too tight. The TOB needs to have some free play when the clutch is engaged (foot off the pedal).
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I know it wouldn't spin by hand, so this probably the case. I can almost see the fingers touching the bearing,...however, I had a the pedal pushed down with some boards at one point so I could run it and listen to the noise from underneath, and I think I may have taken that picture while the pedal was pressed...and then maybe tested the beariing while the pedal was pressed? I don't remember. Set to go to the shop at 7:30 tommorow with it on the lift so I'll see what we see
scrapdaddy said:
The slave cylinder might not be adjusted right. If the slave cylinder rod doesn't have any play in it then it's too tight. The TOB needs to have some free play when the clutch is engaged (foot off the pedal).
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Scrappdaddy, that was it! Had them back the slave all the way back and it broke free but still rubbed a little. Will need to back down the tips on the pressure plate a turn or 2 to get it 100% free. They fought me and said 40 yrs of experience said the bearing should always spin with the motor but I pressed them on this and they backed down. I'm no expert but Im pretty sure that's bull****. I had a WRX that are known for TO bearing issues because people burn them out early becuase they have thier feet barely touching the clutch pedal, causing extra spin and premature wear.

So is it common to have to adjust the tips on the pressure plate fingers to create enough space for the bearing to be free? I saw they are a nut and bolt set up so clearly we'll need to get some thread lock on those once they get adjusted!

Thanks again to everyone who chimed in. I'd be getting raked over the coals without all these info bullets in the chamber!
 
I've been installing a hydraulic tob on a restomod, spec is .060 gap, so not touching. I cant see how you would adjust the fingers, but you could have crap at the pivot or if the pivot is a bolt, it may be loose and pushing things closer together, alternatively there could be crud behind the tob not allowing it to rebound- i dont think any of these are really likely, but maybe possible.
 
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