I honestly think that’s a great choice. Wish there were more options of 35x11.5 and 37x11.5.
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LC200JG
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I read on the tundra swap mega thread that there was a difference in shocks, but I'd have to double check. the 37x11.5x17 certainly presents a possible working combo, but I would really want a mud tire
I totally understand. I’ve progressively moved from A/T to Hybrid, then to a larger A/T, then finally a M/T and now wouldn’t look back
And I wish there were more options in the narrow M/T market too. I personally feel they will eventually come to market as more people request them for fitment. Years ago the domestic off-road market ran trucks and Jeeps that could more easily fit wider tires (sometimes ok for mud bogs). While the foreign markets ran narrow tires on Rovers and classic cruisers. We’ll catch on eventually
If anyone wants to get a little crazier, Nitto makes their Ridge Grappler in a 38x12.5r17 (normally 38’s go to a 13.5 wide tire) and it only weighs 81.9lbs. Reasonably light for the size. And I’m not a Nitto fanboy, but they appear to be one of the first companies to recognize this need.
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Get a tread Groover and any tire can become a mud tire
That’s true and some of the best tires I’ve seen perform were ones that had their warranties quickly removed with such tools
I immediately removed my warranties by siping both of my M/T tires.
So. Reviving this thread. I have a pile of parts that I'm just waiting to find the time to install.
Tundra front end parts
- JBA Offroad upper control arms (although I love my current total chaos upper control arms, the uniballs take a beating in 4 season weather here in the northeast)
- Moog lower control arms
- Moog outer tie rods
- CVs from a crashed 2019 tundra that I re-booted with OEM kits
- Fresh new eccentric cam bolts for the lower control arms
Misc parts
- 1" body lift pucks from 4crawler
- new body mount bolts
- fabricated radiator drop brackets
- rear kdss extension arm & longer swaybar link from superior engineering
Im currently running +25MM offset wheels from icon. I have a 37x12.5x17 tire that I'll mount to a spare rim for clearancing purposes. Im quite worried that I won't be able to properly clear the driver side KDSS arm, but I guess I'll swap over the tundra components and see what happens
Tundra front end parts
- JBA Offroad upper control arms (although I love my current total chaos upper control arms, the uniballs take a beating in 4 season weather here in the northeast)
- Moog lower control arms
- Moog outer tie rods
- CVs from a crashed 2019 tundra that I re-booted with OEM kits
- Fresh new eccentric cam bolts for the lower control arms
Misc parts
- 1" body lift pucks from 4crawler
- new body mount bolts
- fabricated radiator drop brackets
- rear kdss extension arm & longer swaybar link from superior engineering
Im currently running +25MM offset wheels from icon. I have a 37x12.5x17 tire that I'll mount to a spare rim for clearancing purposes. Im quite worried that I won't be able to properly clear the driver side KDSS arm, but I guess I'll swap over the tundra components and see what happens
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
So. Reviving this thread. I have a pile of parts that I'm just waiting to find the time to install.
Tundra front end parts
- JBA Offroad upper control arms (although I love my current total chaos upper control arms, the uniballs take a beating in 4 season weather here in the northeast)
- Moog lower control arms
- Moog outer tie rods
- CVs from a crashed 2019 tundra that I re-booted with OEM kits
- Fresh new eccentric cam bolts for the lower control arms
Misc parts
- 1" body lift pucks from 4crawler
- new body mount bolts
- fabricated radiator drop brackets
- rear kdss extension arm & longer swaybar link from superior engineering
Im currently running +25MM offset wheels from icon. I have a 37x12.5x17 tire that I'll mount to a spare rim for clearancing purposes. Im quite worried that I won't be able to properly clear the driver side KDSS arm, but I guess I'll swap over the tundra components and see what happens
so here’s some crap pictures to give you some idea of clearance. I don’t know if the swaybar mounts the same on a Land Cruiser, but these are 37s on RW with 1” spacer. Normal height full lock on factory turn stops
If you can take a reference location/measurement on frame I’ll try to duplicate for you to see what you’ll be facing
I think there is at least one person trying a Russian KDSS bracket combined with the Slee bracketSo. Reviving this thread. I have a pile of parts that I'm just waiting to find the time to install.
Tundra front end parts
- JBA Offroad upper control arms (although I love my current total chaos upper control arms, the uniballs take a beating in 4 season weather here in the northeast)
- Moog lower control arms
- Moog outer tie rods
- CVs from a crashed 2019 tundra that I re-booted with OEM kits
- Fresh new eccentric cam bolts for the lower control arms
Misc parts
- 1" body lift pucks from 4crawler
- new body mount bolts
- fabricated radiator drop brackets
- rear kdss extension arm & longer swaybar link from superior engineering
Im currently running +25MM offset wheels from icon. I have a 37x12.5x17 tire that I'll mount to a spare rim for clearancing purposes. Im quite worried that I won't be able to properly clear the driver side KDSS arm, but I guess I'll swap over the tundra components and see what happens
And Lee Sumner ditched his front KDSS when he went to 37’s and doesn’t feel like it is a death trap.
I'm not sure the tundra arms will space the wheels out enough to clear the kdss arm. This is my 35 with a +25 offset wheel. I definitely do not want to ditch my kdss as this is primarily a road vehicle. I can see how atwalz is still running his kdss since he's utilizing 0 offset wheels in conjuction with tundra parts.
The question is, how far can you push the sway bar forward before the KDSS cylinder or arm hits the body mount?
The standard KDSS relo kits move the bar 1" forward which lets 34s clear without issue and 35s clear depending on the alignment, wheel offset, etc. On most vehicles I think you can move the KDSS arm at least another 1/2" forward, but you would need to make your own spacer blocks which push the arm as far forward as is possible. I assume most of the kits don't do this because (a) there are frame welds and so the clearance might vary per vehicle, and (b) the sway bar end links end up at even more extreme angles.
If you do the above, and then mount the sway bar end links outside the LCA cradle (or extend them like you did) I'm pretty sure you'll be in the "35s clear no problem, and I might be able to fit a (non-existent) 36 without rubbing" category. That may not truly fit a 37, but this combined with aggressive offsets might reduce the contact enough that you can live with it.
The standard KDSS relo kits move the bar 1" forward which lets 34s clear without issue and 35s clear depending on the alignment, wheel offset, etc. On most vehicles I think you can move the KDSS arm at least another 1/2" forward, but you would need to make your own spacer blocks which push the arm as far forward as is possible. I assume most of the kits don't do this because (a) there are frame welds and so the clearance might vary per vehicle, and (b) the sway bar end links end up at even more extreme angles.
If you do the above, and then mount the sway bar end links outside the LCA cradle (or extend them like you did) I'm pretty sure you'll be in the "35s clear no problem, and I might be able to fit a (non-existent) 36 without rubbing" category. That may not truly fit a 37, but this combined with aggressive offsets might reduce the contact enough that you can live with it.
I'm currently running the slee relocation brackets and have the links mounted to the outsides of my control arm and can sweep a 35x12.5x17 with no issues.
Super Swamper makes a few different tires in a 36". Take it back old school baby.
…and the BFG’s all run small, so I bet a 37” KM3 is probably close to 36”
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
No they don’t they’re real 37s!!!!! It even said so on my receipt!!!
How far do the slee brackets push the bar forward? i.e. if you look at where the slee bracket fits to the frame and where the sway bar mounts are, could you push that further forward or does the slee bracket sit further forward than Trail Tailor and Roadvision and a couple other ones I've seen online?
hoser
SILVER Star
When I measure my tire diameter using the standard method outlined by the Tire and Rim Association, they pretty much match the manufacturers specs.
What is their method? Inflate pressure to maximum (80psi for most E load) for 24 hrs. No weight on tire, measure circumference at the center of the the tread. Divide measurement by Pi and you get the diameter.
With the vehicles weight and less than maximum tire pressure, might measure as low as 95% diameter.... but at 80mph, it'll be really close to 100% diameter.
Ill add that a lot of the builds don’t make sense either. I was duped for example, Toyo 285/70r17 (mine) width is 11.5”. 285/75r17 (what i shouldve bought) 11.2” wide.
Also, ive had a random made in japan LT tire on my set of 5 i returned to DT for made in USA to have a matching construction process tire. Second time ive been burned by trusting Toyo at their word.
My only point is, get eyes and meaures on tires in person. Always.
Never trust anything listed in specs, specially not sizes.
Also, ive had a random made in japan LT tire on my set of 5 i returned to DT for made in USA to have a matching construction process tire. Second time ive been burned by trusting Toyo at their word.
My only point is, get eyes and meaures on tires in person. Always.
Never trust anything listed in specs, specially not sizes.
