What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (13 Viewers)

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@ttrmike
Very interested in details.
I had one of those in my Tundra and have been trying to find a similar solution for the 200.

Did you capture any photos of the pin work you did? I've been contemplating the Hypertech as well. I've hear it is night and day difference.

A separate thread for this pls!!! Interested in deets.

For reference I installed on a 2008 Land Cruiser.

THIS is the hypertech I ordered. What I received was 730199, which is labeled for a 2007-2013 Tundra.

Hypertech LC install Connector Pins2.png

*Uploaded a more useful note page this time.

I didn't take any photos during the process, but once you have the gauges out (easyyy), you depin/repin connector E7 and reassemble. Minus EWD research, total project time was around 30min.

Side note, I had some difficulty downloading the Hypertech software needed to program the computer from their site, but customer service was prompt in getting me the download files.

The Tundra forums also indicate that the hypertech intercepts the CAN signals from the wheel speed sensor prior to the ECU, and their scanguages would indicate the modified signal speed, not the actual (slower) speed from the sensors, and would alter their transmission shift points. I didn't not observe this, likely due to difference in CAN signal routing, so my scanguage indicates the original (unmodified) wheel sensor speed and exhibited no such change in transmission shifting.
 
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Removed the running boards in preparation of installing the Slee sliders.
 
In the last couple of weeks, installed my Budbuilt expedition skids with an oil/filter change and BJowett oil filter housing/fumoto valves. I also installed my Budbuilt step sliders and Landshark Reef drawers. Rear Rigid LED lights in bumper reflectors. Greased the drive shafts.

Have been working on the KDSS valves for three days. Got one to move today, but snapped a bit in the other one. More Kroil applied and waiting for the replacement bits to arrive.

The worst part of all of this work are the rusted fasteners from salted roads here in the Northeast. I hate drilling out broken bolts and retapping...

It's the downside of having to buy used rigs that have been in the harsh environment of salted roads.

I fantasize about buying a pristine new 200 and then removing every underbody fastener to anti seize them, repainting the welds on the frame, treating it for preventative rustproofing (Fluid-film, etc) and then keeping it for 20+ years...
 
Swapped my LX rack for an LC roof rack. Special thanks to @Eric Sarjeant for donating these to the cause. I really like having the extra length and black looks SO much better than the grey LX rails. Unfortunately, the LC rails are slightly wider than the LX rails so my custom 80/20 rails are too short. I will have to either order new rails or follow @grinchy and stick with 4 stock rails. At this point I probably should have just bought an aftermarket roof rack, but what fun is that?!

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Hard to stretch 8020...I should have known it wouldn't be a straight swap.

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Swapped out the steering gear rack.
220k miles and it was loose, made weird noises and started to leak.

Total pain in the @$$ job. Had to remove CVs, front diff and old rack. Oddly, the aftermarket BDS sway bar links cleared the old steering rack, and the new one hit horribly.
Had to re-install the OEM sway bar links.

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Dropped my truck at the shop for upgrades and goodies. BudBuilt skids, suspension fun, shaping up to be a good week.

What suspension you end getting? Think I saw a peak of where your truck might be... :cool:
 
285/75R18s will fit* at stock ride height.

*with Tundra conversion, removal of front mud flaps, modifying the forward most rocker panel mount, and clearancing the front of the inner fender well.

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BFH applied!

I was so close to using BFH, but unbolting the rocker panel from the mount and using a pry bar and the tire to push it backwards was a solution with much more finesse. I still need to clean it up a bit as the plastic is warped (only inside the wheel well) and looks like crap due to the mounting surface now being angled.
 
I was so close to using BFH, but unbolting the rocker panel from the mount and using a pry bar and the tire to push it backwards was a solution with much more finesse. I still need to clean it up a bit as the plastic is warped (only inside the wheel well) and looks like crap due to the mounting surface now being angled.
Yeah, I just twisted that mount off and zip tied the rocker panel back. If only i'd used black zip ties . . .
 
Pulled my Nokian snow tires and put Nitto RGs back on. And as per my MO, neglected to torque the lugs until leaving the house for work this morning when I remembered. Busy times at work and home can lead to stupid sh*t in the garage...
 
Dealer service visit yesterday. Went to Cedar Park Toyota. Service was seat belt recall, T-SB for transmission, shudder issue when braking, TX state inspection, and navigation maps update. Vehicle was at 43K miles ( I purchased it used with 14400). Seat belt and T-SB done no issue. I ended up needing front brake pads replaced and rotors turned for shudder issue. My left front alignment toe was out to left. I will get this fixed in 2k more miles when I go to NTB for oil change and tire rotation/alignment. I have 3 year contract for that. State inspection was done. No on new Navigation maps no chip in stock and would be back order item.

Personal thoughts on dealer service department. Nice friendly, typical up-sale, got lecture on T-SB are not really fixes but information for tech on how to trouble shoot issue and that I should not pay much attention to forums. Over priced on new pads and rotor turn and overpriced on software install for TSB. I thinking in future I will handle next brake pads and rotors as I now know what to look for. Just odd never had vehicle that did not make 100K on front brake pads.
 
Just odd never had vehicle that did not make 100K on front brake pads.
That’s par for the course. I bought mine with 26k on the clock, and the front pads and rotors were spent by 38k.
 
That’s par for the course. I bought mine with 26k on the clock, and the front pads and rotors were spent by 38k.

I also think it's how the vehicle is driven. I went 97K on my Tacoma and pads/rotors were still good.
 
I also think it's how the vehicle is driven. I went 97K on my Tacoma and pads/rotors were still good.
No argument there. The truck had a trailer brake controller, and saved locations all over Texas. I'm assuming there was quite a bit of camper towing without much engine braking. However, don't be surprised if your cruiser's brakes don't have the same lifespan as the taco.
 

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