'94 Tires and Stability

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Joined
Jul 25, 2017
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Location
Texas
'94 V6 4x4 145K - recent purchase. Wheels are 17" ; tiresare 5 years old (DOT) good tread. On hiway curve at 50mp + the truck stability is sketchy (not as bad as '72 Delta 88 but with a higher center of gravity, I don't like it.
So, get new tires for the "17s? Trade the 17s for 15" wheels and get new tires? Something else?
I put 8K on it a year and use it primarly for home work; however I'm on the hiway 80 miles round trip 5 times a month and I like a tight ride. When I turn the steering wheel I want the wheels and tires to be responsive and I don't like the high center of gravity (I could just dirve slower) Thanks for the beta!

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My first thought is it's not the tires, it's a combination of you and the truck. You are expecting sports car performance out of a "high center of gravity" pickup. Toyota trucks have never been known for performance handling. I would check your tire pressure. Don't inflate to the max on the tire. Find the tag on the truck with the correct pressure for that vehicle and use that. It should be something like 26psi front, and 30psi rear. I would also check your steering linkage for wiggle.
 
I was hoping that wasn't the case, as you adeptly determined. Thanks for saving me the dough.
The OEM's would be 15s, is the psi the same for 17s and 15s? Now I'm really revealing my ignorance.
 
I was hoping that wasn't the case, as you adeptly determined. Thanks for saving me the dough.
The OEM's would be 15s, is the psi the same for 17s and 15s? Now I'm really revealing my ignorance.
The short answer is yes. The engineering answer is no. But, it's a good starting point.
 
You could have other suspension issues going on. Worn bushings, poor alignment, worn idler arm, bad shocks, tired springs etc.

Or everything could be 100% fine and you aren’t used to an old 4x4 feel.

What’s your point of reference? For example I think my 89 4Runner on stock suspension and unbalanced 35” MTs drives like a sports car, but I’ve put lots of miles on VERY s***ty 4x4s - my tolerance for on road shenanigans may be a little wider than yours.

Point being the last thing I would point a finger at would be those tires/wheels unless the tires are very over/under filled with air pressure or have visually obvious poor wear patterns.
 
Zoom in on that second pic, do you have a funky wear pattern? @BlueCruiser84 may be right, you may have a worn component or are out of alignment.
 
This
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The tires were overfilled (long story on how my brain rationalized that) which may have contribute to, or have caused the wear funk you (and I) are seeing. I'll report back after hiway driving. Just the short drive I took today was night and day. Uber-Kind, Gents.

Historical Point of reference - SAABs, LCs and Subarus. No pickups.
Today , the pickup and
'86 HJ61 12HT RHD, AU 277km
'97 40th (39K miles)
 
When I turn the steering wheel I want the wheels and tires to be responsive and I don't like the high center of gravity (I could just dirve slower) Thanks for the beta!

Sounds to me like you shoulda bought a Porsche. :p

Check the endlinks and mount bushings on the swaybar up front.
 
The tires were overfilled (long story on how my brain rationalized that) which may have contribute to, or have caused the wear funk you (and I) are seeing. I'll report back after hiway driving. Just the short drive I took today was night and day. Uber-Kind, Gents.

Historical Point of reference - SAABs, LCs and Subarus. No pickups.
Today , the pickup and
'86 HJ61 12HT RHD, AU 277km
'97 40th (39K miles)

well sounds like you aren’t new to ponderous old 4x4s. Your pickup should be firmer and more “sporty” (can you use that word with Toyota 4x4s?) than an 80 - at least in my experience.

also check your idler arm. I have seen some scary wear on those.
 
For reals. Always carry a spare
Geez Grant, I remember when you did that.

I think the suggestion of the front out of alignment is something I would look at. The wear pattern that Grant pointed out would be due to an alignment issue, not over inflation. Over inflation would wear out the middle of the tire, not the edge. Before you take it in for an alignment you need to fix the worn parts that took it out of alignment.
 
Those also look like rando junk tires so they could just be poor quality which is affecting your performance. Find some 15" or 16" 6 lug toyota wheels and put them on with some 31's or 265s in a quality tire and see if that helps.
 
x2 on the random tire brand... get some falken wild peak A/Ts
 
So now we are getting into the reason for my query: I don't want to get new tires, if I don't like the 17" stability. I did get some hiway driving in tonight and the air pressure reduction provides a significant improvement in control. I don't believe there is an alignment issues cause I get no steering vibration and no pull (is this good rational?). But I'll check the other suggestions and if all good, go back to determining if I get new tires, or new wheels AND tires. Think I'll be able to trade the 17s for 15s or 16s?
 
So now we are getting into the reason for my query: I don't want to get new tires, if I don't like the 17" stability. I did get some hiway driving in tonight and the air pressure reduction provides a significant improvement in control. I don't believe there is an alignment issues cause I get no steering vibration and no pull (is this good rational?). But I'll check the other suggestions and if all good, go back to determining if I get new tires, or new wheels AND tires. Think I'll be able to trade the 17s for 15s or 16s?
If you want to keep your current tires I would still suggest you take the advice given so far. Check your steering components, and get an alignment. Vibration is usually not an alignment issue. Wheel balance, worn bearings, and worn suspension is. It doesn't have to pull to be out of alignment.
 
OK - I’ve earned yet another moron badge. Here is pic of front mud flap causing tire tread funk. Yes I’d like new name brand tires, but shouldn’t I also trade the 17s for 16s or 15s? No need to buy new 17 tires if I’m going to get smaller rims.

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If you don’t want 17s don’t buy tires until you have the wheels you want.

There’s really no specific reasons NOT to run 17s other than preference. Mine has had 15s, 16s and 17s on it and its always driven the same.
 
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