'93 80 vs. '97 LX (1 Viewer)

[DSRTRDR]

I guess I never posted that the LX got new tires, too

Maxxis BigHorn - same size as on the '93 80 and the 40 - got the same cool deal as before that was advertised by PepBoys, by having the price matched at 4Wheel Parts who have a much better tire warranty

 

[ChaseTruck]

Just for the record - this one's for the "no good deed goes unpunished" list:

(1) the problem: decided to wash & wax the '80 on Saturday, including a quick under the hood spray-down with engine cleaner, followed by a water rinse. Drive back into garage w/o problems. Hand-polish in the shade of the garage.

(2) the consequence: Sunday morning - truck stumbles on idle, pushing gas pedal down results in the truck revving up, cutting out at 2,300 rpm, recovering at ~1,000rpm, revving up, cutting out at 2,300 rpm, recovering at ~1,000rpm, etc. Letting off the gas - engine quits. Starts fine, drive back in garage.

(3) the resolution: get on Mud, read several threads on engine cutting out. Inconclusive, fuel filter was evoked as potential problem, as well as 'electrical harness issue at EGR'. Contemplated to unhook the battery to perhaps settle any electronic confusion caused by water or so, but decided there was overall not enough conclusive info to warrant touching the truck again. And the garage is too hot these days, anyways.
It started up and ran just fine on Monday morning...

 

[Tools R Us]

Most often, the fix is to remove the TPS connector, evict the tadpoles, dry the swamp, and reconnect. For some reason that connector isn't weather sealed, adding some silicone grease before reconnecting reduces the chance of a repeat performance.

 

[Tools R Us]

Or,,, the whole wash/wax thing is overrated.

 

[Howard705]

Always run the engine up to full temp after washing- driving is even better- you get all the wind through the grill and get it hot. Then park it hot evaporates most everything.

 

[ChaseTruck]

Or,,, the whole wash/wax thing is overrated.

yeah, well... but sometimes it keeps the peace in the fleet...

Always run the engine up to full temp after washing- driving is even better- you get all the wind through the grill and get it hot. Then park it hot evaporates most everything.

Noted, but the truck ran fine right after the wash.

 

[ChaseTruck]

So: driver's seat doesn't want to move forward/backward in the '93.

Plastic gears were replaced a few years ago; there was a little wear on one of them, so I changed that out since I had everything apart anyways. It seems the electric motor for front/aft movement 'gets tired' rather quickly, even when actuated without a load - runs for a bit, then slows down to a crawl/halt. Voltage supply seems steady, don't know whether that's the case for current; other electrical functions of the seat are not affected.

I'm contemplating stealing the motor from the passenger side for a bit...

 

[Tools R Us]

I have some spares that you are welcome to. IIRC, all of the seat motors use a common power supply wire, so if only one motor is affected, it's not likely to be a power supply problem, would be a switch and/or motor problem.

 

[ChaseTruck]

Thanks for the offer - might take you up on it.
Switch seems fine, put the meter to it, didn't see any resistance readings that would make me think there's something wrong.

Right now, the seat is all the way back, which is fine with me...

 

[ChaseTruck]

So: 'New-to-us' seat motor this weekend fixed the issue on the '93.

And it seems the persistent shudder at 2,200-2,400rpm under throttle on the LX is gone after installation of a new throttle position sensor.

 

[ChaseTruck]

And it seems the persistent shudder at 2,200-2,400rpm under throttle on the LX is gone after installation of a new throttle position sensor.

Well, perhaps we declared victory a bit too soon on this one; the shudder appears now to be at 1,800-2,000 rpm.

I did my tire rotation on the '93, where I found the inside of the PS rear brake rotor to be wet:

Everything else appears to be bone dry. Didn't smell like gear oil. Brake fluid? I haven't noticed a decrease in brake performance. Further investigation will have to wait until next weekend, though.

 

[Tools R Us]

If it's coming out the center, vented area of the rotor, it's most likely the hub/wheel bearing grease seal.

 

[ChaseTruck]

Ok, new right rear hub seal(s) on the '93 as of today. Leak may have been caused by a loose wheel hub, not by seal failure; I could wiggle the hub a bit once I had the caliper off. Spent most of my time making the SST; only had aluminum around, no steel; not very durable, but worked.

 

[ChaseTruck]

News for the LX - thanks to Tools R Us for the tire carrier/Puma mount:

For the Puma, SB120 onto the stock Puma harness, then 4 gauge to the battery, with a 60A breaker:

 

[ChaseTruck]

So, this is the first Puma compressor I've set up with a 60A-rated breaker instead of a simple 60A Maxi fuse.

Of course, on the first air-up yesterday, it tripped the breaker (none of my two others had ever tripped the fuse...) - which then refused to be reset ... It did comply after a while, and no more shenanigans while airing up the rest of the tires. We'll see how long that breaker (I got it on amazon a while back, originally destined for something else) remains on that truck.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

So, this is the first Puma compressor I've set up with a 60A-rated breaker instead of a simple 60A Maxi fuse.

Of course, on the first air-up yesterday, it tripped the breaker (none of my two others had ever tripped the fuse...) - which then refused to be reset ... It did comply after a while, and no more shenanigans while airing up the rest of the tires. We'll see how long that breaker (I got it on amazon a while back, originally destined for something else) remains on that truck.

Check your wiring in the pressure switch if you rewired it for interference head bleed valve, Rudster had a problem after his was rewired. FWIW I know of many PUMA's running off a 50Amp Buss breaker and never a problem.

 

[ChaseTruck]

Thanks for the info; I didn't touch the wiring on the Puma itself, just added the power pole connector.
The breaker sits on the back of the battery box, facing the evap canister - maybe there's a temperature issue.
As I said, after a few minutes (spent rummaging through the boonie box in order to cobble up a temporary solution for the problem...) the breaker could be reset, and it held for the rest of the tires. We'll see what happens next time.

 

[ChaseTruck]

New hood struts on the '93 as of today - does that count as tech, or merely quality of life improvement?

 

[ChaseTruck]

Coolant flush, new T-stat, and black hub fan clutch with 15k fluid on the LX in AZ = about 10°F reduction in coolant temps across the board.

So, not to be outdone in the attention-getting department of the fleet, the '93 80 here in BTR has developed a fuel leak from the gas tank just by sitting idle in the garage...

P.S. LX Puma compressor wiring: breaker is gone, we're back to a maxi-fuse, no more problems since.

 

[ChaseTruck]

Biggest Toyota box ever... should be fun next weekend