'93 80 vs. '97 LX (1 Viewer)

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Looks good!

...
And I probably should clean the rim to avoid surprises at the next tire rotation...

That stuff is like tire tattoo, difficult to remove.
 
This wasn't so much of a case of a failed inner axle seal (well, maybe a little bit...), but a failed wiper seal, with too much grease in the knuckle. The streak on the knuckle in the "clean" picture always looked and felt dry - so I added some more grease. Ended up being too much of a good thing... incidentally, the dry streak corresponded to the wiper seal failure - go figure.

Thank you! Looks clean :cool:

Our only gripe is that Cruiser Outfitters recently changed the color of their shipping boxes...

It used to be a white box, and so I didn't need to check what was in it because it was clear that it was a "Kurt box"... :)
 
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Our only gripe is that Cruiser Outfitters recently changed the color of their shipping boxes...

It used to be a white box, and so I didn't need to check what was in it because it was clear that it was a "Kurt box"... :)

^^^^ X2, on the upside, the new boxes are slightly larger, so when using part of a kit, the remains are easier to fit back in the box.
 
Our only gripe is that Cruiser Outfitters recently changed the color of their shipping boxes...

It used to be a white box, and so I didn't need to check what was in it because it was clear that it was a "Kurt box"... :)

^^^^ X2, on the upside, the new boxes are slightly larger, so when using part of a kit, the remains are easier to fit back in the box.

:D

We actually still use both color boxes, just depends on which we have most of during "arts and crafts day" which is what we call the days we assemble all the kits. Generally speaking, kits w/o wheel bearings will be in a white box, kit's with wheel bearings will be in brown box. But that is only true 1/2 the time ;)
 
Hm. I never change wheel bearings if I don't have to...

Can we request color of shipping box at the next order?
:)
 
now, that is customer service :cheers:

and, yes, we are that old that finding a box quick depends on its color/shape - at least we remember something :rolleyes:
 
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What if your color blind.? May be confused as to what you order.
 
What if your color blind.? May be confused as to what you order.

The part number and description are labeled on the box :D
 
Just for the record, no-start on the '93. Wiggling the fusible links seemed to ID a problem; new fusible links appear to have fixed it.
Thanks to Tools R Us for coaching / encouragement. :)
 
No.

I don't do that on my trail truck.
Why would I do it on my mall crawler?
:)


P.S. PHH appears to be some sort of silicon hose. And as far as I've heard, '93 head gaskets were still the good stuff, with plenty of asbestos in it.
 
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So, intermittent no-start issues continue on the '93; correlated with momentary loss of power. And when it starts, it's unhappy and doesn't want to idle. Good thing there's a hand throttle. I have a bit of dielectric grease in the fusible link plug, and the battery is disconnected for now.

I think we have a case of vehicular jealousy here. I've been working quite a bit on the K5 to get it trail-ready, and the LX just got new shoes.
I'm convinced these things somehow know when someone else in the fleet gets all the attention, and then one of them is pouting...
 
For now, this did the trick to make it idle again:

1993 Fj80 Rough Idle, runs great other than that Thanks for posting!

First round of this brought idle back to 500; drive around the block in stop and go made made it drop by 50rpm at each stop.
Did the dance again, started it, let it run in the driveway, and after a while (as temps came up) idle stabilized at ~600.

I thought about testing the IAC motor with the voltmeter, but a tube from the S/C assembly is in the way, so...

Anyways, two longer drives later ( ~6 miles each), and the idle has settled at ~600.
 
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Throttle feel on the '93 had developed more and more resistance over time - new throttle cable appears to solve that. I think I can take out a bit more slack, but I'll drive it first for a bit.
Old cable on the left, new one on the right. Outer layer in the old one was damaged/melted/worn through/missing in many places.
Routing with the S/C is a bit awkward; I think I'll make some more brackets to hold the cable where it is now.

P1010587.JPG


By the way, here's the other part of the fleet, in service last weekend...

P1010519.jpg
 
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... I think I can take out a bit more slack, but I'll drive it first for a bit.
...

The proper adjustment: Hold the pedal floored, adjust the cable for zero (just) slack at WOT.

By the way, here's the other part of the fleet, in service last weekend...

View attachment 1162223

That one has some '80 parts!:hillbilly:

Have been busy wheeling, out with Forest engineering yesterday, senator Worsley and his wife today. :cool:
 
Anyways: brackets to rout the throttle cable - prior route was in front of the P/S reservoir. The way is is now means the turn to get to the throttle body isn't so tight

P1010588.JPG

I think I'm ok with just holding the cable off the valve cover, not sure I like the zip tie at the steel line. For now, it'll have to do.

P1010589.JPG
 
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new bumper on the LX as of today :)
 

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