80 series vs other Toyota vs domestic, ease of maintenance (1 Viewer)

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ozarkmud

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I picked up a OBS F-150 a little while back for trash duty and more. It's a vastly less capable vehicle offroad compared to the 80 series, of course, but I keep going back and forth between it and the 80 series when I'm doing maintenance.

I replaced the high pressure P/S line on my 3FE. It's a more annoying job than it looks like it should be. I walk over to my F-150 and it's a completely different experience. The F-150 has the low pressure line as the cooling line, and the high pressure line is very easy to replace. This is smart because usually just the high pressure line leaks. Instead, Toyota made both lines cooling lines that need fancy mounting. Maybe on a RHD rig it's a different experience?

When doing the rear heater delete for the 3FE, I found the access was vastly more awkward to get to the lines going to the heater core. Almost effortless on the F-150, and a bit of a pain on the 80 series.

I replaced the radiator on the 3FE and found that it's nearly a four bolt job on the F-150 and on a Jeep TJ that my friend owns. Toyota recommends pulling the battery to get the radiator out. I find this kind of ridiculous.

Looking back at the firewall on the 3FE vs the F-150, the F-150 has far more access. It seems like the 3FE is positioned further back (I imagine same as the 1FZ) which improves handling, but does make maintenance more difficult.

Part of this may be comparing a full size vehicle with something more compact, but I feel it's more than that. Is Toyota more willing to trade servicability for compactness? Has this always been the case? Is the 60 series better?

I did look up the 60 series radiator replacement, and it also seems to be more involved. The upper radiator mounts are just ridiculous on the 80 series -- trying to get to that nut next to the headlights!

I do feel some of my gripes about the 80 series can be improved, namely the upper radiator mounts. There ought to be a simpler setup. And perhaps, one could run a slightly narrower radiator and have simpler mounting at the cost of some cooling capacity.

I'm just curious what the Toyota design ethos is, and if any Toyotas are as easy to service as some domestics. I had just never realized how easy an old F-150 was to work on, compared to the Toyota. And eyeing my friend's Jeep TJ, it also looks very easy to work on. My experience has almost entirely been on Japanese and German, so this is a new concept to me how drastic the difference can be.

I know this is kind of off topic, but I figure there's some smart and opinionated folks here. I like hearing opinions, so sending this out there.
 
I think you should write a strongly worded letter to Toyota and advise them them to up their maintenance game. 😉
 
They are definitely not the easiest in the world, but the 80 is just a way more tightly engineered vehicle. As a result you deal with more complicated repairs. But I also think the tight engineering is what allows you to go way longer without having to do the job. You've gotta think about where each automaker was then. Toyota was spanking Europe with better engineered, higher quality luxury sedans. In 1990, Ford was contracting the dies for the latest Lincoln Town Car body to a relatively small Japanese coachbuilder so that panels gaps on their flagship sedan weren't worse than on a Tercel.

Now on the flip side, there is something so relaxing about the thought of a vehicle that your local Napa currently has replacement parts for.
 
It's just a different set of design philosophies. In the 90s, a lot of what went into a Ford F150 would have been familiar to a guy who had owned a 70s F150. They were designed to be worked on by bubba, and I don't intend that as a slight - they just knew their customer. Toyota built their rigs to be rugged and dependable first, and serviceable second. Easy repairs are nice, but repairs you don't have to do are better. That does start to come due after 30 years though.

It's pretty similar in Toyotas across the board. I remember changing the fuel filter in my 22RE powered Hilux... I replaced it entirely by braille, never once seeing it installed. I will say, there's a feel to the logic of how Toyotas are put together, and having owned a bunch of them, it makes more sense when you're familiar with them. I'd probably have a much easier time doing those repairs on the 80 than an F150 just because of familiarity with Toyota's tricks.
 
I think part of it is production numbers/year. I think about 550,000 80 series were produced worldwide over 7 years. I mean, the 80 series was a niche vehicle in many markets...

Ford makes almost as many F150s in just a single year just in the US market. They can put more engineers on the platform and that cost is spread across more vehicles.

I am a firm believer that it is harder (and more time consuming) to simplify complex designs. Germans know how to complicate a simple design...😆

I LS swapped my LX450 and I am amazed how simple the L96 is compared to the 1FZ-FE. And yet, the L96 will outlast a 1FZ-FE, has more power, and gets better MPG. L96 is GMs gas motor for their HD trucks and Vans, up until 2020. Doesn't have DOD/AFM. Then it can be rebuilt by any backyard mechanic with a monkey wrench and bailing wire....

I have owned Toyotas since 1989, and Fords since 2000. So, I know both makes very well. I drive a Ford for my daily for the last 25 years...
 
Yeah, those upper radiator support bolts are annoying. I just put in a new radiator. I must of installed-pulled it 4 or 5 times because I’d get one nut on, then drop the second one between the condenser and radiator.
 
I remember from the time when I was a member of the Chevy K5 Blazer community that you could bolt on anything or use any non-OEM part and not instantly incur the wrath of the board :)
 
Yeah, those upper radiator support bolts are annoying. I just put in a new radiator. I must of installed-pulled it 4 or 5 times because I’d get one nut on, then drop the second one between the condenser and radiator.
Yeah my dad and I just replaced my radiator. Had to remove it twice for a few reasons and I do remember those upper nuts being a pain. The AC condenser is very tight fitting in that area.
 
Open the hood on a newer let's say f250 and see if you can see the engine.

I mean, the 7.3L is easy to see, which would be my engine of choice.😁..lol. Good luck finding the diesel though...
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Yall who are in here reminiscing about the "simplicity" repair of an F-150 haven't worked on F-150's built in the last 20 years and done an honest comparison. I've had every generation of F150 since 94 and often with multiples of each. The best one I had was a 99 F150 and an 01 Expedition. Great vehicles. The generations after that, not so much. The WORST one was a 14 Lariat Eco-boost that I bought new, babied, and had dealer serviced up until 100k miles. At 165k, I had done work on vacuum lines, vac pump, hp fuel pump, front 4x4 hubs, wheel hub bearings, multiple ac blower resistors and every friggin' blend door and there are 3, 1 is a total interior removal (each one 2-3 times), Sunroof, and on and on.

Sold it and bought my 80 w/ 105k miles as my daily. I've worked on it and done some things but it's a DREAM compared to satans anus of the latest f150's, yuck!
 
I believe the 80-series was designed for the diesels.

A 1HDT with a manual transmission is way easier to work on in an 80 than the 1FZFE. The 1HZ non turbo is even easier.

Cheers
 
What is the nature of making this thread? Is it rage bait?

But hell I love a random comparison so I’ll play. OP mentioned a high pressure hose being a pain, but my 80 has gone over 350k and not had to have it removed, but I can see it being more difficult than an F150 that would have been through multiple compressors by that time.

To understand the 80 series as a whole, you need to work on a RHD model and realize the complexity of repairs increases to a large degree when the 80 platform was adapted to LHD. Also the 3FE wasn’t really destined for the 80 series as it was an older platform that was adapted until the 1FZ petrol engine passed its durability testing. Those who know the HD diesels, are aware that these engines were 100% the target powertrain for these trucks, and it shows as most repairs and replacements of components are much easier with that engine under the hood.

Also working on the ford trucks in the early 2000’s (As a dealer tech who drove Toyota SUV’s to work and was forced to park across the street because of that) I can tell you that all of these trucks were built with terrible quality control. Does anyone remember Ford being sued for the “Silent Recall” practice in that era? If you noticed a shunt harness attached to your master cylinder with a hidden inline fuse you deserve an internet cookie! This was due to all of the trucks and SUV’s in the late 90’s to mid 00’s burning to the ground from the wiring to the master cylinder catching fire from being shorted with leaking brake fluid. Yes you read that right that all the ford master cylinders leaked externally into the sensor mounted on the front and caught the vehicle on fire and killed people and burned homes down from the ford quality measures of the day…

I’ll take my “hard” to work on 80 any day.
 
Yeah my dad and I just replaced my radiator. Had to remove it twice for a few reasons and I do remember those upper nuts being a pain. The AC condenser is very tight fitting in that area.
They really are a pain, I’m glad I’m not the only one. I do have a special loathing for the alternator tensioning bolt too.
 
I remember from the time when I was a member of the Chevy K5 Blazer community that you could bolt on anything or use any non-OEM part and not instantly incur the wrath of the board :)

I remember working on 70's era GM cars. You could just about strip the whole car with just 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 tools
 
Open the hood on a newer let's say f250 and see if you can see the engine.

I have 04 f150, 5.4L Triton v8. It's bad enough and beer I've are worse. There's some service items on that I will probably take it to a shop to handle.
Spark plugs for example are a known issue.
Extremely difficult to get to the rear cylinders at all, the engine is buried in the firewall.
Then the spark plugs have a sleeve in them that tends to fall apart requiring a special tool and a lot of patience to get them out.

There's some stuff on the f150 that is beefier then a cruiser, then some stuff is surprisingly small. Wheel bearings for example are puny and non-serviceable. Gotta replace the hub assembly.
 
They really are a pain, I’m glad I’m not the only one. I do have a special loathing for the alternator tensioning bolt too.

The alternator tensioning bolt can be a bit of a pain, but it isn't too bad if you have a gear wrench. The right forearm can receive some scratches from the power steering clamps, but I am pretty sure the bracket can be unbolted and moved to the side to give a little more room and save your arm.

Overall I feel like the 80 hasn't been bad to work on but I really haven't worked on anything else consistently to compare it with.
 
The alternator tensioning bolt can be a bit of a pain, but it isn't too bad if you have a gear wrench. The right forearm can receive some scratches from the power steering clamps, but I am pretty sure the bracket can be unbolted and moved to the side to give a little more room and save your arm.

Overall I feel like the 80 hasn't been bad to work on but I really haven't worked on anything else consistently to compare it with.
It is doable for sure with a ratcheting wrench or stubby ratchet. If there was about 1cm more clearance from the steering box hoses it would be super easy.
 
I remember working on 70's era GM cars. You could just about strip the whole car with just 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 tools
Yeah, but then GM started to sprinkle metric stuff over the truck. On my ‘85 for instance, brake bleeders are 10mm, and steering box fittings are 18mm.
 
I have 04 f150, 5.4L Triton v8. It's bad enough and beer I've are worse. There's some service items on that I will probably take it to a shop to handle.
Spark plugs for example are a known issue.
Extremely difficult to get to the rear cylinders at all, the engine is buried in the firewall.
Then the spark plugs have a sleeve in them that tends to fall apart requiring a special tool and a lot of patience to get them out.

There's some stuff on the f150 that is beefier then a cruiser, then some stuff is surprisingly small. Wheel bearings for example are puny and non-serviceable. Gotta replace the hub assembly.
I'm talking about newer Ford diesel trucks my nephew has one he opened the hood up to show me I told him good luck working on that thing the whole big ass engine bay was full.
 

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