Warped head? Coolant in cylinders?
'93 1fz-fe engine knock. Main bearings = toast = cracked crank (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mudgudgeon
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- Thread starter
- #182
Wow. Can't believe it's taken almost a year for me to get back to this.
I still don't have this running because of the oil pressure issue.
I realised my torque wrench calibration was off a mile.
I figured the oil pump might not be getting drive if the crank bolt wasn't correctly torqued.
Finally got around to torquing the crank bolt.
Removed the oil filter, and used a spare filter to make an adapter to hook a hose from a 12volt oil transfer pump to the filter to pump oil into the engine, and hopefully through all the galleries.
Pulled plugs, turned engine over by hand. Feels ok.
Pulled EFI fuse and relay.
Cranked it over with plugs out. Cracks over easy.
Cranked 30 seconds, then paused
Cranked another 30 seconds. No movement on the oil gauge.
Cranked another 30 seconds or so, and still no change.
Pulled the oil filter off, and it's dry. 1½ minutes of cranking should have oil in the filter.
Currently a bit stumped on next course of action.
Indestructible 47
SILVER Star
Wow that really sucks, have you replaced the pressure relief spring or shimmed it at all? Because if its not that and you have no oil in the filter you must either have a blocked pickup or strainer or a bad oil pump (doubtful I reckon).
DivByZero
SILVER Star
Honestly, with the spot you're in, I'd probably just go nuclear, and dive in there and crack open the oil pump. Haven't worked on the 1FZ-FE, but I'm assuming that means taking off all your belts, a few pulleys, and the timing chain to get at it. Is there room to work? If you had to pull the engine to do it that wouldn't be a very attractive prospect.
It seems unlikely any oil is passing through your pump at all if the filter was dry after the procedure you described above. My bet is either your pump isn't turning at all, which would have to mean some mistake in assembly (it's a pretty simple design afterall), or it could be an issue getting the oil to the pump. Opening up the pump would allow you to determine exactly what's going on.
If I was to take a guess, I'd speculate there's something wrong with a seal between the pump and the oil strainer, possibly at the top of the pipe where it bolts to the block under the pan. Maybe the oil pump is working, but sucking in air rather than oil due to a missing/pinched seal or loose join. You could drop the pan first and inspect, it'd save a lot of work if it was this seal at the oil pickup. If it's not that or inconclusive though, you'd be back to opening up the pump itself I think.
Someone else might have a better idea though. I haven't worked on this engine myself.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Does it have oil in it? That’s the extent of my troubleshooting contribution. You’re welcome.
Hope you get this figured out.
Hope you get this figured out.
- Thread starter
- #186
I'm thinking at this point, I'm gonna pull the engine.
By the time I realised I had a problem, it's been run on nothing but assembly lube for about 15-20 minutes, still not getting oil to bearings.
By the time I realised I had a problem, it's been run on nothing but assembly lube for about 15-20 minutes, still not getting oil to bearings.
Unfortunately, the fact that it had a tapping, then stopped and you couldn't turn it by hand, you're probably due for another set of bearings again and have the crank checked out again.
Not sure what would cause a no oil situation unless the pickup fell off in the oil pan or didn't get installed.
Damn! Sorry to hear about this after the struggle you've already had!
- Thread starter
- #188
I was hoping to get it running. I'll need to move it to a different apartment building sometime in the next 6-8 weeks.
Doing it under its own power would be so much easier than flat towing it.
I'd come to the conclusion I'll have to tear it down and inspect everything anyway. Even if I got it running, there's too much of a question mark over the state of bearings, crank etc
Sorry to hear about your situation. I don't want to be "captain obvious." But, did you prime the oil pump per the FSM during the rebuild? Going by memory it specifies putting motor oil in a cavity during reassembly. It's an instruction that could be easy to miss.
- Thread starter
- #190
Sorry to hear about your situation. I don't want to be "captain obvious." But, did you prime the oil pump per the FSM during the rebuild? Going by memory it specifies putting motor oil in a cavity during reassembly. It's an instruction that could be easy to miss.
Yes.
But it sat for a while between assembly and first start. Not sure that has any impact though.
- Thread starter
- #191
Captain obvious can be a big help when I've clearly ****** up something simple.
Whether it just hasn't primed successfully because it sat for a while, or something isn't sealed? I've overlooked something.
Doesn't help you any, but mine sat for maybe a year between rebuild and start. It took some turning over to build pressure, but other than that, no problem.
Jason
- Thread starter
- #193
Thanks. It does help in a small way
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Hopefully it goes much quicker this time around since you know what and how to maneuver yourself
- Thread starter
- #195
I managed to get a confirmed prime on the oil pump using a 12 volt oil transfer pump that's capable of 25psi pressure or so.
I removed the large round plug from the oil suction gallery on the front of the alloy sump. Shoved the pump hose into the oil pump suction gallery, sealed around the hose with a rag wrapped around the hose and ran some oil through it, then turned the engine over, no plugs with the transfer pump running.
The engine fired up straight away. Oil pressure came up to a normal level. Engine sounded good at idle. I let it run at idle until it came up to temp
Listened around the block and head using a long steel tube as a stethoscope
To end sounds fine. Bottom end sounds good too.
I was hearing a very slight knock around pot 5.
I had my hopes up, then it stalled out, and I couldn't turn it over again by hand.
I've exhausted every possibility of running this engine as is. It's gonna come out, and get a full tear down. I'm not gonna risk more damage by running it again. It's a lost cause at this point.
Currently trying to source a used to running engine to get it mobile while I fix the original engine.
I just sold my turbo charged 1HZ for 3 times what I thought I would get for it, so I've got some play money to use to get this right.
I removed the large round plug from the oil suction gallery on the front of the alloy sump. Shoved the pump hose into the oil pump suction gallery, sealed around the hose with a rag wrapped around the hose and ran some oil through it, then turned the engine over, no plugs with the transfer pump running.
The engine fired up straight away. Oil pressure came up to a normal level. Engine sounded good at idle. I let it run at idle until it came up to temp
Listened around the block and head using a long steel tube as a stethoscope
To end sounds fine. Bottom end sounds good too.
I was hearing a very slight knock around pot 5.
I had my hopes up, then it stalled out, and I couldn't turn it over again by hand.
I've exhausted every possibility of running this engine as is. It's gonna come out, and get a full tear down. I'm not gonna risk more damage by running it again. It's a lost cause at this point.
Currently trying to source a used to running engine to get it mobile while I fix the original engine.
I just sold my turbo charged 1HZ for 3 times what I thought I would get for it, so I've got some play money to use to get this right.
DivByZero
SILVER Star
Damn, that really sucks. It's disheartening after putting in all that work.
Do you have a line on an engine? It can be a long wait looking for that bargain in a place you can actually get to it, so it's good you have some cash to drop on it, gives you more options to get something quickly if that's what you need to do.
Do you have a line on an engine? It can be a long wait looking for that bargain in a place you can actually get to it, so it's good you have some cash to drop on it, gives you more options to get something quickly if that's what you need to do.
- Thread starter
- #197
Hopefully. Heading to Thirlmere to look at one tomorrow arvo
- Thread starter
- #198
Out with the shiny, in with the grimey!!
After reading through @80 Life thread, I decided the most sensible thing right now is to swap out the original engine with a used one. Then I can take my time to diagnose and rebuild the original engine
Used engine cleaned, and hanging from the roof.
My engine on the engine crane
Picked up a used engine for $900.
Spent Thursday degreasing and pressure cleaning it, the stripping unwanted parts like cut wiring harness, cut hoses etc.
Discovered several sensors were broken or missing. I knew the oil level sensor, and oil pressure sensor were missing, but a temperature sensor, and both knock sensors were broken.
If I knew how much all these puppies cost, I would have bargained harder on the price.
The top sump had some damage that means it needs replacing, but I got a spare from the engine seller.
Because I'm taking the sump off, I'm going to change the rear main seal too.
With a bunch of new seals, sensors, some hardware, dizzy, plug leads etc etc I've got over $1000 in parts coming
So long as the engine is good, I think I'll recoupe my cost.
Spent time yesterday removing the sump, and flywheel, rear main etc, cleaning old sealant of etc.
Then today, spent time stripping and disconnecting parts off my engine, and pulled it out.
Just plodded along today, with some tunes on. It was about 80⁰f here today, and humid AF, so I was taking it easy.
Happy to have it out. Now I wait for partsouq to cough up my bits and pieces so I can button up the used engine
- Thread starter
- #199
I left the hood on (forgot to take it off)
This meant I had to keep chains on the crane super short.
The crane just cleared the hood to lift the engine. I had to turn the engine sideways and move the crane forward to get clear of the rad support
@jaymar my 2 tonne crane at full stretch. And pushed hard against the bull bar
Turned sideways to get more clearance to the hood.
It's out!
Sketchy moving there crane with the engine so high, and at full stretch. Needs to be on a smooth flat surface.
A little tip, I sprayed some yellow paint on the extension tube for the jib.
It makes it super easy to line up the holes when changing jib length. As you side of in/out you see the yellow spray as the holes approach alignment.
This meant I had to keep chains on the crane super short.
The crane just cleared the hood to lift the engine. I had to turn the engine sideways and move the crane forward to get clear of the rad support
@jaymar my 2 tonne crane at full stretch. And pushed hard against the bull bar
Turned sideways to get more clearance to the hood.
It's out!
Sketchy moving there crane with the engine so high, and at full stretch. Needs to be on a smooth flat surface.
A little tip, I sprayed some yellow paint on the extension tube for the jib.
It makes it super easy to line up the holes when changing jib length. As you side of in/out you see the yellow spray as the holes approach alignment.
Interesting that that can even be done! Thanks for the tag--and the pro paint tip! Questions abound. Like: Okay, it worked--but why would you do it that way? I'd be afraid of bashing the ram into the bull bar and collapsing the whole thing. Lift/tire size? Aired down? Why does the place look like Dexter's kill room? And why is your truck red? Is there something we should know?
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