I had a stand like that. I use to put an axle stand under the front to stop the sag. And that was with a Datsun L28et 6 cylinder!
'93 1fz-fe engine knock. Main bearings = toast = cracked crank
- Thread starter mudgudgeon
- Start date
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I had a stand like that. I use to put an axle stand under the front to stop the sag. And that was with a Datsun L28et 6 cylinder!
- Thread starter
- #162
Set up a torque wrench to torque crank bolt, idea courtesy of @Bambusiero
Thread 'A Low Cost 300 ft-lb Torque Wrench - DIY Shop-Built' A Low Cost 300 ft-lb Torque Wrench - DIY Shop-Built - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-low-cost-300-ft-lb-torque-wrench-diy-shop-built.931012/
I welded a 32mm socket into my high lift jack for another engine project about 15 years ago. Finally found another use for it.
A couple of quick calculations, and welded a useless SAE ½" drive socket to a piece of angle, then bolted it to high lift jack post to give me a 3:1 ratio. Set torque wrench to 102ft lb to torque to 306ftlb
Ready to take it off the stand
Fly wheel on and torqued to spec
New clutch kit
Clutch bolted on
- Thread starter
- #163
Its home!
My son came and helped me drop the engine back in place.
Went fairly well, had it almost home and was wrestling to align bell housing dowels when I realised I hadn't put the clutch throw out bearing in!
so we had to partially lift it out, fit the bearing, then drop the engine back in.Second time it slid in easier, and I managed to align dowels straight up.
Definitely happy to have it in place. Now I can button up a bunch of bits and pieces.
Pretty motor!
Decided against the gates green stripe for PHH?
- Thread starter
- #166
It is Gates hose. I've asked for the green stripe hose a couple of times over here and have not found it.
I'll deal with it in car in the future if I have to again
- Joined
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Good work @mudgudgeon
- Thread starter
- #168
Thanks mate. It's getting there.
Been good to make progress and be able to take time to do it without rushing
Take your time? You're working at lightspeed from my perspective. In the last week I fitted a snorkel and I was pretty chuffed with myself. You rebuilt an engine and dropped it back in lol!
FMC80
SILVER Star
I agree with Nemesis, you’re doing great work at a solid pace. Also, the more I look at the color you chose for your rocker, the more I like it.
- Thread starter
- #171
I'd like to get it done faster, but work has gotten in the way, plus moving house, plus working out of a temporary storage container, plus moving the cruiser out of temporary storage, plus lead time on ordering parts etc etc, so it feels like it has been slow!
- Thread starter
- #172
Thanks.
The colour was Hammer Finish Charcoal Grey.
Red is not my thing, especially not in a maroon cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #173
My partsouq order turned up.
Now I have a couple of weekends worth of projects.
Parts include . . .
Clutch master (already have a new slave)
New clutch hose
Brake master (have had some pedal feel issues that suggest matter is leaking internally)
Brake calliper seal kits
Axle seals
Uni joints. FR + RR
Rear mudflap. Tore one up, so need to trim me one down to match my others.
Oil + air filters
Clips to re-attach hood/headlight seal
Right side battery box (gonna set it up to carry spare fluids. I don't need a second battery)
I have extended braided brake lines coming.
And terrain tamer knuckle rebuild kit coming too.
I redid bearings and birfs in the front a couple of years ago, but want to put new trunion bearings in, and redo knuckle studs. May as well do knuckle seals too.
Also gonna do rear axle seals and wheel bearings. I haven't touched them yet, and figure they could still be original
- Thread starter
- #174
So, seems like I escaped customs duties. Checked my order and I was under the $1k threshold
Food for thought - remove the axle oil seals and run gear oil rather than bearing grease. I did this to my rear axles last weekend:
There's some info about the idea on the forums here somewhere. The oil seals always leak anyway, and you end up with a soup of mixed bearing grease and gear oil. Gear oil is better for the bearings than grease, so may as well go all in. I ditched the paper gasket for the outer seal and went with Threebond 1207C (red-brown), the same stuff Toyota use to seal the diffs and gearbox/transfer. Definitely get all new hardware when you do it though. I replaced the axle studs, and was surprised to see just how bad they were:
Old vs new. Check out that pitting! The paper gasket obviously absorbs moisture over time and allows rust to slowly work on the surface of the stud. You know those stories of people shearing axle studs when wheeling? I suspect more than a few of them are down to this. Another reason to go with the Threebond liquid gasket. No moisture is going to reach those studs now. I just used the double-nut technique to back the old studs out, cleaned the channels, and fitted the new ones. Well worth the effort if you're diving in there. I left my bearings since they were feeling good, but I was disappointed to see the previous owner stuck no-name bearings in the rear. I'll replace them next time I'm in there with Koyo ones for peace of mind, and keep the generics for trail spares.
- Thread starter
- #177
Negative!
Fired this up a week or so before christmas.
It fired up straight away. Set the timing, and it seemed to be running nicely for about 10 minutes. Then it developed a slight tap / knock, and stalled out.
I checked a few basics, then fired it up again. It ran 30 seconds then stalled out again.
Today is the first time I've tried to do anything with it since before Christmas.
Been scratching my head, and been busy with work and other stuff, so haven't touched it.
I replaced the clutch master, and slave cylinder while engine was out.
I had the slave mismatched and clutch wasn't disengaging.
Finally swapped out the slave cylinder today and re-bled the clutch.
Clutch is now working.
Fired it up again, and it sounded OK.
Ran out for a few minutes, but as it warned up, it started tapping again, and stalled out again.
Once it's getting close to running temp, something is binding up.
After it stalled out tonight, I couldn't turn it over by hand.
Makes me think its not getting oil, but oil gauge shows pressure.
Sorry to hear to that.
Any theories as to why? This might be a dumb suggestion but could it be an electrical issue when the ECU gets hot?
I’d think not, if it’s also binding up.
- Thread starter
- #180
Not sure.
Blocked oil gallery maybe?
The old main bearings were shredded badly, maybe some of that metal got caught up in an oil gallery and left it blocked.