'93 1fz-fe engine knock. Main bearings = toast = cracked crank

[BMThiker]

Basically, keep orders below AUD$1000.
Big orders, break them down into smaller orders spaced a few days or a week apart.

Some parts for vehicles over 30 years old don't get customs duty.
Duty is different for petrol vs diesel engine parts. If an order is above $1000, say it's for a 30+ year old petrol vehicle.

Basically, stay under $1000

Would it matter if you split delivery between two different addresses? Make two separate orders at the same time, but have one delivered home, one delivered to project site address?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Would it matter if you split delivery between two different addresses? Make two separate orders at the same time, but have one delivered home, one delivered to project site address?

I was told orders need to be separated a bit. If close together, from the same supplier, and it's apparent that an order has been split to avoid duties, I'd be charged duties anyway.

Different addresses might be sufficient to have the system. Shipping for a second order would have been getting close to the duties paid anyway.

I have stuff like this shipped to a nearby small news agency business ( news stand shop) that acts as a delivery point for numerous freight companies. They are open longer than most other options, so easier to collect.
Deliveries to an apartment building is problematic, as is delivery to work.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Shipping on this order was USD $250ish. close to AUD$400.
Shipping and handling charges as two orders would be more than this. Not double though.

I would have saved some money, but definitely not the full duties bill.

 

[DivByZero]

What I've done before is split between Partsouq and Amayama. You end up waiting significantly longer for Amayama, so I prefer to put non-time critical bits in that order, but if you compare between the two you often find some things that are cheaper on Amayama, so if I have to spend over $1000, I'll split my order across the two vendors, trying to minimize parts and shipping costs by creatively dividing it. You don't have to worry about the timing of the order then either, because it's a separate vendor, so you can dodge customs.

 

[FMC80]

What I've done before is split between Partsouq and Amayama. You end up waiting significantly longer for Amayama, so I prefer to put non-time critical bits in that order, but if you compare between the two you often find some things that are cheaper on Amayama, so if I have to spend over $1000, I'll split my order across the two vendors, trying to minimize parts and shipping costs by creatively dividing it. You don't have to worry about the timing of the order then either, because it's a separate vendor, so you can dodge customs.

You’re still paying twice the shipping charges though. I’m sure there are some instances this method will save fine cash but not sure if it’s worth the delay and deciding what you’re ordering from where.

 

[nickolai]

You’re still paying twice the shipping charges though. I’m sure there are some instances this method will save fine cash but not sure if it’s worth the delay and deciding what you’re ordering from where.

I've found that Amayama ships to a warehouse here in NZ and then it ships to you. This is a recent change and it might be coming in other markets This makes it slower but makes the shipping cheap - like $10.
I haven't tried a big order but I suspect they have the customs cost built in.

 

[DivByZero]

You’re still paying twice the shipping charges though. I’m sure there are some instances this method will save fine cash but not sure if it’s worth the delay and deciding what you’re ordering from where.

You eat more from shipping costs, but that still saves you money in customs, and the parts too if you're careful. I've also found shipping costs can vary wildly between Amayama and Partsouq. Remember the shipping costs are all done by computer. It depends how accurate their data is on weight and volume. I've had luck in the past shipping a higher number of high value low weight/size parts from one vendor though, and a few large parts from the other, to have one high shipping charge and one low one.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Definitely something to keep in mind for big orders.
Flyingg under the radar saves a couple of days with an order not getting caught up and held in bond while duties are calculated and paid. Was hoping I'd have stuff before this weekend. Tracking shows my order out of bond, and sitting at the depot.
FedEx don't answer the phone was hoping I could collect from the depot 45 minutes away.

I would have had the engine in this weekend.

I stopped using amayana, mainly because partsouq pantsed them on the shipping times.

I have used both in the past when partsouq hasn't had everything I needed
I was lucky this time, partsouq had everything I've needed.

I'll shout out Dave Stedman at japan4x4.com too. (Not sure what his handle is on mud)
If I were in less of a hurry for this order, I would have had Dave price everything up.

Partsouq seem to be the fastest turnaround IME

 

[FMC80]

Definitely something to keep in mind for big orders.
Flyingg under the radar saves a couple of days with an order not getting caught up and held in bond while duties are calculated and paid. Was hoping I'd have stuff before this weekend. Tracking shows my order out of bond, and sitting at the depot.
FedEx don't answer the phone was hoping I could collect from the depot 45 minutes away.

I would have had the engine in this weekend.

I stopped using amayana, mainly because partsouq pantsed them on the shipping times.

I have used both in the past when partsouq hasn't had everything I needed
I was lucky this time, partsouq had everything I've needed.

I'll shout out Dave Stedman at japan4x4.com too. (Not sure what his handle is on mud)
If I were in less of a hurry for this order, I would have had Dave price everything up.

Partsouq send to be the fastest turnaround IME

@Japan4X4 for Dave Stedman

I have to admit, I’m a creature of habit and I’ve never ordered from Amayamama. I never knew their shipping lagged so much. Good riddance.

 

[mudgudgeon]

@Japan4X4 for Dave Stedman

I have to admit, I’m a creature of habit and I’ve never ordered from Amayamama. I never knew their shipping lagged so much. Good riddance.

Toyota Australia is always 3 weeks ex. Japan for anything not in stock in Melbourne. Melbourne to Sydney is usually 2-3 days.
My local dealership recently changed to only handling orders online.
Cuts out a last minute inquiries, urgent orders, which is kind of the only reason to use the dealership IMO

Partsouq I've had stuff in 3-5 days out of UAE. Amayama was always somewhere in between around 10 days

 

[mudgudgeon]

Welp, here's what nearby $2000 worth of parts, shipping, and customs duties buys me.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Plug wires 90919-21557

Dust seal for distributor cap 19127-66020

Windscreen rubber 56121-60110

Fan shroud 16711-66031

Distributor cap 19101-66010

 

[mudgudgeon]

Exhaust manifold gaskets 17197-66010.
17173-66010

Intake manifold gaskets 17171-66010. 17179-66010

Gasket, timing chain 11328-66020 this gasket goes between the sump and the timing case to seal the oil pick up tube from the sump.
This is one thing I suspect may be responsible for the oil pressure issue I have with my engine

Throttle body gasket 22271-66010

Rear main seal 90311-99009

Rotor button 19102-61240

 

[mudgudgeon]

PCV valve grommet 90480-18001

Thermostat housing seal 16346-66020

Oil pressure sensor for oil pressure gauge 83520-60011

Temperature sender for gauge 83420-16040

Lower oil pan bolts 90119-06600

 

[DivByZero]

Since you're in parts mode, let me share a tip I got from the machinist I used when doing a 3L rebuild. He said they always replace the oil coolers when they're doing a rebuild after a bearing failure, and they won't warranty any of their work unless this is done. The reason is the inside of the oil coolers is rough and holds material really easily. If you get metal flecks in there, it's almost impossible to get them all out by cleaning, and if they come out during operation after your rebuild, they can go straight into the new bearings and damage them. If you didn't do your oil cooler, might be worth considering.

 

[mudgudgeon]

710 cap 12170-65011. The rubber seal on the original for this engine was rock hard

Thermostat 90916-03117

O-ring for dipstick tube 95721-19010

Standard part. Nut for intake manifold studs, and other bits and pieces around the engine 90179-08040

Exhaust manifold studs 90116-10169 and nuts 90179-10037

Knock sensors (ouch) 89615-30050

Oil level sensor (double ouch!!) 89491-60010

5/8" heater hose clips 90467-21010
There's something strangely satisfying about pulling that red retaining clip off these once they are in place

 

[mudgudgeon]

Since you're in parts mode, let me share a tip I got from the machinist I used when doing a 3L rebuild. He said they always replace the oil coolers when they're doing a rebuild after a bearing failure, and they won't warranty any of their work unless this is done. The reason is the inside of the oil coolers is rough and holds material really easily. If you get metal flecks in there, it's almost impossible to get them all out by cleaning, and if they come out during operation after your rebuild, they can go straight into the new bearings and damage them. If you didn't do your oil cooler, might be worth considering.

Will keep that in mind, thanks mate

 

[FMC80]

Let me know if you’re missing anything. I bought doubles and triples of so many things I’ll just send you extra s*** for the cost of shipping.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Radiator hoses

ventilation hose on intake manifold

PCV hose

ECT temperature sensor for EFI 89422-35010

 

[mudgudgeon]

Let me know if you’re missing anything. I bought doubles and triples of so many things I’ll just send you extra s*** for the cost of shipping.

Do you hate money?





Generous offer, thanks