Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (3 Viewers)

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Hey guys I’m struggling with cruisermatts engine mounts. Engine is pushed more towards driver side and engine isn’t middle of the bay. Looks crooked. It’s 26 inches across the engine bay from frame rail to frame rail. And I’m an inch closer to driver side. And the mounts stick up higher because the top bolt on the mount hits the frame when it was tac’d in the first time. One motor mount Matt sells is shorter than the other. Assuming for one side and the other. Instead of 2 mount brackets that were equal and grind it down the he did on the one in his photos on his website. Any help would be appreciated.

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Hey guys I’m struggling with cruisermatts engine mounts. Engine is pushed more towards driver side and engine isn’t middle of the bay. Looks crooked. It’s 26 inches across the engine bay from frame rail to frame rail. And I’m an inch closer to driver side. And the mounts stick up higher because the top bolt on the mount hits the frame when it was tac’d in the first time. One motor mount Matt sells is shorter than the other. Assuming for one side and the other. Instead of 2 mount brackets that were equal and grind it down the he did on the one in his photos on his website. Any help would be appreciated.

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The driver side engine mount I had to raise because the center bolt wouldn’t go in or out of the mount once it’s in place so we raised the engine up but it just doesn’t look right compared to everyone that uses @cruisermatt mounts. I don’t think power steering is going to clear. Which I guess I can find or make a remote reservoir like the 1fz’s. Do these engines go in crooked?

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The driver side engine mount I had to raise because the center bolt wouldn’t go in or out of the mount once it’s in place so we raised the engine up but it just doesn’t look right compared to everyone that uses @cruisermatt mounts. I don’t think power steering is going to clear. Which I guess I can find or make a remote reservoir like the 1fz’s. Do these engines go in crooked?

which power steering pump do you have?
The regular truck pump, with 300-202 pulley works just fine.
 
which power steering pump do you have?
The regular truck pump, with 300-202 pulley works just fine.
I have the one we spoke about on the phone and told me to buy. You said I may have to bend the line.

Is the engjne and trans supposed to be crooked and off to one to one side?

Also how come when I weld the driver side mount down lower the center bolt for the gm mount contacts the frame and I can’t get it in or out?

Am I just missing something?
 
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Yes most I’ve seen even with Selkirk mounts, the engine is in at an angle. Not evenly perpendicular. Level but angling over to pax side. That’s mine understanding. I would just contact Matt.
 
I also still see your rear heater lines. I left mine in. I wish I hadn’t. Never use rear heat. Rather have them out for easy access and space.
I can still take them out and I plan on it. I called Matt we are emailing but hopefully just easier with a phone call. He’s a cool dude to talk to. Wealth of knowledge. Mine is angled towards driver side looking at it from the front. Trans is good using the Selkirk crossmember too. Just when I place the mounts lower and more centered on the frame rail, the top bolt on his mount will not go in or out. Once that mount is in, it’s in. If you wanna pull the motor you’re unbolting from the block. So I raised it up a bit and tac’d it. But it just doesn’t seem right compared to everyone else’s photos. I’m missing something and I don’t know what it is
 
Something is wrong for sure
You do a lot of these and I think you have used his mounts. Should engine be centered? Does the engine angle a little bit? and if that is how it is, why? Is there a reason why I can’t center it in the engine bay? used Selkirk crossmember which moves tcase to passenger side a tiny bit and pushes the whole drivetrain assembly forward an inch or 2. I just don’t understand why the driver side engine mount bolt hits the frame rail and it won’t be able to come out once I weld the mount bracket on. Unless I weld it not centered of the frame rail like I have it in the photo. I’m honestly stumped. Any input or help is appreciated. Very much.
 
Basically you want the passenger mount as low as possible while still being able to take that bolt in and out.
I have no idea what the Selkirk crossmember does, that might your issue
 
Basically you want the passenger mount as low as possible while still being able to take that bolt in and out.
I have no idea what the Selkirk crossmember does, that might your issue
I’m talking to you through email and here lol. I tried used the stock crossmember. Do you modify it when you do these with your mounts? If so, in what way?
The heads were in firewall. And it’s the driver side mount that’s having issues. I have to have the mount bracket half way off the plate to be able to get the bolt in and out easily. When I have it centered on the plate, before I tacked in place. The bolt head was resting against the frame preventing the bracket to sit against the plate for welding.
 
which power steering pump do you have?
The regular truck pump, with 300-202 pulley works just fine.
I was installing my L96/4l80e today and ran into the same issue with the pulley. What size serpentine belt do you use with it?

So far I've slotted the cross member about 1/2" to gain some firewall clearance. I'll need to use the SST 5lb hammer and box tube to clear the cylinder head and dipstick tube.
 
I was installing my L96/4l80e today and ran into the same issue with the pulley. What size serpentine belt do you use with it?

So far I've slotted the cross member about 1/2" to gain some firewall clearance. I'll need to use the SST 5lb hammer and box tube to clear the cylinder head and dipstick tube.
I have an lq4 and 4l80. I am using the Selkirk crossmember and it moves the engine forward at least 2 inches but it’s slotted so you can set where you want, I have it all the way forward. I have no issues with the firewall anymore. But I feel my drivetrain is crooked. At least it looks that way. I’m an inch off from center towards the driver side which I know is normal. Matt says I should be fine. But I think i Might have to do the remote resevoir for power steering. I was using a mock up block to help set it and figure it out. I will use my engine next weekend and see where i for sure line up with the power steering.

Are you using Matt’s mounts as well?

As for the belt. I’m using the stock belt for a 2001 Silverado 2500 with a 6.0, according to rock auto. 12637204 ACDelco part #.
 
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I was installing my L96/4l80e today and ran into the same issue with the pulley. What size serpentine belt do you use with it?

So far I've slotted the cross member about 1/2" to gain some firewall clearance. I'll need to use the SST 5lb hammer and box tube to clear the cylinder head and dipstick tube.

Whatever the belt that goes with that 300-202 pulley application - I think 08-2014ish Silverado/tahoe/yukon etc
 
Ya know the way a lot of this reads makes me think of something. With doing a job like this, some thing just won’t line up from vehicle to vehicle. If I can give some advice, I would get your major components mounted and clearances checked. From there start building out. You’re going to encounter many little issues you just tackle one at a time. So I’d take a step back. Get your drivetrain installed, exhaust on etc. Good luck.
 
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Dorman lists only v6 applications for the 303-202 pulley


You know what, you’re right, I’ve been using that pulley for long enough I forgot that it’s not just the regular 08-2014 pulley. :lol:
 
You know what, you’re right, I’ve been using that pulley for long enough I forgot that it’s not just the regular 08-2014 pulley. :lol:
From what I've ready, people are using button head bolts to clear the pulley and potentially having to space the pump to get the belt to align correctly.

If going this route, is the serpentine belt 2" smaller than the factory one? Or do you have a part number for the belt you use with that pulley.
 
From what I've ready, people are using button head bolts to clear the pulley and potentially having to space the pump to get the belt to align correctly.

If going this route, is the serpentine belt 2" smaller than the factory one? Or do you have a part number for the belt you use with that pulley.
I used the gm part # pulley but they gave me the alternate part number for the full disc pulley without the gaps. And the belt I listed worked fine for my engine set up.
 

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