Hey guys I’m struggling with cruisermatts engine mounts. Engine is pushed more towards driver side and engine isn’t middle of the bay. Looks crooked. It’s 26 inches across the engine bay from frame rail to frame rail. And I’m an inch closer to driver side. And the mounts stick up higher because the top bolt on the mount hits the frame when it was tac’d in the first time. One motor mount Matt sells is shorter than the other. Assuming for one side and the other. Instead of 2 mount brackets that were equal and grind it down the he did on the one in his photos on his website. Any help would be appreciated.
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (36 Viewers)
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The driver side engine mount I had to raise because the center bolt wouldn’t go in or out of the mount once it’s in place so we raised the engine up but it just doesn’t look right compared to everyone that uses @cruisermatt mounts. I don’t think power steering is going to clear. Which I guess I can find or make a remote reservoir like the 1fz’s. Do these engines go in crooked?
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- Jul 22, 2012
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which power steering pump do you have?
The regular truck pump, with 300-202 pulley works just fine.
I have the one we spoke about on the phone and told me to buy. You said I may have to bend the line.
Is the engjne and trans supposed to be crooked and off to one to one side?
Also how come when I weld the driver side mount down lower the center bolt for the gm mount contacts the frame and I can’t get it in or out?
Am I just missing something?
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Yes most I’ve seen even with Selkirk mounts, the engine is in at an angle. Not evenly perpendicular. Level but angling over to pax side. That’s mine understanding. I would just contact Matt.
If you look at your photo it’s centered up in the tunnel.
I also still see your rear heater lines. I left mine in. I wish I hadn’t. Never use rear heat. Rather have them out for easy access and space.
I can still take them out and I plan on it. I called Matt we are emailing but hopefully just easier with a phone call. He’s a cool dude to talk to. Wealth of knowledge. Mine is angled towards driver side looking at it from the front. Trans is good using the Selkirk crossmember too. Just when I place the mounts lower and more centered on the frame rail, the top bolt on his mount will not go in or out. Once that mount is in, it’s in. If you wanna pull the motor you’re unbolting from the block. So I raised it up a bit and tac’d it. But it just doesn’t seem right compared to everyone else’s photos. I’m missing something and I don’t know what it is
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Something is wrong for sure
You do a lot of these and I think you have used his mounts. Should engine be centered? Does the engine angle a little bit? and if that is how it is, why? Is there a reason why I can’t center it in the engine bay? used Selkirk crossmember which moves tcase to passenger side a tiny bit and pushes the whole drivetrain assembly forward an inch or 2. I just don’t understand why the driver side engine mount bolt hits the frame rail and it won’t be able to come out once I weld the mount bracket on. Unless I weld it not centered of the frame rail like I have it in the photo. I’m honestly stumped. Any input or help is appreciated. Very much.
- Joined
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- 583
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- 16,387
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Basically you want the passenger mount as low as possible while still being able to take that bolt in and out.
I have no idea what the Selkirk crossmember does, that might your issue
I have no idea what the Selkirk crossmember does, that might your issue
I’m talking to you through email and here lol. I tried used the stock crossmember. Do you modify it when you do these with your mounts? If so, in what way?
The heads were in firewall. And it’s the driver side mount that’s having issues. I have to have the mount bracket half way off the plate to be able to get the bolt in and out easily. When I have it centered on the plate, before I tacked in place. The bolt head was resting against the frame preventing the bracket to sit against the plate for welding.
