Holley says ideal is 6-8 inches after the merge from the collector.
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I managed to sneak mine under the Driveline, right at the u joint. I thought the joint would get hotter than it does, seems ok. I'll have to remove the y pipe to pull the trans pan but I'm ok with that. I added a catalyst after the merge and the thing blows 0s on the sniffer. Sounds great, only loud when you romp on it.. I mig welded it with 316 wire and stargas, welds look like s*** but are stainless and was much faster than tig lol.
Also I was trying to figure out the tachometer with an E38 situation. I broke down and bought a dakota digital- but figured I'd try one more thing and it worked! I got a tach without the DD SGI-100. I think HP tuners or EFI Live is required for this, but if you're buying an ECU your programmer should be able to do so...
Short drive video:
Short drive video:
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3 inches
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I guess I should have asked what he was running. 3 inches off the flange is what was recommended for my flowtech manifolds
Do you have any more info for this kid, like the correct bypass in the cluster and resister install? Thanks
I'm also interested in this. I've had a hell of a time with my tach. Seems that I've also stumped the awesome folks over at Dakota Digital. Using an SGI100BT, I can verify signal in, signal out, and I can send a test signal that works perfect. However, when I start the rig, nothing. Sometimes the tach jumps up to 1k at startup, but not always.
The resistor bypass is the last thing I haven't tried. Was really hoping to complete the swap without taking my dash bezel off.
The resistor bypass is the last thing I haven't tried. Was really hoping to complete the swap without taking my dash bezel off.
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I'm also interested in this. I've had a hell of a time with my tach. Seems that I've also stumped the awesome folks over at Dakota Digital. Using an SGI100BT, I can verify signal in, signal out, and I can send a test signal that works perfect. However, when I start the rig, nothing. Sometimes the tach jumps up to 1k at startup, but not always.
The resistor bypass is the last thing I haven't tried. Was really hoping to complete the swap without taking my dash bezel off.
Did you try using the high-voltage signal output instead of the regular one yet?
Yes, it's on the hi-volt output. I suppose one thing that I haven't tried is swapping to the low voltage, although it doesn't seem that anyone has had success that way.
The piece that stumped the Dakota Digital guys is that I can get the test signal to work every time. It's either settings, or something external in their opinion.
I've had the signal wire to the tach be bad on atleast two 95-97's. Worked fine with the 1FZ, but would not work with the signal I was feeding it. I replaced the wire and once it was disconnected from the tach I meggered it to ground and it failed.
I attribute the tach signal working from the 1FZ to 90's Toyota using a higher current capacity semiconductor than the modern stuff I was using.
The DD box is probably the same. It's current limited so it just can't push the pixies to fire the tach if the wire is degraded.
I attribute the tach signal working from the 1FZ to 90's Toyota using a higher current capacity semiconductor than the modern stuff I was using.
The DD box is probably the same. It's current limited so it just can't push the pixies to fire the tach if the wire is degraded.
Hey guys I'm just putting my ly6 back together ( new cam, bearings, lifters, trays etc etc)
Anyway point of post is my transmission!
I'm using a 4l70e which will require a 2wd output shaft, so are stock output shafts ok or do I need a heavy duty one? Secondly what transfer adapter are people using? Marks?
Thanks
Anyway point of post is my transmission!
I'm using a 4l70e which will require a 2wd output shaft, so are stock output shafts ok or do I need a heavy duty one? Secondly what transfer adapter are people using? Marks?
Thanks
Marks is where I got my adapter, but I used a 6l80e so don't know about 4l70e
It could be how your ECM is programmed. Mine was in serial. I had to change it to crank with HPTuners and then the hi and low and it worked.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Anyone switch to a M12x1.5 water temp sensor for the Toyota gauge? I looked at Bosch water temp sensors, although two wire, they appear to have a similar temperature rsistance curve.
I have the M12x1.5 to BSP adapter, but it puts the Toyota water temp sensor very close to a spark plug wire.
I have the M12x1.5 to BSP adapter, but it puts the Toyota water temp sensor very close to a spark plug wire.
@cruisermatt I sent you a PM about your mounts.
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This is what you need. In stock and ships today.
80 Series Water Temp Sender for LS / Vortec
Modified OEM 80 Series Water Temp Sender to fit GM LS / Vortec cylinder heads for conversions keeping original gauges. Recommended torque spec: 50 in-lb
cruisermatts.com
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
That's a good price tooThis is what you need. In stock and ships today.
80 Series Water Temp Sender for LS / Vortec
Modified OEM 80 Series Water Temp Sender to fit GM LS / Vortec cylinder heads for conversions keeping original gauges. Recommended torque spec: 50 in-lbcruisermatts.com
