Got the Long Range America tank installed
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I wanted to run that tank but it takes so much room I couldn't figure out how to route the exhaust.
Any more pics on this?
I'll take some more pictures tomorrow
Looking back, my previous posts were definitely premature. But I didn't want to wait on my shocks and other stuff to at least get started.
After installing my shocks, it turns out I'm not shock bound for my up travel, even though they are OME 3" lift.
I've got cruisermatts motor mounts which are modified slightly for my L8T.
I've got a little interference at the oil pan and the tie rod. And althought i contact the original rubber bump stops, I've still have a little up travel left in the shocks.
And I may see some interference with my pinion housing and the tie rod. I plan on installing some caster correction.
A little tight here too.
Simplest solution to both issues would be a bent tie rod, while another oil pan would solve the most pressing issue. But I'm not sure what available.
Any thoughts?
After installing my shocks, it turns out I'm not shock bound for my up travel, even though they are OME 3" lift.
I've got cruisermatts motor mounts which are modified slightly for my L8T.
I've got a little interference at the oil pan and the tie rod. And althought i contact the original rubber bump stops, I've still have a little up travel left in the shocks.
And I may see some interference with my pinion housing and the tie rod. I plan on installing some caster correction.
A little tight here too.
Simplest solution to both issues would be a bent tie rod, while another oil pan would solve the most pressing issue. But I'm not sure what available.
Any thoughts?
If you bottom out the suspension in real life the bump stops will squish more. So figure the bump stops will squish a good 1/2" more than what your seeing here.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Can you go higher up in tye engine bay?
Not really sure yet. Don't have a front clip yet.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
You want it up as much as you can but not have huge angle in drivetrain. I would get front clip and get a happy medium between all of it
high steer could potentially be an option.
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you shouldn't need to do anything to your tie rod, it physically can't hit the pinion.
no other oil pan options for that engine?
Or cut and weld an aluminum half-pipe into the pan?
no other oil pan options for that engine?
Or cut and weld an aluminum half-pipe into the pan?
Not sure of your variant. But pretty sure it’s common to go to one of the more sleek “muscle car” oil pans. I put a ac delco low profile 5qt pan on. No issues. I could send some photos if you’d like. On a 6.0. But not sure that matters.
that distance stays constant. 
To @cruisermatt and the folks using his mounts-
I've read here these mounts were specifically laid out for a 4l60, and that "it's easier" to use a 4l60.
What are the additional complications to be aware of if using Matt's mounts with a 4l80 or 6l80? I've read that those two are more work but struggling to concretely quantify how. I'm assuming they might require moving the cross member, additional lift, and/or driveshaft lengthening/shortening?
Trying to get all this figured out before I buy a wrecked truck at auction. Thanks!
I've read here these mounts were specifically laid out for a 4l60, and that "it's easier" to use a 4l60.
What are the additional complications to be aware of if using Matt's mounts with a 4l80 or 6l80? I've read that those two are more work but struggling to concretely quantify how. I'm assuming they might require moving the cross member, additional lift, and/or driveshaft lengthening/shortening?
Trying to get all this figured out before I buy a wrecked truck at auction. Thanks!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 485
- Messages
- 14,299
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
-4l60e: slam dunk, stock crossmember location, engine ends up close but not on the firewall, works great
-4l80e: will definitely require crossmember to move forwards approx. ~4-5" since it is several inches shorter transmission then 4l60.
-6l80/90e: should be straight forwards like 4l60e (6l80e is about 1" longer transmission body then 4l60e, I have them side by side here right now), and adapter looks very similar length, but haven't done the swap myself into an 80 so can't concretely speak towards it. I would think crossmember should be fine in stock spot and engine will be a little bit more forwards in engine bay, might cause clearance if running mechanical fan? Probably complete non-issue with elec. fan.
TYSM for confirming
My time in the garage is limited so those drivetrain mods would be like a 6 month detour 
Well, count me as another LS swap, dare I say complete!! Sitting on 35s (315-75-R16). Running great. I’ve got a bit of clean up to do. Wrap some wiring bundles. Secure them permanently etc. But in reality she’s done with the heavy lifting. Thanks to everyone who helped me along the way!!
As those who may be lurking, you can see I joined May '22. So it took me a little over a year. I really think someone could easily get it done in 6-9 months. But it depends on how much your doing, I went from stock to full build. If you truck is already lifted and outfitted and you just need a re-power, youre looking at 4-5 months, based on your engine selection. This is for a weekender, guy with a family and other responsibilities and moderate skill. Still a lot to go as far as outfitting and testing, but we are driving, and working to get registered.
Little walk around candy.
Can anyone point me in the right direction about adjusting the rod on the rear LSPV for rear brakes. When I put the lift on, I raised it up a bit, not sure if that is correct or what. Brakes feel real good, not sure if rears are doing anything or not. Anyone got any tips on testing to see if rear brakes are engaging or how to adjust the connecting link for rear brakes. I did it install it per Dobinsons instructions on the bracket.
