Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (15 Viewers)

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it is the actual PS pump res as well. I have Marks4wd everything. I didnt actually check for square, I just kinda assumed.
You have to check it. You can move things over one side or the other for clearance but you must make sure it's perpendicular. You also need to make sure the transfercase output angle is the same as before in relation to the pinion flange for correct driveshaft angle so you don't get vibration at speed.
 
You have to check it. You can move things over one side or the other for clearance but you must make sure it's perpendicular. You also need to make sure the transfercase output angle is the same as before in relation to the pinion flange for correct driveshaft angle so you don't get vibration at speed.
I couldn't move anything more than 1/4 inch in my case.
 
not super excited to spend 400 bucks on a CamaroPS pump and relocation bracket to flop my alt. and power steering pump locations. I have the marks 4wd motor mounts. Does anyone else have a solution for clearance? my PS is lightly touching steering box. I thought about spacing the steering box with some flat bar and longer bolts. then I have to mess with everything on down the line though
I remember that the Dirty Dingo engine mounts were biased towards the Australian driver's side. Are the Marks adapters built for 'Murica?
 
not super excited to spend 400 bucks on a CamaroPS pump and relocation bracket to flop my alt. and power steering pump locations. I have the marks 4wd motor mounts. Does anyone else have a solution for clearance? my PS is lightly touching steering box. I thought about spacing the steering box with some flat bar and longer bolts. then I have to mess with everything on down the line though
Wonder if this would shift the steering box over just enough?

-Rob
 
Makes me wonder if they're built for RHD trucks as the Dirty Dingo mounts are.

This guy built his own mounts 7 years ago to shift the engine over 3/4" to the passenger side.
They are built for rhd. The ps pump and exhaust were the 2 issues. Bought flow tech manifolds and mostly fixed exhaust issue
 
the ECU controls the motor only. has nothing to do with lockers at all
Interesting. I may have to go look at what I have left running from the ECU actually. I had not thought to pull it out. But honestly. Now that my dash is back together and as much stuff as I crammed where it is located. I may just leave it for now.
 
Today is the day! Engine tuning. I’m super nervous about the WOT section considering I haven’t driven more than a Quarter of a mile.

Oh and nice work @Delta VS the long radius arms giving a little rub. Now I have to buy your front bumper too. 😂😂.

427A45E0-1FDB-4156-86C0-3086277243C8.jpeg
 
Okay well No Dyno. Someone hasn’t done the 7pun mod. 🤌🏼. But finally it sounds good just running.
Oops. Could have unhooked the driveshaft though.
 
Hey @cruisermatt just saw a walk around an 80 I believe you helped to swap. Lauren from red dog overland. While filming the motor it showed a fuel filter that attached directly to th fuel rail. That seems like a great solution. What I came up with is being a pain. What fuel filter is it? I’ve been scrolling through Amazon and haven’t found it yet. Thanks.
 
Hey @cruisermatt just saw a walk around an 80 I believe you helped to swap. Lauren from red dog overland. While filming the motor it showed a fuel filter that attached directly to th fuel rail. That seems like a great solution. What I came up with is being a pain. What fuel filter is it? I’ve been scrolling through Amazon and haven’t found it yet. Thanks.

I would have to dig it up but it was a GM filter that had the same male and female quick connect as the rail. Keep in mind that 80 has the early rails with the built-in regulator so the filter is still pre-regulator. I wouldn't do this on the later return-less rails since out wouldn't be filtering before the regulator, if that makes sense. And yes it has worked out well for 1.5 year / 25k mile so far.
 

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