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From the gm harness and the toyo harness? Or cut the toyo alt wiring?
This wire sends the signal to crank the starter right?
Black / pink or red stripe
Black / pink or red stripe
I added it to the GM connection. It feeds the Toyota stuff too
I ran the GM stuff into the cab and connected it under the dash off the ignition circuit
What is everyone running for an engine oil cooler? Are you guys finding it necessary?
I’m not. Most of the swaps in Australia don’t seem to have them either. That’s why I didn’t run one. Did run a new power steering cooler and used both trans coolers.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
No need.
4L60E / Marks4wd Adapter people:
What did you do about the high/low shift lever?
I could imagine drilling/modifying the adapter bracket from Marks4wd to work with the later-style high/low lever.
I've also heard that the earlier-style high/low lever is what the Marks4wd adapter was designed for. Can anyone confirm this on their builds?
What did you do about the high/low shift lever?
I could imagine drilling/modifying the adapter bracket from Marks4wd to work with the later-style high/low lever.
I've also heard that the earlier-style high/low lever is what the Marks4wd adapter was designed for. Can anyone confirm this on their builds?
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Make you own plate to mount the layer style is what you’ll have to do. Easy peasy.
91/92 guys, where are you getting 12v cranking from?
First, hopefully only, test fit.
So far I've found out:
1. I need to change my P/S reservoir to a lower profile one
2. Fuel vapor purge valve needs to be relocated or deleted to clear the hood
3. A/C compressor does not clear the passenger side frame horn (thanks for the heads up Joshua Cole)
4. The front driveshaft looks awfully close to the 4l60e transmission oil pan. May have to do some hammering.
My plan is to get the wiring and plumbing sorted out enough to start the engine and confirm it runs well. Then pull the engine/trans/t-case out to cut and weld the passenger frame rail, install some heat insulation, modify high/low shifter bracket...etc.
So far I've found out:
1. I need to change my P/S reservoir to a lower profile one
2. Fuel vapor purge valve needs to be relocated or deleted to clear the hood
3. A/C compressor does not clear the passenger side frame horn (thanks for the heads up Joshua Cole)
4. The front driveshaft looks awfully close to the 4l60e transmission oil pan. May have to do some hammering.
My plan is to get the wiring and plumbing sorted out enough to start the engine and confirm it runs well. Then pull the engine/trans/t-case out to cut and weld the passenger frame rail, install some heat insulation, modify high/low shifter bracket...etc.
I cut out about a 1/2” of the bottom of the transmissions pan on that side. Then tapped it in and welded. Used JB weld for a couple pin holes and she’s got plenty of room now.
Check with a meter, but I believe it’s the black w/white stripe
use older style power steering pump and move the engine to driver side and your a/c will fit without any cutting
for oil pan , just use shallow oil pan and no cutting necessary
And get the correct filter with the shallow pan. This is why i modified mine, lol. Didn’t get the filter and wanted it done.
The only cutting should be of the motor mount. No frame cutting needed. My motor mount on the passenger side and 2 mounting holes. I took out 2-3” out of the front to back width and put the front piece back on.
Couple of questions:
Can you share where you sourced your intake pipe and couplers?
Did you crimp your own A/C and P/S lines? They look great.
