Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (10 Viewers)

[steve604]

to get your brake interrupt you have 2 spots you steal from! You can tap at either the brake switch or the cruise control module, connectors c4 and s18, steal the green and orange wire, tested my output today and worked as I needed , im so close to firing I can smell the fuel already, oh wait thats the fuel I drained out of the fuel tank today.........

Also send me your email @steve604 Ill send you a link to my google sheets with the pinout for my 97, cant guarantee its perfect but so far all is good on my side, I did a test of my electronics today and everything turned on as it should. I can tell you though even with a pinout sheet you'll still want/need to go through the EWD's as there a few ways to skin a cat as said above

Thanks bulhas and squad1, that's actually really helpful. My email address is fordblueblood@shaw.ca

I am converting a '97 LX450 BTW

 

[steve604]

What's the general consensus on the charcoal canister? Is it safe to get rid of it? I was thinking about getting rid of it and extending that vent line to the air box...

 

[bloc]

I wouldn't want fuel vapors going through my MAF sensor, personally. Also the potential for vacuum on the fuel tank depending on where you tap into the airbox..

If your chosen engine has the provisions for simple evap control I'd just use it. For those of us with more complex systems (genIV has a fuel tank pressure sensor and applies vacuum to the tank to check for leaks.. I don't know if our metal tanks will tolerate this, nor whether we can get a gas cap that will work) venting to atmosphere is looking easiest. I truly wish I could just run a CC and purge line to the valve, but my swap won't allow it.

 

[steve604]

Mine has the purge valve but I've been reading that it gets complicated with having to give the ECU a fuel level signal. Mine is an '03 LQ4, is this an issue for me?

 

[steve604]

How did the 1fz control vacuum to the canister? Was it constant? Regulated?intermittent depending on conditions?

 

[bloc]

Mine has the purge valve but I've been reading that it gets complicated with having to give the ECU a fuel level signal. Mine is an '03 LQ4, is this an issue for me?

I'm not familiar with LQ4s and what they require, sorry. I do seem to remember things being a lot less complicated when you don't have the fuel tank pressure sensor though.

How did the 1fz control vacuum to the canister? Was it constant? Regulated?intermittent depending on conditions?

Intermittent depending on conditions best describes it.

If you dig into the FSM it gives detailed operational instructions.. but basically the tank has an extremely light pressure relief valve that allows vapors to vent into the charcoal canister, where they are scrubbed, then air goes OUT to atmosphere via the vent at the bottom. Do this too long and the CC will become saturated though. So when the engine is running and IIRC above 3kRPMs the ECM opens a purge valve to the intake manifold. This applies manifold vacuum to a different port on the CC, pulling air IN through the vent on the bottom, carrying fuel vapors off the charcoal grains, and into the intake manifold.

 

[steve604]

I got the ECU tuned today and he said that the vacuum purge doesn't need any external sensors. It just comes on based on what the engine is doing so he left that in there but turned off the MIL for the evap system.

 

[Squad1]

Finally ,I got My 96 LX450 / 5.3L Gen IV through CT emissions today. After a long battle with various tuners in my area and no success ,I decided to buy HP Tuners and learn how to do it myself reports the Lexus has been running lf. Best investment i've made for my tuning issues so far. Thanks Bloc for all the help and support. My wife says the truck is running great. Now I can work on fine tuning all the small details like the evap, tap shift and get the wide band set up.

 

[steve604]

If I tap into the toyota fuel pump relay wiring using the chevy green/white, that should work right? anything else I need to bypass?

 

[bulhas]

i bypassed the relay all together and went straight from the GM harness to a fuel pump realy to the pump, youll need to look at I believe its "Lazy's" build thread (might be squad1 though) who has a document on how to reuse the factory fuel pump relay

 

[bloc]

If I tap into the toyota fuel pump relay wiring using the chevy green/white, that should work right? anything else I need to bypass?

No. The toyota and GM systems require different polarity on the fuel pump relay control circuits. Also the toyota relay is hard to reconfigure because it gets the +12v for relay control from the circuit that actually powers the fuel pump, Gnd is switched by the ECM. This is opposite of GM.

 

[steve604]

So I can switch that relay out with a 40 amp bosch relay with coil + from GM ECU , regular ground but reuse the same main power and pump switch leg wires? Is there anything interrupting power to the relay? I am currently looking through the factory wiring diagrams and it looks like the power is just constant to the relay.

 

[bloc]

The circuit opening relay actually acts more like a traditional fuel pump relay in toyotas. The actual "fuel pump relay" is just for switching the voltage mode.. one side goes through a step-down resistor to lower voltage at low fuel flow conditions.

One option is to repin the "fuel pump relay" so that its constant mode (non-activated) is the full-voltage side, and switch polarity for the Circuit Opening Relay control wires. This keeps the factory relays (more reliable than most aftermarket) in place and allows for the GM system to control them. This is what I planned to do until I went way off the map and added a fuel pump relay to the stock toyota fuse block.

 

[steve604]

where is the circuit opening relay located? I think I'll have it figured out if I can find the trigger wire for that relay behind the glove box. It's likely located in the 22 pin connector that went to the PCM. Does anyone have the pinouts for that connector? What is it called in the FSM?

 

[bloc]

That can vary a lot based on year model, whether it's a Landcruiser or LX450, not to mention being a canadian rig vs most of us being familiar with US ones.

You need to get the correct wiring diagrams and get very comfortable with reading them. I'm not even sure how someone would feel ok starting a swap like this without already having invested the time to do so..

 

[steve604]

Lol. I've done a couple engine swaps before. I just dive in and engineer it as i go. I've got it all figured out aside from the fuel pump trigger.

 

[DieselDriver]

Easiest Way I have seen....
Depending on how you build or buy your stand alone harness. You will need to fuse some components and add relay's for other components.
You could use a pre made fuse/relay box and run your fuel pump from there. This will completely bypass the Toyota wiring and use your stand alone harness as intended. "Stand Alone"

This is what I used, basic and they others if you want more options
Bare Essentials LS Swap DIY Stand Alone Factory Harness Mod Kit

 

[Squad1]

If I tap into the toyota fuel pump relay wiring using the chevy green/white, that should work right? anything else I need to bypass?

I wired mine this way
my new harness came with a fuel pump relay and fuse so I looked at the wiring diagram and found where I could connect to the fuel pump power after all the factory relays and such. This lead me to the factory fuel pump resistor, which is the last thing before the wire heads to the rear and the fuel pump. I removed the factory fuel pump resistor( this is located on right inner fender where power antenna is)
I cut off the plug and verified I had the correct wire by putting power to it. All the other wire can be removed including the resistor. I crimped a single weather pack connector to the fuel pump wire and a matching one to the fuel pump wire provided in my harness and now i have a convenient disconnect point in my fuel pump circuit for testing or whatever. My connector is located right near where the factory fuel pump resistor was and where I mounted my fuse box and ecm. Has worked great for me the past year

 

[steve604]

The circuit opening relay is located behind the driverside kick panel and is triggered with a negative on a red/white from the ECU with a constant ign + on a blue/black. The main power to the relay is a #10 yellow that is turned on by the main EFI relay under the hood and feeds back through the engine harness on the big yellow/red. That relay is turned on by the ECU with a red wire to the underhood fuse box.

I got the fuel pump running with all the toyota wiring and relays by connecting the blue/black to the red to turn on the main EFI relay, bypassing the resistor, bypassing the driver's side fender relay and then grounding the red/white at the ECU harness all while the ignition is on.

I'm thinking about using the EFI main relay for the GM ECU pink wires and using the driver's side kick panel fuel relay for the pump. I'll change it around so + from the GM ECU switches that relay. I was also thinking about powering the GM ECU pinks off of the black/red coil wire under the hood which is just switched on at the ignition switch and looks to be fused for 20 amps. If I do this, I shouldn't need any additional fuses/relays under the hood.

 

[steve604]

I'll just need to find a source for the GM ECU keep alive orange wiring which I might just fuse tap off the underhood fuse block.