Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (12 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I'm throwing up a link to a quick video I just posted on You tube. I attempted to show the clearance I have with my '96 5.3L. I had the front springs out to install the bump stop spacers and fix my passenger side exhaust pipe that hit the top of the diff. I discovered that the bump does not land squarely on the pad and am going to cut the welds and remove the round pad/ spring cup. I will the cut a wedge out of probably a piece of 4 1/2" round tubing and weld it back in to correct the angle difference. The idea being to not add any or as little ride height as I can.
A bunch of folks were asking about how everything packages in there and can honestly say that I am am very pleased with the overall fit of the engine with the f-body pan and truck intake. Let me know what you think

 
Does anyone here have an HPTuners license? And can help me by checking the repository for a specific tune?

I can't get into the repository to dig around until I've paid for VCM Suite, but I don't want to pay for it if it doesn't have the tune I need!

Thanks for any help
 
I'll have to get on the hp tuners site and forum and dig around
An update to the video I posted. I cut the 2 welds and removed my lower spring pads. I then took a piece of 4" , 1/4" wall tubing and cut a slice at a 3 degree angle on the band saw. That left me with a wedge that tilted the spring seat/bump stop pad to match the bumpstop. At ride height the spring sits flat on the seat too. Total time took about 2 hours and left me a little more room for the front passenger exhaust pipe.

IMG_4913.JPG


IMG_4914.JPG
 


Is it possible to get a close-up shot of the fan/fan clutch/shroud setup? also I'm curious what water pump and fan clutch/fan was used.. I like that they stayed mechanical.


I have about 7 inches from the front of the water pump pulley to the radiator and starting to consider what my options are. The smallest mechanical fan I can find so far is 19" and my radiator core measures just under 17" tall.. meaning I may need to get tricky with the shroud. I seem to remember someone running a universal summit shroud but need to see if I have notes on who that was.
 
Pretty sure it was @rockrod .

He went electric initially then switched. I have the same shroud he bought. You will end up making the fan opening larger than the rad core height.
 
Perfect.

I'll be copying that soon.

Edit: thanks!
 
Last edited:
Is it possible to get a close-up shot of the fan/fan clutch/shroud setup? also I'm curious what water pump and fan clutch/fan was used.. I like that they stayed mechanical.


I have about 7 inches from the front of the water pump pulley to the radiator and starting to consider what my options are. The smallest mechanical fan I can find so far is 19" and my radiator core measures just under 17" tall.. meaning I may need to get tricky with the shroud. I seem to remember someone running a universal summit shroud but need to see if I have notes on who that was.

Yes no problem. I am on the road and will get some more detailed pictures and any measurements you need when I get home. I am running the Marks (overpriced) water pump that has been modified with a longer shaft to accommodate the mechanical fan which is also a Marks part. We also modified (extended) the the thermostat housing to fit a factory rad house. I am running the corvette harmonic that comes with the LS3. The mechanical fan does great towing and at speed but I do have to add a small 12" electric pusher fan in front of the ac condenser for the idle and slow speed stuff. I am seeing higher temps than I like under these conditions right now. If I hold 1,000 rpm the temps drop down to 197 degrees within seconds. My motor idles around 570 rpm. The 12" brushless e fan I bought is super efficient and totally sealed. I am going to run it from the factory harness at the fuse block and control it through HP tuners. Hope this helps



I believe these are the parts from Marks that I am running.

Engine driven fan kit - LS series V8 engines


Here is the electric fan i am getting ready to install in front of the condenser.

Be Cool Radiators 75531: Plus Series Brushless Fan | JEGS
IMG_4772_2.jpg
IMG_4959.JPG
IMG_4500.jpg
IMG_4957.JPG


IMG_4959.JPG
 
That helps a lot. I hadn't looked into it and didn't realize marks had that solution. Sorry if you had posted those photos already.. they are good enough for what I need.

Seems like it is just a standard Toyota viscous clutch.. maybe it can be worked over like the regular blue hubs?
 
That helps a lot. I hadn't looked into it and didn't realize marks had that solution. Sorry if you had posted those photos already.. they are good enough for what I need.

Seems like it is just a standard Toyota viscous clutch.. maybe it can be worked over like the regular blue hubs?

I don't see anything special about the clutch. The shaft is definitely the part they are charging for. I have not done a ton of searching and it would be nice to find a company more local that sells a similar set up. Problem is that there are only a handful of people running a corvette harmonic with mechanical fan in the country. I like the reliability of the mech fan over electric and when towing the e fans just won't provide enough cfm. I do like the the idea of having the small 12" e fan kick on when needed.
 
Bloc,

You are running the Corvette harmonic balancer?

No, all truck accessories and pullies up front for me. I'm planning on running a GM van viscous clutch and 19" fan. I just got my intake installed but need to get off work and pick up a parts store fan clutch (easily returnable) to make sure the blades will clear the intake elbow before I commit to everything else.

I share your desire for a small condenser fan.. will probably get installed when I set up the fuse blocks and relays for my accessory power.
 
I'm reading that HPTuners allows you to modify an alternator table without needing the BCM or 4-wire conversion.

I'll have to get on the hp tuners site and forum and dig around

Finally had time for a little digging. Appears things aren't so straightforward. Explanation of E38 ECM and Alternator Voltage Control/ECM Override Settings Requested

Converting to a 4-wire setup would be much more mainstream and sure-fire. Only problem would be replacing the alternator in the middle of nowhere if needed..
 
Finally had time for a little digging. Appears things aren't so straightforward. Explanation of E38 ECM and Alternator Voltage Control/ECM Override Settings Requested

Converting to a 4-wire setup would be much more mainstream and sure-fire. Only problem would be replacing the alternator in the middle of nowhere if needed..
To make parts easier to replace ,I may just swap in a GENIII alt and not bother messing with the regulator at all. The auto electric shop I use may even just trade me. I'll see this week
 
Pretty sure it was @rockrod .

He went electric initially then switched. I have the same shroud he bought. You will end up making the fan opening larger than the rad core height.

you don't happen to have the summit part number do you? Im looking at SUM-380373-SH which measures 16x26.25 but my core is a bit larger and want to see if my guessing is what everyone else is doing.

Also, is it possible to get a measurement on the depth of the shroud and the fan guard separately? Summit lists 2.625 for the shroud but I'm guessing the round guard is in addition to this. I just got a chevy express fan blade and it clears everything and has a blade profile I like more, but it is on the shallow side and I want to see if this shroud will work with it.


Thanks
 
Last edited:
I thought about using the OG/BK wire to trigger a relay to work as a neutral safety switch but decided against it partly because It fed a signal to the ecm and I didn't want to interfere with whatever the ecm was using it for. The other reason was that there did not appear to be a reverse signal coming out of the trans plug and I was going to have to add a switch for that anyway, so I doubled them up. I do like your idea of using that P/N signal wire if it works. I thought about adding a reverse signal wire to the trans plug and run it all the way up to a reverse light relay in my fuse box. My trans shop advised against tearing into the trans harness to do that how ever. I'll see how hard it would be if and when I have the trans pan down

Another bit of data.. PSI's harnesses have a park/neutral wire that gets ground in those conditions. It is Orange. I'll bet they did what I did and spliced a wire into the one from the transmission to the ECM. Maybe installed a diode or something to prevent false signals to ECM but I think the foundation is the same.

https://www.psiconversion.com/instructions/MAN-1086_LS2-LS3_Harness_Instructions.pdf
 
anyone run a diesel adapters air box for a better filter than the factory circle?? If not well stay tuned Ill be doing it! I bit the bullet today and talked to Dustin, he was very intrigued to see one go on the LS and get results!!!

I am pumped to ditch this giant piece of metal.....

DsFrontengine.jpg


PSengine.jpg
 
I always thought the stock filter was actually really good. Centrifugal action built in, water drain, pulls from the fender.. my only concern was whether it would keep up with my engine that has double the stock amount of power but for me the benefits outweigh the drawbacks
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom