Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (30 Viewers)

[FJ60Cam]

If the 1FZ Toyota oil pressure sender is 1/8" BSP like the 2F, Jags That Run sells an adapter to run both senders...

Toyota V8 Conversion Parts for FJ40 LX V8, Oil Pressure Sending Unit Adaptor, Stealth Conversions

 

[bloc]

That is a great solution.. especially with the compression fitting allowing you to keep the Toyota sender away from the manifold, independent of the GM sender thread indexing.

 

[FJ60Cam]

I just so happen to have one (minus the lower crush washer) that I didn't end up using, if somebody needs it. Holla at me.

 

[Squad1]

No, I want to drill a hole in the rear-facing side of the post that rises up on the lifter valley cover for the GM sensor. Stock sensor could then be screwed in on top as normal.

My thinking is that the wires are already there, the ECM is looking for the sensor, I've seen reports of low oil pressure shutting off fuel pump (which I personally want). As to the disabling aspect.. I never travel without some dignoatic capability, and if things operate as some in this thread describe I could just unplug the sensor if it malfunctions and the truck should run.


Anyone else heard of the fast-idle feature on vortec trucks?

electrically that would not make sense. If the ecm needed that signal for something then if there was a fault and unplugging it would allow the engine to rune, what would be the sense in having it there in the first place?

 

[Squad1]

No, I want to drill a hole in the rear-facing side of the post that rises up on the lifter valley cover for the GM sensor. Stock sensor could then be screwed in on top as normal.

My thinking is that the wires are already there, the ECM is looking for the sensor, I've seen reports of low oil pressure shutting off fuel pump (which I personally want). As to the disabling aspect.. I never travel without some dignoatic capability, and if things operate as some in this thread describe I could just unplug the sensor if it malfunctions and the truck should run.


Anyone else heard of the fast-idle feature on vortec trucks?

another option would be to put the toyota sensor into the port above the oil filter on the drivers side. If you are not using it for factory type oil cooler lines. it can easilt be drilled and tapped for pipe thread. there is actually a boss there for that.

 

[I Lean]

@bloc would moving your front axle forward an inch or so make enough room for you to use your LS3 oil pan? Something similar to what @AutoCraft Aus shows in this pic:

I know @bryson has moved his similarly as well.

 

[bloc]

If it does get a signal and that signal shows low oil pressure for an extended period.. shut the engine down? No signal doesn't necessarily mean low/no pressure.

Just guessing.

I won't be using the GM fuel pump flow control module, so if that is needed for this whole scheme it won't work out. Plus, I don't know if it's worth buying a blank plug or second sensor to test the system shutting off the fuel if the oil pressure is low. kindof irrelevant.

I've seen enough reports online to convince me it is a real thing, and I want to keep it in place.. in large part because it's already there. Adding the toyota sensor for the gauge cluster is as simple as drilling a hole and tapping threads.. or buying one of those adapters.

another option would be to put the toyota sensor into the port above the oil filter on the drivers side. If you are not using it for factory type oil cooler lines. it can easilt be drilled and tapped for pipe thread. there is actually a boss there for that.

I will be using oil cooler lines, and personally wanted to keep the oil pressure gauge sender away from the exhaust manifolds. If I'm going to drill/tap anything the post for the stock GM sender seems ideal. Lots of room, no radiant heat issues, where GM felt comfortable taking an oil pressure reading from..



Speaking of oil pressure.. I noticed F-body pans don't have an auxiliary oil pressure control valve that my truck pan and the LS3 pan had.

Apparently there are a couple different oil pumps on genIV engines, and ones having DOD/AFM and/or VVT had the higher volume pump. This can make too much pressure when starting cold, so these engines have a second relief valve built into the oil filter area of the pan.

I've seen a couple reports of people drilling/tapping the F-body pan for the valve.. it is 14/1.5 metric thread. Will do that when I get my pan and report back.

@bloc would moving your front axle forward an inch or so make enough room for you to use your LS3 oil pan? Something similar to what @AutoCraft Aus shows in this pic:

I know @bryson has moved his similarly as well.

Yeah, I think it would, as long as the engine was placed with the transmission/transfer case in the stock location as I'm doing. If you reduce firewall hammering and move the setup forward an inch as Marks recommends it probably would end up just like mine in the pictures.

Moving the axle would also make the bump stops work better after caster correction that tilts the axle back.

I didn't consider doing this before you brought it up.. might be worth going ahead and doing it then checking that LS3 pan again.

One potential concern.. I need to see if the sump on the truck pan is any wider than the LS3.

I used the truck pan to set up final mount placement, and it basically touched the driver side of the front drive flange when everything was in place. It did seem like there was a little metal ribbing that could be cut off to gain clearance.. but if the LS3 pan is as wide or close, even if you clear the axle it may come too close to the drive flange. I'll take some measurements.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I just so happen to have one (minus the lower crush washer) that I didn't end up using, if somebody needs it. Holla at me.

View attachment 1404599

You're going to use that when you do mine. Hang on to it.

 

[bloc]

@bloc would moving your front axle forward an inch or so make enough room for you to use your LS3 oil pan? Something similar to what @AutoCraft Aus shows in this pic:

I know @bryson has moved his similarly as well.

Did a bit of digging.. that pic was only 12mm movement, which autocraft aus says is perfect for 37s. Much more and they run the front of the tire into the bumper/core support frame mounts. That wouldn't be enough room for me to be comfortable with the pan clearance, personally.

So I still think the LS3 pan isn't a good option unless you have a lot of lift and large bump spacers.

 

[I Lean]

Did a bit of digging.. that pic was only 12mm movement, which autocraft aus says is perfect for 37s. Much more and they run the front of the tire into the bumper/core support frame mounts. That wouldn't be enough room for me to be comfortable with the pan clearance, personally.

So I still think the LS3 pan isn't a good option unless you have a lot of lift and large bump spacers.

I just checked my drawing files for the plate I cut for @bryson and couldn't find it. Must have gotten lost when my laptop died...but I'm fairly sure he moved his 1". I don't know if his tires rub or not...

 

[bloc]

This thread is dedicated to the topic: Shift front axle forward?

Seems like 1" would be a lot, especially with my lift and tires. Plus I think it'd push things too far to keep the bump stops lined up. And even then, I don't know how much the axle would move from bushing compliance on a hard hit

I'll just go with the f-body pan, synthetic, oil cooler, and do a UOA or two to dial in my oil change interval.

 

[Squad1]

electrically that would not make sense. If the ecm needed that signal for something then if there was a fault and unplugging it would allow the engine to rune, what would be the sense in having it there in the first place?

should be easy enough to test. Find a late model truck and unplug the oil pressure switch and see what happens. I checked the alldata that I have for my 2013 Avalanche engine and all it shows is the oil pressure switch sening back a voltage signal to the ecm. In my experience and talking to the programming people ( speartech, painless, pacific fab) the oil pressure switch or lack of has nothing to the engine running.
It would be interesting to see what happens on a factory stock vehicle. I will see if anyone here at work today has one I can test

 

[bloc]

I'm not explaining it well enough.

For a 3-wire sensor open circuit (unhooked) and low/no pressure are not the same signal. To emulate low/no pressure you'd need another sensor hooked up to the harness or to unscrew the stock one and install a plug in it's place then run the engine.

 

[DieselDriver]

I guess this is all based on gen of LS engine or even older models, what oil pressure switch you have 3 wire ect

 

[Squad1]

I'm not explaining it well enough.

For a 3-wire sensor open circuit (unhooked) and low/no pressure are not the same signal. To emulate low/no pressure you'd need another sensor hooked up to the harness or to unscrew the stock one and install a plug in it's place then run the engine.[/QUOTE

Now your talking
All I can tell you about the new LS engines is that the ecm doesn't care if it has pressure or not. I suppose you could find a sender that acts like a switch and closes at a preset pressure. The oe sender is a 3 wire and sends a variable voltage to the ecm. The ecm compares that voltage to a look up table and moves the needle on the gauge accordingly.
An application from an older or base model may have a light instead of a gauge . If that were the case you could use that 2 wire sensor to control a relay for your fuel pump.

here is a picture from the 2013 Avalanche. Its all I had readily available

 

[bloc]

08 full-size truck

Again.. reading reports of trucks with oil pressure issues shutting down the fuel pump online. I do remember one L92 (what I have), but beyond that I don't remember exactly which engines except that I have been looking for GenIV info specifically.


"I suppose you could find a sender that acts like a switch and closes at a preset pressure."
That is more complicated than it sounds, as you'd need some kind of timer built in so that it allows the pump to run while cranking and at first engine start while oil pressure hasn't yet built up.

But.. all of this is beside the point.

IF that system is in place, I'd like to keep it. And literally the only extra work required to keep it and still have a working toyota gauge is drill/tap my sender post (already have the correct tools) vs buy and screw in an adapter for the toyota sender only.

IF the system will shut down fuel pressure on low oil pressure, something which I'm reading has happened on other GenIV engines.. GREAT. But I won't count on it. I still want a gauge. If it doesn't shut it down on low oil pressure? Hopefully my pressure never gets low, and if it does, hopefully I notice.


Anyway.. I decided against an F-body pan and ordered a H3 pan. The sump is shaped more like a truck pan, with a slightly deeper, rear-biased sump, and the pickup at the back, instead of middle/front like f-body. Drain plug is on the driver's side, unlike the truck pan. Also the passenger side is narrowed toward the bottom which should increase clearance between the pan and front diff drive flange.

But, a big reason I went this way is it has a boss where the secondary oil pressure relief valve goes. Should make drilling/tapping for that valve more straightforward. Not a big deal for people that don't need the secondary relief valve, though I think the oil pickup position is a good reason too.

H3 pan:

Pic of the round boss to be drilled/tapped. Small round circle to the right of the oil passages to/from the filter on bottom left of each pan.

The full H3 pan kit with pickup, windage tray, dipstick and tube, and pan hardware is Part number 19212593 and about $200 from the usual sources

Edit: the H3 pan didn't work. Sitting on 1.5" bump stop spacers the tie rod hit the bottom of the pan slightly.

 

[DieselDriver]

You don't need a timer or anything extra, it's all a function of the ecm!
Read pin 9

 

[bloc]

You still would need a timer or some other logic. Otherwise an oil pressure controlled fuel pump interrupt circuit still wouldnt let the ECM signal through to the fuel pump before starting because there's no oil pressure, or it wouldn't be able to shut off fuel pump signal when oil pressure drops later.

Either way, I feel like we are beating a dead horse and I would be better served figuring out definitively if a genIV can shut off from low oil pressure or that I'm misunderstanding what I find online. Don't really have time to research it now.. will look into it and post what I find.

 

[DieselDriver]

Pin # 9.... Key on fuel pump runs 2/5 seconds
Crank/running the the fuel pump is running until engine stops or key off.
Since TPI,Throttle body, Vortec, LS the basic design of the circuit has not changed!
No dead horses here, the info is out there....

 

[bloc]

so what are you saying? That the timer circuit I mentioned for oil pressure interrupt isn't needed? Or that the ECM will not shut off fuel for low oil pressure? In my previous post I assumed the former.