- Thread starter
- #81
Huzzah! They're sure proud of those.
That's two pieces of scrap steel and 5 minutes of drilling/trimming.
Shift front axle forward?
- Thread starter Ebag333
- Start date
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Huzzah! They're sure proud of those.
That's two pieces of scrap steel and 5 minutes of drilling/trimming.
Those guys are on crack for $190 for those
but it comes with the bolts!! Well worth it with the bolts! I bet Dan at Ruffstuff could put these out for about $20.
So 12mm forward is just to recenter axle in well.......is that in conjunction with caster bushings or lt plates?
They're not that bad, and the front of my arms are higher than any other castor correction out there.
Asside from that - it won't fix your problem. They drop the mount straight down they don't move it forward. If anything they make it worse cause the arms are level so when they move up the axle moves back (like stock) rather than moving forward.
I don't have any rubbing issues with them and 37's though
They're not that bad, and the front of my arms are higher than any other castor correction out there.
Asside from that - it won't fix your problem. They drop the mount straight down they don't move it forward. If anything they make it worse cause the arms are level so when they move up the axle moves back (like stock) rather than moving forward.
I don't have any rubbing issues with them and 37's though
What the backspacing on your wheels? Ebag is running re-centered hummer wheels with 3.5" I believe. Just trying to think of reasons why you don't rub and Ebag rubs. I realize every truck is a little different, but it would be nice to come up with an exact reason for the rub. Have you modified your bump stops any?
Dropping the mount down does move the axle forward because the arm is no longer operating at an angle. Lifting shortens the wheelbase as it pulls the arms off the horizontal plane. You can use the a(squared) + b(squared) = c(squared) formula to calculate how much longer the link (c) needs to be to retain original wheelbase.
If you have a 5" lift with a 30" arm, the effect is about 10mm of shortening. Which we might note is awfully close to the recommended 12mm extension.
I've wheeled with them extensively for more than 5 years - they've never been a problem.
I know for me they would not work well for east coast wheeln
My stock mounts are pretty beat up
- Thread starter
- #90
I've tagged my stock mounts more than once, and I don't even wheel all that hard.
Well, my truck is no street queen and there are plenty of photos around here with it climbing over all kinds of stuff.
Yes, at ride height my axle is further forward than a non-drop bracketed truck. But if you have an arm that is sitting 15 deg. down, and flexing it brings it up to horizontal it moves forward. If the arm is at 0 (and not really the arm, the imaginary line from piviot through the axle center) and then flexing it moved it to 15 deg above horizontal, it's moving backwards.
I have seen your truck in action on here many times
definitely no street queen
The terrain here is just totaly different I know that those things would get hung up for me
Hey man if they work for you that is great
4.75" BS. When I run my 1.25" spacers (3.5" effective BS), it'll just barely touch the inner fender well, just like what he's experiencing. Took the spacers off to do a front end repair, havent' put them back on and it doesn't touch anymore.
1-3/8" drop on the bump stops - (spring mount spacer moves both)
1" Body lift
No adjustable pan-hard - which when I put one on the back and evened out the stuffed possition of the axle that cleaned up some rubbing back there.
Of course I'm not running flares anymore - and I do have one little clearance mod of cutting the opening back 1.25" or was it 1.5" - something like that.
- Thread starter
- #95
Do you rub evenly on both sides, or more on one side than the other?
Gee Rick, thanks for being so helpful here.
First, even IF I pulled the pin, adjusting your plates would help with that. But if you bothered to read, I did NOT pull the pin. As a matter of fact, I'm going to be getting rid of the pin and going back to a bolt as I've found that the hitch pin mod doesn't help me that much.
But don't let me stop you from making big bold declarations or anything.....
If I was to make my plates so they shifted the axle forward by a 1/2" (12mm) the tie rod would be right behind the casting in the arm for the rear axle bushing when at full lock. This is not to say it's the same contact area as we all know along the top edge but where the casting transits to the rear bushing.
Now if you were to put a hitch pin in and pull it things wouldn't be so good.
So if you pulled the drivers side front bolt, turned hard left and then compressed that side all that load would come to rest on the tierod. The minimum result would impair steering.
I don't mind helping but if you are inclined to do dangerous stupid s***, I'm out.
- Thread starter
- #97
This is a fair explanation as to why you are not comfortable with providing your modified plates.
Your previous answer just made you sound like a bit of a dick.
As already mentioned, I'm not going to be pulling the hitch pin so in this case it's a non-issue. But it's something that is good to be aware of.
- Thread starter
- #99
Funny, I thought your response to him made you sound like a prick
Fair enough, I was a little annoyed. ;p
If I order a set of LT's plates I'll be sure to do it under another name.
