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Just outside Hendersonville. Near Jeter Mountain I believe.
Got mine dyno tuned the other day only went 160kw and 500NM, pretty low numbers for a 6ltr with a baby cam..
was that AWD?? 4x4?? or just RWD??? it seems fairly low IMO, whats your cam specs??? who did you tune???
Don't let the dyno numbers fool you. Lot of variables and factors involved when figuring that number. So you're making 215 rwhp and 368 ft lbs. A lot of that power gets lost through the drivetrain (15% to 25%) and your tire size and weight plays a roll. Another factor is the type of dyno. Was it a hydraulic dyno or the Mustang chassis dyno with roller? If the seat of the pants feeling is good and it should be with the torque you're making and you smile when you drive it that's all that matters. What was the crank hp on your motor? 360 hp or 322 hp? That's an L96 vortec motor right?
Got mine dyno tuned the other day only went 160kw and 500NM, pretty low numbers for a 6ltr with a baby cam..
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bloc
SILVER Star
CC is an option without the BCM but it depends on your route. Most of the genIV trucks have an E38 ECM which doesn't have cruise built-in. Dakota Digital and Speartech (probably more) make Cruise modules that plug into the OBDII port and interrupt the APP (throttle pedal) signal to get cruise functioning. These systems start at about $300 though. And that doesn't have any provisions for Tow/Haul mode.
The Corvette/Camaro ECM may have cruise built-in.. but no tow-haul, and would have come from a vehicle with "car chassis" accessories. So the alternator would be mounted low, and no option for a mechanical fan.
If you get a truck/SUV engine the BCM does all of this stuff and more. IF you don't get a complete chassis.. make sure you get all of the pigtails with the BCM. Also useful would be the Charge current sensor and pigtail on the negative battery cable. not super expensive, but easily forgotten.
bloc
SILVER Star
Well, looks like the LS3 pan is a bust for low-lifts.
This is sitting on the bump stops with 1.5" spacers.. stops pretty compressed. Pan hits the axle by MAYBE 1/8".. If it had 1/4" of clearance I'd go with it. For perspective, the bar across left/middle is the top-rear of the axle housing, the mass in top right is the front of the LS3 pan.
Still.. someone with a 4" lift, 2" bump spacers, and probably slee arms could get it to clear. With stock radius arms I think the caster correction for a 4" lift would roll the axle back more and increase pan/axle contact.
Looks like an F-body pan with only 5qts is in my future. I'll definitely be running a thermostat-controlled oil cooler of some kind.
I also think I found a good location for the Oil pressure gauge sender to keep it away from the exhaust manifolds and make the harness run shorter.
On the rear of the lifter valley cover is a post that sticks up and the GM oil pressure sender is screwed in. There's plenty of room between that and the "well" in the firewall for the length of the stock inline-6 engine to have the toyota oil sender pointed backward. So I'll remove the cover soon and make sure there's enough room and meat to drill/tap for the toyota sensor.
I THINK the thread is 1/8-28 pipe thread.. or at least the tap I have of that thread seems like a perfect match. Will do some research before I drill/tap the cover however.
This is sitting on the bump stops with 1.5" spacers.. stops pretty compressed. Pan hits the axle by MAYBE 1/8".. If it had 1/4" of clearance I'd go with it. For perspective, the bar across left/middle is the top-rear of the axle housing, the mass in top right is the front of the LS3 pan.
Still.. someone with a 4" lift, 2" bump spacers, and probably slee arms could get it to clear. With stock radius arms I think the caster correction for a 4" lift would roll the axle back more and increase pan/axle contact.
Looks like an F-body pan with only 5qts is in my future. I'll definitely be running a thermostat-controlled oil cooler of some kind.
I also think I found a good location for the Oil pressure gauge sender to keep it away from the exhaust manifolds and make the harness run shorter.
On the rear of the lifter valley cover is a post that sticks up and the GM oil pressure sender is screwed in. There's plenty of room between that and the "well" in the firewall for the length of the stock inline-6 engine to have the toyota oil sender pointed backward. So I'll remove the cover soon and make sure there's enough room and meat to drill/tap for the toyota sensor.
I THINK the thread is 1/8-28 pipe thread.. or at least the tap I have of that thread seems like a perfect match. Will do some research before I drill/tap the cover however.
bloc
SILVER Star
This is the engine sitting in place to figure out motor-mount location
Yes, I realized yesterday that my OME steering stabilizer is installed backwards.
Apparently a few guys running 6L80s have had to move the engine/transmission forward an inch to clear. This is a bigger deal for me, having an IPOR skid plate that has 3/4" of steel where the new bolt holes would need to be. Plus, I thought I could make it work.
So. I went to town on the firewall with a deadblow hammer and got the room I need. It's tight, and the insulation didn't survive very well (was already in really bad shape).. but the head and coil pack clear, barely. I'll leave the rearmost coil bracket bolt out.. but should still have room to remove the valve cover and do anything I need to.
I also was able to get the engine pretty much straight in the chassis. I've seen mention of having to shove GenIII motors to the passenger side.. I found with the mounts perfectly centered there was over an inch between the PS pump pulley and the steering box.. and more than an inch between the AC compressor and the PS frame rail. About 1-1/2" from the AC pump bracket to the tubular frame crossmember.. things fit great.
The following pics are with the motor mounts in place, but the frame-side just hanging while I take measurements.
One other potential issue with GenIV/6L80E swaps is driveshaft clearance with the bellhousing.
Again, with truck sitting on bump-stops. Xfer case end of driveline is approximated. MAYBE 3/32" of clearance between the driveshaft wiper seal and a boss on the outer edge of the bellhousing.
The boss doesn't seem important so it got sawz-alled off when the engine was pulled back out. If I hit both bump stops very hard I could see slight contact happening. But.. I have the engine pretty low. Depending on clearance between the truck intake and hood I may shim it up a little. The Dirty Dingo motor mounts make this very easy to do.
Yes, I realized yesterday that my OME steering stabilizer is installed backwards.
Apparently a few guys running 6L80s have had to move the engine/transmission forward an inch to clear. This is a bigger deal for me, having an IPOR skid plate that has 3/4" of steel where the new bolt holes would need to be. Plus, I thought I could make it work.
So. I went to town on the firewall with a deadblow hammer and got the room I need. It's tight, and the insulation didn't survive very well (was already in really bad shape).. but the head and coil pack clear, barely. I'll leave the rearmost coil bracket bolt out.. but should still have room to remove the valve cover and do anything I need to.
I also was able to get the engine pretty much straight in the chassis. I've seen mention of having to shove GenIII motors to the passenger side.. I found with the mounts perfectly centered there was over an inch between the PS pump pulley and the steering box.. and more than an inch between the AC compressor and the PS frame rail. About 1-1/2" from the AC pump bracket to the tubular frame crossmember.. things fit great.
The following pics are with the motor mounts in place, but the frame-side just hanging while I take measurements.
One other potential issue with GenIV/6L80E swaps is driveshaft clearance with the bellhousing.
Again, with truck sitting on bump-stops. Xfer case end of driveline is approximated. MAYBE 3/32" of clearance between the driveshaft wiper seal and a boss on the outer edge of the bellhousing.
The boss doesn't seem important so it got sawz-alled off when the engine was pulled back out. If I hit both bump stops very hard I could see slight contact happening. But.. I have the engine pretty low. Depending on clearance between the truck intake and hood I may shim it up a little. The Dirty Dingo motor mounts make this very easy to do.
bloc
SILVER Star
More pics of engine location. This is with the frame-side mounting legs tacked to some 1/4" plates that are tacked to the frame. Tacks are mainly to mark location. I'll remove the plates and weld up the legs on a bench.. then burn the plates to the frame.
This is the DS mount. It doesn't sit flat due to a bump in the frame from my ham-fisted attempts to remove the stock mounting legs. Also ignore my terrible versions of straight lines.. first time to use a cutting torch in about 6 years.
On it's way back out. Now I'll reassemble everything with new gaskets/seals short of the heads and timing chain cover to prep for reassembly. Drop accessory brackets off at the machine shop to be cleaned up, cut the trans output shaft, weld up the motor mounts, etc. Next time it goes in it should stay put.
This is the DS mount. It doesn't sit flat due to a bump in the frame from my ham-fisted attempts to remove the stock mounting legs. Also ignore my terrible versions of straight lines.. first time to use a cutting torch in about 6 years.
On it's way back out. Now I'll reassemble everything with new gaskets/seals short of the heads and timing chain cover to prep for reassembly. Drop accessory brackets off at the machine shop to be cleaned up, cut the trans output shaft, weld up the motor mounts, etc. Next time it goes in it should stay put.
You would need an adapter to add another oil pressure sensor, if you try and drill and tap the pictured you'll ruin it.
Water & Oil Sensor Adaptors - Engine Conversions
Oil Pressure Adapter | eBay
Street & Performance make one that points the added sensor off at 45* these usually fit better.
On the rear of the lifter valley cover is a post that sticks up and the GM oil pressure sender is screwed in. There's plenty of room between that and the "well" in the firewall for the length of the stock inline-6 engine to have the toyota oil sender pointed backward. So I'll remove the cover soon and make sure there's enough room and meat to drill/tap for the toyota sensor.
View attachment 1404054
View attachment 1404055
I THINK the thread is 1/8-28 pipe thread.. or at least the tap I have of that thread seems like a perfect match. Will do some research before I drill/tap the cover however.[/QUOTE]
Water & Oil Sensor Adaptors - Engine Conversions
Oil Pressure Adapter | eBay
Street & Performance make one that points the added sensor off at 45* these usually fit better.
On the rear of the lifter valley cover is a post that sticks up and the GM oil pressure sender is screwed in. There's plenty of room between that and the "well" in the firewall for the length of the stock inline-6 engine to have the toyota oil sender pointed backward. So I'll remove the cover soon and make sure there's enough room and meat to drill/tap for the toyota sensor.
View attachment 1404054
View attachment 1404055
I THINK the thread is 1/8-28 pipe thread.. or at least the tap I have of that thread seems like a perfect match. Will do some research before I drill/tap the cover however.[/QUOTE]
bloc
SILVER Star
Why would that ruin it? I was planning on going in the side/rear of the post and leaving the original sensor so the ECM has its input.
Just ditch the factory GM sender. It serves no purpose for engine running. It's only use would be if you were using the GM dash and gauge.
I just put the toyota sender in place of the GM with and adapter. Very clean
bloc
SILVER Star
I've been doing a bit of digging.. It appears the 2500/3500 silverados with the 6.0 V8 had an adjustable fast idle option using the cruise control switches, again through the BCM. None of the 6.2 model trucks had it, but they do share ECMs so this should be a feature we can turn on with HPTuners. I'll be researching this as the DBW setup is making my existing fast idle knob (for winching) useless.
Little bit of info here: https://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/63135_FastIdle_UI_82_D3.pdf
(a note in that document says fast idle can't be retrofitted to vans but people have documented doing so online)
The stock GM pressure sensor is wired to the ECM directly.. then signals get sent to the cluster. From the little bit of research I've been doing you can configure the engine to shut down if oil pressure drops. A feature I'd like to keep.
Besides.. what is so bad about drilling/tapping that post and using both sensors? There's plenty of room. It's relatively low pressure so I won't need to put a ton of torque on the toyota sensor and risk cracking the post
Little bit of info here: https://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/63135_FastIdle_UI_82_D3.pdf
(a note in that document says fast idle can't be retrofitted to vans but people have documented doing so online)
The stock GM pressure sensor is wired to the ECM directly.. then signals get sent to the cluster. From the little bit of research I've been doing you can configure the engine to shut down if oil pressure drops. A feature I'd like to keep.
Besides.. what is so bad about drilling/tapping that post and using both sensors? There's plenty of room. It's relatively low pressure so I won't need to put a ton of torque on the toyota sensor and risk cracking the post
It seemed that you were talking about drilling a hole the factory oil pressure sensor? Or a you talking about drilling a new hole in the block? Either way there is a cheap adapter that will allow for two.
My LS has no post at that location, needing the adapter.
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I could be wrong but this GM oil pressure sensor also confirms oil pressure and will cut off fuel pump if oil pressure is not present
The ls engines don't care if they have oil pressure or not. They will rune without any pressure until they blow up. I own a gen III 6.0 in my Jeep and a 2013 Gen IV in the Lexus and neither has a factory oil pressure sender. No codes or ill effects from not having the sender. Just my opinion but I don't want my fuel pump cutting out if the pressure drops or having a sender go bad and cripple the engine. In the past fuel pump relays used to have a tie in with oil pressure and im sure you could do that if you wanted but don't think its necessary. I dont know if you can even program the ecm to change an output based on oil pressure. Just my experience
I thought about giving this a shot- Multi-Port Oil Sensor and Accumulator Adapter for LS Engines EGM-116
Have you seen this before? Do you think it might work?
Have you seen this before? Do you think it might work?
bloc
SILVER Star
No, I want to drill a hole in the rear-facing side of the post that rises up on the lifter valley cover for the GM sensor. Stock sensor could then be screwed in on top as normal.
My thinking is that the wires are already there, the ECM is looking for the sensor, I've seen reports of low oil pressure shutting off fuel pump (which I personally want). As to the disabling aspect.. I never travel without some dignoatic capability, and if things operate as some in this thread describe I could just unplug the sensor if it malfunctions and the truck should run.
Anyone else heard of the fast-idle feature on vortec trucks?
Personally I wouldn't chance drilling the hole for a $20 adapter... That's just me
As for the function of the oil sensor I'm 99% sure it tied into fuel pump relay, maybe if you deleted that input off the ECM it would go away but it's a fail safe built in by GM!! I would want to keep it too
bloc
SILVER Star
I haven't seen an adapter that would both T out for a second Toyota sender and keep the factory GM one. Guess I need to do some more digging.
