I use royal purple in mine and also in my the 6.0L in my jeep with no issues. No leaks or weird effects with that fluid in the Lexus or the Jeep with full hydro steering. The Lexus has a log/ heat sink style cooler behind the front bumper too
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (20 Viewers)
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I like the idea, just curious how to tell if it is "engaged" or not. It would be nice if there was a light output from the ecm . Maybe there is a momentary switch that has a latch to keep it depressed until you push it again.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
You know it's engaged because tires chirp when you hit second
Well if you're part time anyway.
One of these can be used to have a light for indication:
Well if you're part time anyway.
One of these can be used to have a light for indication:
bloc
SILVER Star
The pump is basically the same thing as the pump in an automatic transmission. The AT pump spins at Engine RPMs, but has a much larger impeller so speeds at the seals may actually be greater than in the PS pump which is slightly overdriven but has a much smaller impellar. On top of that, conditions inside the saginaw are pretty much like that of the toyota PS pump. Based on what I know about ATF I'm guessing the only significant difference between it and PSF is it has friction modifiers to work with the clutch packs in a typical automatic transmission. Otherwise the demands on the fluids would be really similar. That said, I understand GM could have specified seals in the PS pump that are designed to work with the specific components of PSF and ATF may not play nice with them.. but again, I'd rather rebuild the pump. IMO my PS box being old isn't a good reason to use the fluid less likely to be good for it. Even if it were new based on the cost and complexity of rebuilding (I can do the pump at home.. not the box) I'd still choose to replace/rebuild a few pumps before a box.
Again, my opinion. Others are welcome to disagree.
What product from Royoal Purple? And I'm ditching the paperclip cooler for a real heat exchanger while I have the systems open.
Problem with a momentary switch with indicator light is it would need to have a way to reset if it's on and you cycle the ignition, which is what the ECM would do with this mode, AFAIK.
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bloc
SILVER Star
Been working away at stuff, but haven't finished anything until today.
Got the charging system updated. The Escalade this engine came from doesn't use a fusible link on the main alternator charge wire.. it has a 175A mega fuse, so I stripped the stock charge wire from the largest of the fusible links, and left it in place for the other circuits that run off of it. Laid a new wire for the alternator charge circuit, and ran it through a Blue Seas Systems 7721 splash/dirt proof fuse block. Also in the photo you can see the Gm Battery Current Sensor added to the main battery negative wires running to the block and body. This will allow the GM BCM to track amp load and then command the ECM to adjust alternator output. I made the large ground wire too long and will be adjusting the length when I find the correct ring terminal for the size of bolt on the GM block. Also will be shortening the smaller ground.
Been messing with this fan shroud for a couple days now.. finally done. It is the Summit SUM-380457-SH universal shroud. With a little trimming of the top and bottom flanges it fits the stock toyota radiator perfectly.. contacting the flanges on top and bottom, not the fins. Thing is, it's only set up for a 20" fan.. my 19" fan needed an inch of room on each side, so I needed a 21" opening. This meant adding a chunk of aluminum to the ring to get it large enough, and using some of the spare aluminum sheet cut out of the middle to patch holes where the ring is larger than the core. I don't have access to a TIG or that's what I would have done instead of the pop rivets.. I don't think they'll work long term due to vibration. If I have issues I'll switch to steel rivets or bring the assembly to the local welder for him to make more solid. I bent up some aluminum bar for retainers on the top, and had to add small legs to the bottom to fit into the tabs on the lower rad core like the stock shroud. You'll also see I had to modify some bolts to clear the tank lip. Welding would avoid these.. but they actually "lock in" the shroud under the lower tank. If these legs aren't added the shroud will rest on the lower hose and the Driver's side trans cooling spout off the lower tank. Not good long-term.
Also, the ring and fan can be removed at the same time without opening the cooling system.. getting the rest of the shroud off will require removing the upper hose to radiator fitting.
Overall the kit is very nice and only $59. I could have mounted the small ring-locating L brackets on the "inside" of the shroud and had them not as visible.. didn't realize that til I had a bunch of holes drilled already. Oh well.
Lots of pics not particularly in order
I don't think I have enough hose clamps.. I think the count is 27 between intake and cooling systems. Lots of different size hoses to adapt, other hoses to cut and splice, etc..
Got the charging system updated. The Escalade this engine came from doesn't use a fusible link on the main alternator charge wire.. it has a 175A mega fuse, so I stripped the stock charge wire from the largest of the fusible links, and left it in place for the other circuits that run off of it. Laid a new wire for the alternator charge circuit, and ran it through a Blue Seas Systems 7721 splash/dirt proof fuse block. Also in the photo you can see the Gm Battery Current Sensor added to the main battery negative wires running to the block and body. This will allow the GM BCM to track amp load and then command the ECM to adjust alternator output. I made the large ground wire too long and will be adjusting the length when I find the correct ring terminal for the size of bolt on the GM block. Also will be shortening the smaller ground.
Been messing with this fan shroud for a couple days now.. finally done. It is the Summit SUM-380457-SH universal shroud. With a little trimming of the top and bottom flanges it fits the stock toyota radiator perfectly.. contacting the flanges on top and bottom, not the fins. Thing is, it's only set up for a 20" fan.. my 19" fan needed an inch of room on each side, so I needed a 21" opening. This meant adding a chunk of aluminum to the ring to get it large enough, and using some of the spare aluminum sheet cut out of the middle to patch holes where the ring is larger than the core. I don't have access to a TIG or that's what I would have done instead of the pop rivets.. I don't think they'll work long term due to vibration. If I have issues I'll switch to steel rivets or bring the assembly to the local welder for him to make more solid. I bent up some aluminum bar for retainers on the top, and had to add small legs to the bottom to fit into the tabs on the lower rad core like the stock shroud. You'll also see I had to modify some bolts to clear the tank lip. Welding would avoid these.. but they actually "lock in" the shroud under the lower tank. If these legs aren't added the shroud will rest on the lower hose and the Driver's side trans cooling spout off the lower tank. Not good long-term.
Also, the ring and fan can be removed at the same time without opening the cooling system.. getting the rest of the shroud off will require removing the upper hose to radiator fitting.
Overall the kit is very nice and only $59. I could have mounted the small ring-locating L brackets on the "inside" of the shroud and had them not as visible.. didn't realize that til I had a bunch of holes drilled already. Oh well.
Lots of pics not particularly in order
bloc
SILVER Star
bloc
SILVER Star
Marking the center. I didn't take pics but used a piece of spare wire with ring terminals 11.5" apart to mark my 21" circle.
Also I used these gates heater hoses to turn the tight 90 into the hose fittings on the side of the water pump. I elected to keep the hoses above the PS valve cover instead of along the frame rail like most people using the car intake. This meant the hoses would kink next to the pump.. so I added these with size adapters
Also I used these gates heater hoses to turn the tight 90 into the hose fittings on the side of the water pump. I elected to keep the hoses above the PS valve cover instead of along the frame rail like most people using the car intake. This meant the hoses would kink next to the pump.. so I added these with size adapters
bloc
SILVER Star
Little bit more work on the exhaust and it'll move under its own power.. then I need to decide what to do about mufflers and AT and PS cooler lines.
bloc
SILVER Star
OH.. and thanks to @thatcabledude for the shroud part number, and @rockrod for the idea of using a universal shroud in the first place.
bloc
SILVER Star
Three stitches in my left eyebrow. Building an exhaust from the headers back is a pain in the ass without all the tools a pro would use.
@Squad1 have any pics of that PS cooler setup? I see the cooler online but am curious how you routed the lines
Also do you get your pushlock hardware locally or online? I was interested in the stuff for those lines but hadn't really started looking for a source yet. Though with wanting to get the truck done for vacation in 2.5 weeks I better get on it.
@Squad1 have any pics of that PS cooler setup? I see the cooler online but am curious how you routed the lines
Also do you get your pushlock hardware locally or online? I was interested in the stuff for those lines but hadn't really started looking for a source yet. Though with wanting to get the truck done for vacation in 2.5 weeks I better get on it.
I'll post some pics of the cooler tomorrow. I ususally get my hose and fittings from my friends speed shop. He sells aeroquip. Sometimes I go to the Parker hydraulic store. Not sure if there is one near you ,but they sell Russell at good prices or if I'm lazy and bored I just use Summit racing
I didn't use the #6 fittings on the cooler only because I didn't have any more at the time and it came with the 3/8 barbed fittings which are the same size. If I ever take it apart I will put the pushlock fittings on the hose at the cooler and use the 1/4 pipe to #6 adapters on the cooler instead of the barbed ones. I ran the hoses under the radiator and up to the box and pump instead of using the factory "pass through" pipes because it seamed to fit better and was 4 less connections
If you can do an engine swap, the box is a piece of cake to reseal. The idea of it is far more intimidating that the reality from first hand experience.
bloc
SILVER Star
Good point..
However I decided a while back that If I ever open my steering box it will be to install a 100-series sector shaft and arm. Then tolerances will change and that is something I'd rather farm out to a pro.
However I decided a while back that If I ever open my steering box it will be to install a 100-series sector shaft and arm. Then tolerances will change and that is something I'd rather farm out to a pro.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
bloc
SILVER Star
I'll try to remember to get a few pics of the hose.
The small 5/16 air purge fitting is in the way to totally lay it down in there.. but the hose sortof sits above that, sortof halfway down between the fan ring and upper rad tank. It clears the hood, just barely. Even if it rubs a little the part of the hood that is involved is one of the braces and is very smooth.
I'll need to find something to protect the passenger side of the upper hose where it rubs on the fan ring slightly.. might use some scrap aluminum or I've used a chunk of leather in the past. If I had made the hose slightly longer it may not have hit, but I was limited by where the bends were in the hoses I cut up.
my long-term idea is to have a piece of aluminum or stainless pipe fabricated and mounted in the recess, then rubber hoses for the last 6" to the rad tank, and 12" to the water pump. Still not quite sure how to deal with the air purge nipple but the metal pipe giving the option of squeezing it thinner in a spot or two should help.
Long story short... electric fans probably would have been a lot cleaner and easier. But I've debated this to death before.. I prefer mechanical if at all possible. Apparently, it's possible.
The small 5/16 air purge fitting is in the way to totally lay it down in there.. but the hose sortof sits above that, sortof halfway down between the fan ring and upper rad tank. It clears the hood, just barely. Even if it rubs a little the part of the hood that is involved is one of the braces and is very smooth.
I'll need to find something to protect the passenger side of the upper hose where it rubs on the fan ring slightly.. might use some scrap aluminum or I've used a chunk of leather in the past. If I had made the hose slightly longer it may not have hit, but I was limited by where the bends were in the hoses I cut up.
my long-term idea is to have a piece of aluminum or stainless pipe fabricated and mounted in the recess, then rubber hoses for the last 6" to the rad tank, and 12" to the water pump. Still not quite sure how to deal with the air purge nipple but the metal pipe giving the option of squeezing it thinner in a spot or two should help.
Long story short... electric fans probably would have been a lot cleaner and easier. But I've debated this to death before.. I prefer mechanical if at all possible. Apparently, it's possible.
bloc
SILVER Star
bloc
SILVER Star
Is it possible to get pics of the AC lines out of the pump in rigs with the stock airbox? Especially if you still have the tuna can..
Trying to come up with a strategy on this and not having much in the way of ideas.
Trying to come up with a strategy on this and not having much in the way of ideas.
This is where I bought all my a/c parts from. I'll see if I can find the invoice with the individual part numbers. I can tell you that I ditched the factory tube that runs behind the passenger side head and put one of the toyota fittings there instead.
Cold Hose - AC Hoses, Hose Kits and Fittings
I am just switching to a different wiring harness that allows me to use a factory gm pressure transducer on the high side line's service port. This will allow the ecm to monitor a/c pressure and cycle one of the cooling fans on and off as needed.
I used 2 compression fitting to adapt the 12 mm and 14mm ( i believe) toyota lines to the standard 1/2" and 5/8" a/c hose. All in all it worked well and I was able to minimize the number of fittings. I looked through my pics and don't have any that show the a/c but I will get some and post them if it will help
One other thing I did was use all the factory toyota wiring for the a/c including the pressure/safety switch by the battery. I basically just substituted the toyota compressor with the gm and hooked up the wires to the gm clutch. It all works great
Cold Hose - AC Hoses, Hose Kits and Fittings
I am just switching to a different wiring harness that allows me to use a factory gm pressure transducer on the high side line's service port. This will allow the ecm to monitor a/c pressure and cycle one of the cooling fans on and off as needed.
I used 2 compression fitting to adapt the 12 mm and 14mm ( i believe) toyota lines to the standard 1/2" and 5/8" a/c hose. All in all it worked well and I was able to minimize the number of fittings. I looked through my pics and don't have any that show the a/c but I will get some and post them if it will help
One other thing I did was use all the factory toyota wiring for the a/c including the pressure/safety switch by the battery. I basically just substituted the toyota compressor with the gm and hooked up the wires to the gm clutch. It all works great
