88 FJ62-Vortec 5.3L Re-Power & more....VIDEO ADDED

[NCFJ]

Gotta love wiring, all wires terminated and labeled. Wires can be pulled and dash can come out, just like stock.

 

[NCFJ]

Dash all back together, horn actually works as designed now. The two lights just above the steering wheel at 10 o clock are added for high beam and E-brake

 

[MarkN]

Great job...

 

[drillduty]

Looks incredible Stan true craftsman!

 

[drillduty]

New Lokar shifter and twin sticks look factory stock

 

[NCFJ]

You know it's getting close when the hood goes on

Heather made matching shift boots. One on the left is a twin stick, can't find them anywhere else.

 

[DoubleNickels]

Awesome thread, thanks for sharing!

 

[NCFJ]

Ranger came back with a brand new exhaust today, getting close

 

[gregnash]

She's a beaut.... Seeing trucks with a good OG color paint job makes me want to go that route. Will be the eternal debate for me until I actually get around to painting mine.

 

[Krazytoy]

[/QUOTE]Heather made matching shift boots. One on the left is a twin stick, can't find them anywhere else.

[/QUOTE]

Very nice touch, nice to see the family engaged in the business. Almost, a priceless piece of the conversion.

 

[NCFJ]

Heather says "thank you". There is also a matching E-brake boot. She is currently selling E-brake boots for 60 & 80 and T-case boots for the 80. She is slowly working on seat replacement covers for the 60 series as well along with making me made to order boots to fit Lokar shift boot rings

 

[NCFJ]

well, I was hoping that the wheel cylinder had not been leaking long and this would be a quick job of just swapping it out. No such luck. It had been leaking a while, between fluid, dirt and break dust there was a paste all over everything. Just needed a little love.

 

[NCFJ]

ll should be dry by now and the new shoes and hardware kits should be waiting at the parts store for me. One main spring was broken.

 

[NCFJ]

Sending unit from Autometer that matches fuel gauge. Trying to get the stock unit to work is not worth the time.

 

[NCFJ]

All purdy again, new cylinder,shoes,hardware and springs. Complete brake system was flushed and bled. Some seriously nasty old fluid in there and one bleeder was rusted to the point it would not work.

 

[Slow Left]

@NCFJ , do you lube any of those rear drum brake parts? If so, which parts and what kind of lube? And where does one have to be careful not to lube so that it doesn't affect braking?

A month or two back I had what I think is shoes stuck 'on' (parking after driving around I would get out and feel the rear rims staying real hot) and I'm suspecting sticky cylinders...the brake parts themselves are fairly new (within the last year or two) but when I installed them, I didn't lube anything...and even after 1 winter salt will have its way...

Thx.

 

[gregnash]

When I redid mine I did not lube anything but the ebrake arms as they had previously been seized and so I did everything I could to salvage them and ensure they worked properly again.

@NCFJ - How did you get the backing plate and everything so damn clean?! Did you take a wirewheel to it or something? I need to clean my rears up again and feel like I will probably clean and paint everything and look at machining the drums.

 

[Slow Left]

When I redid mine I did not lube anything but the ebrake arms as they had previously been seized and so I did everything I could to salvage them and ensure they worked properly again.

Any particular part you would recommend, Greg? Also, what type of grease did you use?

 

[60Works]

Just a thought - all that goo might not be solely from the cylinders. You may have leaking axle seals too. (which will then lead to replacing wheel bearings and potentially pitted axle races.) ((and then onto installing a locker and changing gears since you've already got the cover off and the axles out.))



The only parts I lube on the drum setup are the threads of the adjusting screw (copper anti-seize) and the arms of the park brake bell cranks (whatever grease is in the knuckles and U-joints). For the bell cranks, after disassembly and cleaning, I pack them and the boots completely full of grease to keep the water out. Twice now I've had PO's who put the bell crank mount on backwards, which allows water into the drum. It extreme cold weather, below 0°F where salt water from the road freezes, it will lock the wheel.

 

[Slow Left]

The only parts I lube on the drum setup are the threads of the adjusting screw (copper anti-seize) and the arms of the park brake bell cranks (whatever grease is in the knuckles and U-joints). For the bell cranks, after disassembly and cleaning, I pack them and the boots completely full of grease to keep the water out. Twice now I've had PO's who put the bell crank mount on backwards, which allows water into the drum. It extreme cold weather, below 0°F where salt water from the road freezes, it will lock the wheel.

OK. Thanks for the tip J. I'll take a look...since I'm the guy who put the brake parts together last, I guess if things are on backwards I can't blame the PO...