Heck we are neighbors, just a few clicks down the road from Darlene’s place.
Builds ‘82 FJ45 build thread..... no name yet
- Thread starter sloanstavern
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Color code 464? Should be a three digit code on placard. Either on firewall or engine side of passenger side front fender, lateral to battery.
Looks like that color code ran ‘76-83 here stateside, not sure about foreign markets like UAE or Saudi. Hope this may help.
464 beige as per photo of compliance plate.
Probably one of the most popular Landcruiser colours
Probably one of the most popular Landcruiser colours
There are heaps of info on these on MUD, ie. orange peel effect finish, off the gun single stage acrylics (ppg) or modern tupac over epoxy primers..
its no point changing the colour from original as it will only devalue your pretty truck.
also, the compliance plate and some other details show that this car has been repainted probably sandblasted that is why the plate on the firewall is tarnished the way it is.
So if you don’t like the colour it is not the original that you dont like but the one is currently on her probably.
its no point changing the colour from original as it will only devalue your pretty truck.
also, the compliance plate and some other details show that this car has been repainted probably sandblasted that is why the plate on the firewall is tarnished the way it is.
So if you don’t like the colour it is not the original that you dont like but the one is currently on her probably.
- Thread starter
- #46
It does, thanks!
- Thread starter
- #47
thanks for the info. I believe this truck was painted possibly multiple times in a virtual car wash. It is sprayed over everything! And I am preparing my self for finding lots of filler. Since I have time before I need to make that selection I’ll look at some good samples of the original color. The spots I’ve seen have a greenish “sea foam” tint to them
- Thread starter
- #48
I had a chance to look at better paint chips and 464 is the one I wanted. The truck now has a very sad tan - flesh color ( think hearing aid color) on absolutely EVERYTHING.
464 it is.
Hope to have the body seperated and roof off early next week and start the stripping. I might try soda blasting on this one, any reports?
464 it is.
Hope to have the body seperated and roof off early next week and start the stripping. I might try soda blasting on this one, any reports?
- Thread starter
- #49
What do you guys think the weight of each of these parts will be? The roof by itself, the striped body. Also do you think I need to brace the door jams before I take this thing off
If you need a hand lifting anything off I would be happy to help out. My ‘76 will be going frame off in the next year or so as well. Tom
I would vote for soda blasting as I hear sand blasting larger panels generates heat and could create warping. I know a guy in Casa Grande who has blasted a few smaller parts for me, but don’t think he is setup for larger items or media blasting. I am planning media blasting and metal repair on my ‘76.
- Thread starter
- #52
The morning got off to a great start removed all the glass the four sliders the two corners and the windshield with no breakage, that’s a good thing I could not find any write ups on how to get the sliders out so I’ll post that with some pictures later on. A little bit of rust on the corner cells but I think the metal can be saved will find out.
Looking good Scott
Did you import it Scott or did someone else bring it over and then you purchased it? I have a friend that brings Landcruisers over from Costa Rica.
- Thread starter
- #55
Rear slider removal 1982 FJ45- non US markrt
Here are the tools and techniques are used to remove the rear sliders. I love that painters tool to help it has many nice edges.
Slide both windows to one end and then start removing the weatherstripping. It is installed as one piece serving two channels but it’s pretty hard to get it out as one piece as it tends to split down the middle. The iner half comes out easy but the outer section tends to hook on the outside metal trim it’s tempting to pry hard to get it out but the metal frame is easily deformed so be careful.
Once you get the open side clear brush and vacuum all the debris away then slide both windows to the open section, don’t worry they won’t fall out by themselves. Continue removing the weatherstripping until it’s 100% removed and the track is cleared and vacuumed .
To remove the glass slide the outer pain to the center of the frame and you need to grab it in the upper corners and press down and gently push up on the metal frame it barely clears and he will have glass and metal scraping.
To remove the glass slide the outer pain to the center of the frame and you need to grab it in the upper corners and press down and gently push up on the metal frame it barely clears and he will have glass on metal scraping.
To remove the inner glass pane it helps to position it in the outer track then repeat the removal process.
Hope that makes sense if the previous owner didn’t gum it up with caulk it actually comes out pretty easy good luck
Here are the tools and techniques are used to remove the rear sliders. I love that painters tool to help it has many nice edges.
Slide both windows to one end and then start removing the weatherstripping. It is installed as one piece serving two channels but it’s pretty hard to get it out as one piece as it tends to split down the middle. The iner half comes out easy but the outer section tends to hook on the outside metal trim it’s tempting to pry hard to get it out but the metal frame is easily deformed so be careful.
Once you get the open side clear brush and vacuum all the debris away then slide both windows to the open section, don’t worry they won’t fall out by themselves. Continue removing the weatherstripping until it’s 100% removed and the track is cleared and vacuumed .
To remove the glass slide the outer pain to the center of the frame and you need to grab it in the upper corners and press down and gently push up on the metal frame it barely clears and he will have glass and metal scraping.
To remove the glass slide the outer pain to the center of the frame and you need to grab it in the upper corners and press down and gently push up on the metal frame it barely clears and he will have glass on metal scraping.
To remove the inner glass pane it helps to position it in the outer track then repeat the removal process.
Hope that makes sense if the previous owner didn’t gum it up with caulk it actually comes out pretty easy good luck
- Thread starter
- #56
I bought it from a guy on mud who bring them in from the Middle East ( left hand drive)
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
I like how it had Granite county MT tags, just over the hills to the east of me, I would have loved to score that.
I'd trade my 40 for a troopy project.
- Thread starter
- #58
Thanks - The importer placed MT tags on it since that is where he has his business, but he lives in So-Cal. The truck never made it that far inland.
However it may get close, I just picked up some land on the Idaho side of the Tetons, and I think this would be the perfect rig for that part of the world
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Ryan getting the flyrods into a Troopy would probably be a whole lot easier too
