Builds ‘82 FJ45 build thread..... no name yet (2 Viewers)

[tls3601]

You beat me to that one! Ha ha. I have been considering land up in Montana. Might eventually be joining you Ryan

 

[koxfarm]

If you need a hand lifting anything off I would be happy to help out. My ‘76 will be going frame off in the next year or so as well. Tom

Lucky for a having good neighbours

 

[koxfarm]

What do you guys think the weight of each of these parts will be? The roof by itself, the striped body. Also do you think I need to brace the door jams before I take this thing off

The roof can be a one man job although its heavy nearly about 80-100lbs. The side panels without glass are one man job easy, just need to be careful not to damage the upper w/s seal between the side and the tub. Those of the longer part stapled to the rr curve can be usually re-used.
Taking the tub off is a hoist or small crane job. Its about 400kgs at least. It is definitely advised to brace door jambs. You can cut a pipe or sqtube and bolt theB column lock to the upper door hinge on A column. I have seen some welding a brace butI think bolting is much nicer way.
Are you planning to put the tub on a rotisser?

 

[koxfarm]

Rear slider removal 1982 FJ45- non US markrt
Here are the tools and techniques are used to remove the rear sliders. I love that painters tool to help it has many nice edges.

Slide both windows to one end and then start removing the weatherstripping. It is installed as one piece serving two channels but it’s pretty hard to get it out as one piece as it tends to split down the middle. The iner half comes out easy but the outer section tends to hook on the outside metal trim it’s tempting to pry hard to get it out but the metal frame is easily deformed so be careful.

Once you get the open side clear brush and vacuum all the debris away then slide both windows to the open section, don’t worry they won’t fall out by themselves. Continue removing the weatherstripping until it’s 100% removed and the track is cleared and vacuumed .

To remove the glass slide the outer pain to the center of the frame and you need to grab it in the upper corners and press down and gently push up on the metal frame it barely clears and he will have glass and metal scraping.

To remove the glass slide the outer pain to the center of the frame and you need to grab it in the upper corners and press down and gently push up on the metal frame it barely clears and he will have glass on metal scraping.
To remove the inner glass pane it helps to position it in the outer track then repeat the removal process.

Hope that makes sense if the previous owner didn’t gum it up with caulk it actually comes out pretty easy good luck

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When assemble the sliding windows its easiest to install the glasses first in the steel frame and glue up as a unit. The pinch welds will hold the windows untill the glue set. Will you blast and powdercoat the frames? Were those silver or black on yours?
The 79-82 were silver and the last ones were black I think.

 

[koxfarm]

No emissions on Saudi spec trucks, the 2f can actually breath and have power!

2F are nice but if I were to rebuild this troopy a camper or touring vehicle
and not a shoroom queen I would drop a 12HT and a 5sp box that will bolt straight in.
and a power steering conversion too.

 

[tls3601]

2F are nice but if I were to rebuild this troopy a camper or touring vehicle
and not a shoroom queen I would drop a 12HT and a 5sp box that will bolt straight in.
and a power steering conversion too.

I would keep it as original as possible. I would take the 2F anyday over a Toyota diesel, SPENDY and parts availability?????

 

[sloanstavern]

The roof can be a one man job although its heavy nearly about 80-100lbs. The side panels without glass are one man job easy, just need to be careful not to damage the upper w/s seal between the side and the tub. Those of the longer part stapled to the rr curve can be usually re-used.
Taking the tub off is a hoist or small crane job. Its about 400kgs at least. It is definitely advised to brace door jambs. You can cut a pipe or sqtube and bolt theB column lock to the upper door hinge on A column. I have seen some welding a brace butI think bolting is much nicer way.
Are you planning to put the tub on a rotisser?

Im planning on leaving the roof assembly in tact so I will use a hoist to remove it. I agree and will tack a brace between the dash / firewall and the tub ( in the door jamb) to prevent any movement. I think any movement is low risk but do not want to chance it.
I do not plan on using a rotisserie. I imagine a cart system of some type so I can move it and work under it as needed.

 

[sloanstavern]

When assemble the sliding windows its easiest to install the glasses first in the steel frame and glue up as a unit. The pinch welds will hold the windows untill the glue set. Will you blast and powdercoat the frames? Were those silver or black on yours?
The 79-82 were silver and the last ones were black I think.

So remove the steel frame from the roof, then install new weather stripping and glass, then glue back into the roof? That makes sense. I can not see how one could install the glass into the frame with new weatherstripping if it is locked in place, there needs to be some "give" in the frame to fit it in.
It is hard to tell on the color of the frames, they are so faded. I did not plan on any powder coating, - blast and paint only.

 

[Living in the Past]

I would drop a 12HT and a 5sp box that will bolt straight in.

Thought the motor mounts were different on the frame between the 2F and 2H on the 8/80 LWB frames. I know the L brackets for the crossmember under the transmission are different. Then adding a five speed has it own set of mods. LWB 40 series were never offered with a five speed. There is not enough room for the hand brake on the transfer case. Anything can be done but see cost going up and chances of getting your money back later is doubtful.

 

[sloanstavern]

For the first time since 1982 the troopy is topless. By removal system work and easily handed the weight unfortunately I did not Tyanne the connection point and balance it well so as soon as I got it airborne it listed badly, a real white knuckle moment but got her safely down. Life was better when I had a high school age son at home at a moments notice I could get him and his friends to help me with the heavy stuff.

I also picked up four vehicle dollies rated at 1500 pounds each they do make it a little bit easier but the thing does not roll very well and need some mechanical help. I removed the weather stripping and confirmed the paint as 464. That will be her new coat.

 

[sloanstavern]

What do you guys think, should the gas tank come off with the body or stay on the chassi During the separation

 

[koxfarm]

So remove the steel frame from the roof, then install new weather stripping and glass, then glue back into the roof? That makes sense. I can not see how one could install the glass into the frame with new weatherstripping if it is locked in place, there needs to be some "give" in the frame to fit it in.
It is hard to tell on the color of the frames, they are so faded. I did not plan on any powder coating, - blast and paint only.

Ok, so you are talking about the sliding windows new bailay channel installation. That has nothing to do with the roof.
You removed the roof (fiberglass panel) and the side panels (window panels) together. You could’ve removed the fiberglass first then the two side panels individually.
seems like the roof gasket is not in place or partially missing. That is a 2” wide U shape rubber strap running under the fiberglass toof panel. Continue above the driver and passenger doors over the upper bolt on frames until the windscreen panel.
Maybe it is sticked to the roof panel or maybe its not there.. strange.
The sliding windows installation you can check my troopy build towards the end of the thread showing a step by step the installation.

 

[koxfarm]

What do you guys think, should the gas tank come off with the body or stay on the chassi During the separation

The fuel tank is attached to the tub. You can drain and disconnect lines. Once you lift the tub off the chassis the tank will be more accessible to separate from the bottom of the tub.
if you want to remove the tank first you will have so many things in the way to lower and bring the tank out like tail shafts etc. Its easier to separate the body and the frame and then continue dismantling those individually.

 

[sloanstavern]

The fuel tank is attached to the tub. You can drain and disconnect lines. Once you lift the tub off the chassis the tank will be more accessible to separate from the bottom of the tub.
if you want to remove the tank first you will have so many things in the way to lower and bring the tank out like tail shafts etc. Its easier to separate the body and the frame and then continue dismantling those individually.

Thanks,
I left the tank on the chassis and just disconnected everything from underneath after I drained it that works slick

 

[sloanstavern]

So today I drained the gas tank and started disconnecting all the remaining items for the final separation of tub from chassis. I did weld some temporary bracing in the door jams and I’m glad I did once everything was free there was quite a bit of movement between the dash/firewall and the rest of the tub. On my first attempt to lift I did find I missed the two mounts at the rear bumper got those disconnected and everything came free nice and clear.

I got it resting on blocks about 3 inches off the chassis and that’s it for today then I’ll figure out how I’m going to separate it fully support it while I start my work

 

[sloanstavern]

Good news, got the windshield screws out without breaking a single one. I was afraid to try it but the impact wrench actually work good with the right size Phillips head bit. Ran to the store to pick up an engine hoist and saw this sweet 69FJ 45 at a local hot rod shop

 

[sloanstavern]

The pucker factor got kind a high on this one but I successfully got the tub off with no serious injury. When it was airborne I had removed everything except forgot about the transfer case shift lever. So I had to do a quick removal wildest thing was floating around other than that came up pretty safely. A quick look around the chassis and good news no sign of damage or rust all I have to replace is the front crossmember which was damaged in an accident and maybe the rear bumper just cause it’s kind of shady

 

[sloanstavern]

Got a nice package today. Love that new thermostat housing.

Does anyone know the proper routing for exhaust system?

 

[sloanstavern]

Not very glamorous, but necessary work today. Got everything south of the rear axle stripped off and the full exhaust system removed. Built a more permanent dolly for the body but I think I made it a bit too tall, did not account for blocking in bracing to level the load underneath it.

Found a funky little nest and nuts in the frame...

The more I see the more optimistic I am the frame will just need a clean up and paint

I have all of the steering components soaking and will tackle that and the engine removal next

 

[sloanstavern]

I gave my tired old back a little rest this morning and just started some cleanup. Overall it’s not too bad but there is a massive build up of oil and dirt over the transfer case and transmission. Did you know those are two separate units!!!!!!

At some points the crud was close to 3 inches thick down in the valley. I felt like an archaeologist I think it’s good enough now I can soak it in degreaser and pressure wash the whole thing when I move the chassis outside