81 BJ42 - I have to bring it home and pass inspection
- Thread starter Awl_TEQ
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Cool. Thanks. You might want to rotate that rear drag link clamp down for a little extra just in case protection.
Are you pretty pleased with the 10.50 series tire fitment on the 15X5.5's? My 82 wheels are 15X6 and I have thought about doing exactly what you are doing.
FYI, with the stock offset wheels, manual steering is not bad at all. The only time I really noticed it was out on the rocks.
Are you pretty pleased with the 10.50 series tire fitment on the 15X5.5's? My 82 wheels are 15X6 and I have thought about doing exactly what you are doing.
FYI, with the stock offset wheels, manual steering is not bad at all. The only time I really noticed it was out on the rocks.
It looks nice. I don't see any weights on your rims. Did you use stick ons? Also, do you do all that work in a 2 car garage?
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
Awl_TEQ said:
Oh my god that frame looks scary. No rust-through?
crushers
post ho
red oxide is very nice rust primer. it holds up.
been using the stuff for decades.
it is surprising what a person can turn out in a 2 car garage, eh?
been using the stuff for decades.
it is surprising what a person can turn out in a 2 car garage, eh?
Those TREs will rust too, by the way. And you might manage to rub the TRE when you have the suspension flexed, but looks like you have good clearance so far.
Looking better every post! Heated garage sounds like a good idea to get stuff done in the winter!
Looking better every post! Heated garage sounds like a good idea to get stuff done in the winter!
I'm interested in the use of primer on cast iron.
I never thought it was needed because the topcoat always adheres so well to a rough cast surface (provided its clean).
And the use of a different colour primer (to the topcoat) makes scapes/chips instantly noticeable so it's something I try to avoid (even if the primer is high quality) .
......
But I'm truly impressed with your equipment/tools and work Awl_TEQ and this should just be taken as a comment rather than a criticism (because it's really so minor).
I never thought it was needed because the topcoat always adheres so well to a rough cast surface (provided its clean).
And the use of a different colour primer (to the topcoat) makes scapes/chips instantly noticeable so it's something I try to avoid (even if the primer is high quality) .
......
But I'm truly impressed with your equipment/tools and work Awl_TEQ and this should just be taken as a comment rather than a criticism (because it's really so minor).
Awl_TEQ
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- Thread starter
- #551
Thanks Tom. All evidence to the contrary, this is not a restoration. If it was a frame off I would powder coat everything I could. As it is, I am just freshening it up. At this point I do plan a frame off for this unit at some future date. Perhaps five or more years of near-daily driving from now.
Did you bead blast the spindle? I was wondering what the best way is to treat any wear issues.
I see there is some kind of cover over the steering box and linkage. Is that unique to the BJ?
What's the width of the OME Spring?
Thanks.
I see there is some kind of cover over the steering box and linkage. Is that unique to the BJ?
What's the width of the OME Spring?
Thanks.
Awl_TEQ
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- Thread starter
- #553
So many questions!
Yes, carefully, and only where rust had pitted the surface. There was no pitting under the bearings.
Possibly. There are rubber covers with steel retainers over the shock towers that are on the diesels only. I would have thought the steering box cover was on all 40's
Same as the stock spring in width.
Yes, carefully, and only where rust had pitted the surface. There was no pitting under the bearings.
Possibly. There are rubber covers with steel retainers over the shock towers that are on the diesels only. I would have thought the steering box cover was on all 40's
Same as the stock spring in width.
Thanks! I appreciate it. You've helped me answer some questions I've had for awhile and I think you're work is great. I like threads like this where I increase my knowledge of cruisers and how to work on them. My cruiser was hit last Friday night (https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/682099-my-40-hit-tonite.html) and I'm thinking of where I want to take it at this point.
Awl_TEQ
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- Thread starter
- #556
I'm running out of mechanical stuff to fix so I will start in on the last section of welding. If you recall, I had just finished cutting away the rusty metal from the drivers floor pan when I had to go make some tailgates.
Today I had just enough time to weld in a patch right beside the "gas" pedal.
Today I had just enough time to weld in a patch right beside the "gas" pedal.
Did you patch this with one piece of sheet metal or two?
I'm trying to visualize what the patch look like before you welded it in.
Before I bought my 3/4 tub from Pilgrim I contemplated how to patch this same exact area....
just curioius.
Awl_TEQ
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- Thread starter
- #558
I took a piece of 16 Ga about 7.5" x 4" and used a mallet to bend it over the piece of solid steel round bar welded to my bench (shown below). That gave me the curve to match the corner. Then I took my grinder with a thin cutoff disc and cut a few slits halfway through the curve in order to remove material and allow me to bend it to match where the floor turns up under the pedals. You can see where I welded the slits up. They are in a fan shape with the point "pointing" at the spot where it had to bend. I also punched a few holes through the patch where I wanted to "spot weld" it to the floor to mimic the way it was originally.
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
Awl_TEQ said:
Do you mean that little heat shield? That's on LHD only.
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Seems to me you guys are talking about 2 different things here. Trucks with the exhaust manifold on the same side as the steering box (like a LHD with F or H engine fitted, or a RHD with B engine fitted) will have a heat shield fitted to the box, right? Maybe only to the power steering box - not entirely sure.
And there is also a rubber shield fitted to some trucks on the inside of the fender to protect the side of the steering box from debris kicked up in the wheelwell. Only some markets seemed to get those covers and boots, both over the shock towers and over the steering box. Some markets got a rubber pad under between the apron and the fender top, and other markets got a rubber gasket between the lower portion of the fender where it bolts to the cowl.
And there is also a rubber shield fitted to some trucks on the inside of the fender to protect the side of the steering box from debris kicked up in the wheelwell. Only some markets seemed to get those covers and boots, both over the shock towers and over the steering box. Some markets got a rubber pad under between the apron and the fender top, and other markets got a rubber gasket between the lower portion of the fender where it bolts to the cowl.
