81 BJ42 - I have to bring it home and pass inspection
- Thread starter Awl_TEQ
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Excellent design-work!
You probably know this, but please drive carefully with that weight up high like that on a short wheel-base truck.
You probably know this, but please drive carefully with that weight up high like that on a short wheel-base truck.
You think about running full length aluminum rail (1/4" or 5/16") along the sides instead of 5 pieces of steel?
I was thinking about full length aluminum for the 80 instead of the mounts I had. It makes sense to me as it would be about the same weight, support the weight evenly and tie in the cross bars better. Plus it gives you more options for mounting things on it or loop holes for tie downs.
I was thinking about making a cardboard template then drafting it up on CAD but I dont have the time or money for it this year or last.
Though obviously you've already got metal cut and the ball rolling so its probably not worth it at this point.
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
I had a similar idea, Cody. You could lean or fold it in to lower the profile to trees as well as give more clearance for an awning ( which are tree magnets) We should brainstorm at next week's club meeting.
I wonder why everyone makes gutter mounts plumb. Why not lean them in a bit?
Awl_TEQ
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- #527
Because gravity is plumb I guess. KISS too, I suppose. I thought about making the upper two parts in one piece but ended up not re-inventing the wheel. My chief concern was protecting the fiberglass and the gutter so I wanted a solid attachment there and then bracketed off the clamp to the crossbars.
I could design up something real snazzy but this will get the tent out of the livingroom at least.
I could design up something real snazzy but this will get the tent out of the livingroom at least.
Thats what I was thinking as well. For the rack I've been using, its got aluminum unistrut which I see K, IV has in steel for his picture, but I think with full length runners, and some square tube welded onto the long runners at around 70 degrees or so, so the strut (or square tube if you prefer) cross sections slide in. With the unistrut you can obviously just attach it with spring nuts with a couple holes drilled into the square tube welded to the runners.
For those that dont know, unistrut is used for supporting electrical trays and equipment, but has a catalogue of other items and fittings which can be easily attached and removed. They even have receptacle boxes that can be dropped in to the channel now for indoor locations.
You thinking about something for your 80 as well?
We'll ponder it at the next meeting, I think Rick's been thinking about a rack and RTT as well.
Those bolts are shiny kevin, so clean in fact I dont know that those axles will pass inspection with the surface rust on them in contrast to the u-bolts :b
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Awl_TEQ
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- #533
Got everything done today except for the rear output seal on the transfer. Had a minor glitch on the front pinion seal. Kinda funny actually. I took off the drive flange and with my mind still on the painting of the steering pivot I got spooked by the "loose" pinion shaft. Temporarily lost focus and thought I had bad bearings.
Luckily a fellow RMLCA member reminded me how the assembly worked before I started pulling the shafts out. Tapped in the new seal and re-torqued the new nut.
Luckily a fellow RMLCA member reminded me how the assembly worked before I started pulling the shafts out. Tapped in the new seal and re-torqued the new nut.
Very nice work. What is that orange primer? Everything you are doing on this thread seems to be where my '82 FJ40 is. Thanks for posting everything up.
thetoyotaman said:
Red oxide primer I think.
It just resists corrosion better than generic stuff I would assume.
I am curious if the tires and suspension rub on the drag link at all? That's assuming the steering stops are set to factory. I'm having this issue with my Q78's and stock rims with the 4 inch NHK springs.
Also, is the spring width on the OMEs the same as stock? My NHK's are narrower than stock. Thanks again.
Also, is the spring width on the OMEs the same as stock? My NHK's are narrower than stock. Thanks again.
This summer I built some Mudflap brackets and painted them with self etching primer out of a rattle can and I can't believe how much better it is holding up than my past experiences with regular primer. I don't know if it will work well on metal that may have slight rust though.
