@landtank makes 4" castor plates that work with your suspension. In fact, Rick has the same springs as you and doesn't have any contact on his rig. Might be easier than messing with 1 ton stuff... unless you are looking for an excuse to upgrade.
80s with 35's - 37's suspension question
- Thread starter Cass007
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- 37s dobinsons suspension lift
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@landtank makes 4" castor plates that work with your suspension. In fact, Rick has the same springs as you and doesn't have any contact on his rig. Might be easier than messing with 1 ton stuff... unless you are looking for an excuse to upgrade.
Yeah I got looking at their stuff the other day, problem is I already have a RHD arm and I'm looking to do hydro assist and a 3 link in the future, and for the cost of plates I can get the DOM and everything to go ahead and do this.
Just grind them, you won't have to take as much off as you think.
Different brands of caster plates have different amounts of castor by design. Sounds like you and the OP have too much. Dont get overly concerned with needing 4 degrees of castor for good steering. Many of us are very happy with 2 degrees.
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- #27
Looks like I'm at 3.2*-3.4* castor according to my printout. Trading emails with David Otero @Dobinsons to make sure the bushings are in correctly. I will try to get a measure of clearance on level ground today.
@JHB Cruising - other than this issue I'm dealing with it seems great so far. The ride is very much like stock. The trails will tell the real story though. I'm sure this will get sorted, just a matter of how much time and money it will require.
The biggest nagging issue is still this exhaust and the slider on pass side. It's making all kinds of LOUD and nasty noises. Sometimes it hits a certain rpm and resonance and it makes a very loud, high pitched whistle. Plus, now after the lift it's hitting the frame where it goes over near the rear axle, so there is a really embarrassing rattle as well. Not sure if people stare because of how gaudy the truck is or because it sounds like parts are falling off. I might just pull the slider off tonight and get it to @jamarquardt22 to cut it up and make it clear things correctly.
@JHB Cruising - other than this issue I'm dealing with it seems great so far. The ride is very much like stock. The trails will tell the real story though. I'm sure this will get sorted, just a matter of how much time and money it will require.
The biggest nagging issue is still this exhaust and the slider on pass side. It's making all kinds of LOUD and nasty noises. Sometimes it hits a certain rpm and resonance and it makes a very loud, high pitched whistle. Plus, now after the lift it's hitting the frame where it goes over near the rear axle, so there is a really embarrassing rattle as well. Not sure if people stare because of how gaudy the truck is or because it sounds like parts are falling off. I might just pull the slider off tonight and get it to @jamarquardt22 to cut it up and make it clear things correctly.
The only correct way to dial in pinion angle and proper castor with taller lifts is high steer and cutting and turning the knuckle balls independently of the differential.
Until then, my set up is working ok.
I love them
I fell off that edge into the cavernous pit a long time ago.
I only have a 2 inch ome lift but I used 3 degree trunion bearings to get my caster two 2 degrees. Even this made my heavy duty steering arms rub on my radius arm. Just grind it and call it good. Plenty of people have ground their arms without issues.
Grind the control arms and move on
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- #34
So as I prepare to grind the arms this weekend I have another question, especially for @baldilocks, but for any that can offer insight as well. My extended bump stops in the front are hitting the coils. I plan to install the SuperPro bushings in the rear of the control arms to push the arm and axle forward a bit, but do the bump stops look correct or do I have an extra piece installed that will limit my up travel too much?
![20181009_174357[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20181009_174357-1-webp.1807561/ "20181009_174357[1].webp")
It is hitting on the front side. The pic shows where it is rubbing (binding). Should there be more travel than that?
![20181009_174348[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20181009_174348-1-webp.1807564/ "20181009_174348[1].webp")
It is hitting on the front side. The pic shows where it is rubbing (binding). Should there be more travel than that?
Another option ( I haven't done it personally since I don't have clearance issues) that I know @AutoCraft Aus has used many times in Australia to to bend the steering arm. It only takes a few millimeters. The arms are forged and won't be compromised. Darren says they strap the axles down on a lift and use a bottle jack to push the arm at the rod end up. Only takes a small amount of deflection to give enough clearance and won't require grinding the arms.
Up to you, I know there are a lot who have just clearanced the radius arms, but that's one more option if you're looking for something else.
Up to you, I know there are a lot who have just clearanced the radius arms, but that's one more option if you're looking for something else.
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- #36
Thanks @Box Rocket ... I will clearance them for now since I have to remove them to put in the bushings. I see HellFire and 3-link in the future, but I just want to get it on the trails now and see what breaks. Since the sliders went on it's been chasing gremlins.
Think the primary cat is bad. It rattles when hot and I hate it. Secondary cat was hitting the slider ... removed it and had a test pipe welded in. So far no CEL so WIN. When the truck was on the lift for that the steering wheel somehow got way jacked up and now 12 o'clock is ~8 o'clock.
Biggest issues right now are the axle sitting too far back and causing the bump stops to contact the coils (not sure if the bump stops are extended too far or not) and there is a drive-line vibration that is speed related and sounds like something is thumping. Trying to get the truck in the air to check that, but the old jack isn't tall enough to get the axle on top of the new 12-ton jack stands I bought to reach the frame ... hole meet rabbit.
Think the primary cat is bad. It rattles when hot and I hate it. Secondary cat was hitting the slider ... removed it and had a test pipe welded in. So far no CEL so WIN. When the truck was on the lift for that the steering wheel somehow got way jacked up and now 12 o'clock is ~8 o'clock.
Biggest issues right now are the axle sitting too far back and causing the bump stops to contact the coils (not sure if the bump stops are extended too far or not) and there is a drive-line vibration that is speed related and sounds like something is thumping. Trying to get the truck in the air to check that, but the old jack isn't tall enough to get the axle on top of the new 12-ton jack stands I bought to reach the frame ... hole meet rabbit.
What size tire are going to run? How much of a bump drop have you already installed?
To run true 37” tires I dropped the bumps 2.5” and had to cut off the “bell” shaped portion of the stock set up. My tapered coils will drop enough to cause some minor contact still, but it’s not worth fussing over like before I cut the “bell” off.
My front arms are bone stock.
Did a 4" lift on a Gwagon, since custom radius arms cost nearly $3k, here was my solution. It fixed 4 degrees of caster and completely fixed scary wandering over speeds of 50mph.
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- #39
I'm running KM2 37s ... so not a true 37, but close. David @Dobinsons recommended a 3" bump drop and I had new bump stops installed. Mine are hitting almost all the time, even on small pavement transitions and driveway curbing and speed bumps.
What is the "bell shaped portion"? Are you running the Dobi castor plates as well?
2.5” is enough. Mine are close but that extra 1/2” on yours is a big part of problem.
The stock rubber puck is recessed partially in side a metal cup that flares out like a bell at the bottom.
I don’t know your back spacing but I run 1” wheel space with stock wheels and 37” SS trxus and the 2.5” bump drops. My tires never rub under any circunstances by come very close.
The stock rubber puck is recessed partially in side a metal cup that flares out like a bell at the bottom.
I don’t know your back spacing but I run 1” wheel space with stock wheels and 37” SS trxus and the 2.5” bump drops. My tires never rub under any circunstances by come very close.